Winter Projects
Discussion
It wasn't on the original list but I can't put it off any longer. I've made a start on cleaning all the muck off the trailing arms.What a filthy job!
So far so good; just surface rust under the layers of Waxoyl and road dirt. The old powder coat finish is just lifting off so it's just as well there was plenty of the sticky black stuff on top to keep the worst of the wet out. I can't help thinking that painting just has to be a better option for a full chassis refurb.
Lots of tins of red Hammerite on the shopping list now
So far so good; just surface rust under the layers of Waxoyl and road dirt. The old powder coat finish is just lifting off so it's just as well there was plenty of the sticky black stuff on top to keep the worst of the wet out. I can't help thinking that painting just has to be a better option for a full chassis refurb.
Lots of tins of red Hammerite on the shopping list now
Bit of an improvement 
Fingers crossed the other side will be as sound as this was. I have to say, Waxoyl does seem to be very effective. Underneath a thick coat of the stuff the powder coating had cracked and lifted but mostly all there was, was surface rust and minor pitting. It looks like the Waxoyl does what is says on the tin. Filthy stuff to get off and clean up though. Two weeks off now and then onto the other side.
Fingers crossed the other side will be as sound as this was. I have to say, Waxoyl does seem to be very effective. Underneath a thick coat of the stuff the powder coating had cracked and lifted but mostly all there was, was surface rust and minor pitting. It looks like the Waxoyl does what is says on the tin. Filthy stuff to get off and clean up though. Two weeks off now and then onto the other side.
I was thinking of doing a similar thing Joe - mines got a layer of fine waxoyl in situ. Whilst it protects, it also picks up all the s
t known to mankind. Was thinking of going down the painted route, but is there an easy way to give a replacement fine film mist for waxoyl as a home enthusiast, rather than the gobs of stuff that come out of a spray can and look awful?
t known to mankind. Was thinking of going down the painted route, but is there an easy way to give a replacement fine film mist for waxoyl as a home enthusiast, rather than the gobs of stuff that come out of a spray can and look awful?In the past I've used cheap plant sprays because you can only use them a couple of times before they clog up and have to be thrown away. I leave the Waxoyl tin in a bowl of very hot water until it thins enough to spray. I wasn't too worried about the finish as I was putting it on areas which were out of sight and where protection was more important than asthetics. Thick and globby keeps the water out
Used ACF-50 on the GGP I fitted to the Reserve. Been through some mucky weather recently and the threads and adjusters are still clean and easy to use.
Was recommended to me by someone who uses it on motocross bikes.
As for the suspension arms, I'll update Samy's thread in a couple of weeks.
Was recommended to me by someone who uses it on motocross bikes.
As for the suspension arms, I'll update Samy's thread in a couple of weeks.
And it was all going so well......
The other one was fine so I had my fingers crossed this one would be solid as well. Bugger!
So...how hard is it to get this off and what is the best sequence to do the job?
Does anyone know the best way to get hold of Adrian Venn?
I suppose I may as well do the rear brake upgrade now seeing as I'm going to have to take the hub off.
The other one was fine so I had my fingers crossed this one would be solid as well. Bugger!
So...how hard is it to get this off and what is the best sequence to do the job?
Does anyone know the best way to get hold of Adrian Venn?
I suppose I may as well do the rear brake upgrade now seeing as I'm going to have to take the hub off.
v8s4me said:
Does anyone know the best way to get hold of Adrian Venn?
I'd try his Face Book pagev8s4me said:
I suppose I may as well do the rear brake upgrade now seeing as I'm going to have to take the hub off.
Not really understanding what you'll gain from a few millimetres extra diameter? If the bias valve is doing its job you shouldn't be getting 100% from what you have ?If you're going to do anything go vented
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 29th November 19:35
I've got hold of Adrian and got a price for the job. Now to get the bugger off..I got the drive shaft nut off thanks to the loan of an impact thingy and a big socket...
I've loosened the nut on the pivot bolt thanks to brute force...
... but although the bolt turns in the bush, I can't budge it to get it out. I've been thumping the end on the nut with the biggest hammer I can get in there but the bolt won't move. Any suggestions?
In case anyone is wondering why I didn't strip off the brake/hub etc first I wanted to make it easily driveable in case I ran into trouble and had to give up and take it in somewhere. Once I've got the pivot bolt to move I'll know I'm on my way to getting it all apart.
I've loosened the nut on the pivot bolt thanks to brute force...
... but although the bolt turns in the bush, I can't budge it to get it out. I've been thumping the end on the nut with the biggest hammer I can get in there but the bolt won't move. Any suggestions?
In case anyone is wondering why I didn't strip off the brake/hub etc first I wanted to make it easily driveable in case I ran into trouble and had to give up and take it in somewhere. Once I've got the pivot bolt to move I'll know I'm on my way to getting it all apart.
does this help in any way ..... ? Trailing Arm Removal and plenty of WD40 also helped in my case.
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