Can you guess what......

[v8s4me]

...this collection of odds & sods is for?



Here's a clue...



Got it yet? No?....



Of course! Obvious! But does it work?





Of course it does

Sometimes I amaze even myself

Many thanks to Tinks and Glen for enabling me to have this little bit of fun

[Kitchski]

See I wouldn't have bothered testing that, I'd have spotted it leaking while still fitted to the car

[Oldred_V8S]

I think it needs a recore Joe.

[glenrobbo]

Now I know why Tinks had it in his garden for two years.
It's a lawn sprinkler!

[Top Gear TVR]

chewing gum & bravery?

[v8s4me]

How about a blow lamp and a blob of solder?



Holding at 20psi. Not pretty, but pretty effective...

Don't you just love Old School?

[steve j]

Another old school repair, mix some araldite, heat it in a pan until it`s very runny. Cover one side of the rad leak with tape and pour araldide over the leak, it settles on the tape and blocks the leak, simples

[glenrobbo]

steve j said:

Another old school repair, mix some araldite, heat it in a pan until it`s very runny. Cover one side of the rad leak with tape and pour araldide over the leak, it settles on the tape and blocks the leak, simples

Yes Steve, but how do you clean the pan?

[v8s4me]

Maybe it's a non-stick pan?

[v8s4me]

And another bit of Old School Bodgery...



The original bodge covered the hole for the otter switch boss with a 1978 2p piece. What an amateur! As of course as we all know, decimal coins are (a) too small and (b) have too low a copper content for a permanent repair. A 1920 George V old penny does the job much more effectively.

Apart from a bit of blobby solder, well I didn't want to un-solder the top hose neck so I left cold water in the rad, job done! Or at least sorted until someone can do it properly.

While I was there I helped fit these....



Does anyone know how the fit the servo take-off to this manifold? I assume one of the cast bosses has to be drilled and tapped for a suitable adapter?

So now we have it running well, it might be nice if it stopped as well

Old School rules, OK

[magpies]

you will need to drill all 4 inlet tracts and join them to end up with one hose to the servo

[sonnylad]

Joe is now officialy to be known as the Radman.

Many thanks again for your help today Joe.

Russ

[v8s4me]

magpies said:

..you will need to drill all 4 inlet tracts and join them to end up with one hose to the servo

I thought the 4 hole drilling to the inlet tracts was for the vacuum advance to stop "pulsing". Do we need this for a servo as well?

[Oldred_V8S]

v8s4me said:

And another bit of Old School Bodgery...



The original bodge covered the hole for the otter switch boss with a 1978 2p piece. What an amateur! As of course as we all know, decimal coins are (a) too small and (b) have too low a copper content for a permanent repair. A 1920 George V old penny does the job much more effectively.


Old School rules, OK

Joe are you also anti-decimalisation as well now? A bit late to include this in one of your famous rants.

[v8s4me]

Oldred_V8S said:

...Joe are you also anti-decimalisation as well now? .....

Only for covering big holes in radiators

[magpies]

v8s4me said:

magpies said:

..you will need to drill all 4 inlet tracts and join them to end up with one hose to the servo

I thought the 4 hole drilling to the inlet tracts was for the vacuum advance to stop "pulsing". Do we need this for a servo as well?

any vacuum usage needs to be from all tracts as otherwise the fuel charge will differ in the cylinders

so yes both distributer and servo should connect to all tracts (in reality you would join 4 into 2 into 1

and take from the 1 to both dissy and servo (not necessary both to be the same dia - larger to servo)

[v8s4me]

Sorry if I'm being thick here, but....

Q. when does the servo need vacuum? A. when the engine is on the over-run.
Q. are the butterflies open or closed at this time? A. closed.
Q. so why does it matter if the mixture is affected at this time? A. ?
Q. if the servo is working on a vacuum where does the air to weaken the mixture on that cylinder come from? A. ?

Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 27th September 12:33

[DamianS3]

v8s4me said:

Sorry if I'm being thick here, but....

Q. when does the servo need vacuum? A. when the engine is on the over-run. (Left foot brake.. No can't guarantee this..)
Q. are the butterflies open or closed at this time? A. closed. (See above..)
Q. so why does it matter if the mixture is affected at this time? A. ?
Q. if the servo is working on a vacuum where does the air to weaken the mixture on that cylinder come from? A. ?

Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 27th September 12:33

I would have thought the t to all 4 would also generate a greater vacuumed than just one.? Could be wrong here.. IMHO from all 4 would be the correct way to go..

Damian S3

[v8s4me]

DamianS3 said:

..I would have thought the t to all 4 would also generate a greater vacuumed than just one.? ...

Probably, but how much vacuum do you need to make a servo work effectively?

[magpies]

The vacuum hose to dissy will be about 4mm internal dia, whereas the servo will be about 12mm. The servo hose will have a non-return (check) valve, so does not loose its vacuum through the engine when not on overrun - only through the use of the brakes. The dissy uses the change in vacuum to move the advance/retard mechanism and so does not need or want a check valve.

If you go too small a servo hose then you may at some point not have servo assistance - have you ever tried the brakes without servo - take a big push!!