Winter Projects
Discussion
v8s4me said:
Mick - it looks like you've replaced the rubber pipes with stainless but kept the copper length along the box section of the trailing arm. Is that the way to do it? Can I use stainless flexible all the way from the copper at the chassis bracket to the caliper?
I only used short st st braided on the rear because I had them spare along with a roll of cunifer pipe. By the time I needed to pipe up the front I used mainly braided and the whole clutch line is braided. There is no problem in using braided for the whole system - most rally/circuit cars are done that way.
The trailing arm went off to Adrian Venn last week and since then I've spent every evening scraping, rubbing and picking off layers of old Waxoyl and powder coat. Underneath it all though thing seem pretty sound with just a layer of mainly surface rust.
The Kurust is drying now and tomorrow I'll painting it all.
Of course this is only putting off the day when I'll do the inevitable body-off chassis refurb, but it's reassuring to know these vulnerable bits are in good shape for a while yet. Somehow I don't think I'll be using powder coat though. Where it is still attached to the chassis, it is a tough and bright as the day it left factory, but it's all to easy to see how it has just lifted off like bits of old paper where moisture has got in and spread under the surface of the coating. Thank goodness Waxoyl does what is says on the tin, or this would be a dam sight worse than surface rust. It might be horrible to work with but I think it is brilliant at what it does. When I eventually do the chassis I think it will be painted.
The Kurust is drying now and tomorrow I'll painting it all.
Of course this is only putting off the day when I'll do the inevitable body-off chassis refurb, but it's reassuring to know these vulnerable bits are in good shape for a while yet. Somehow I don't think I'll be using powder coat though. Where it is still attached to the chassis, it is a tough and bright as the day it left factory, but it's all to easy to see how it has just lifted off like bits of old paper where moisture has got in and spread under the surface of the coating. Thank goodness Waxoyl does what is says on the tin, or this would be a dam sight worse than surface rust. It might be horrible to work with but I think it is brilliant at what it does. When I eventually do the chassis I think it will be painted.
For the sake of one bolt why not get the shocker right out of your way?
Have you tried removing the trailing arm bracket, suspect bolt will be seized but should you be lucky and it comes out would make re-assembly easier.
Have fun with the paint, up your arms, in your hair ....... or perhaps I'm just a messy bugger
phillpot said:
...For the sake of one bolt why not get the shocker right out of your way?...
You're right, I should do. But that was the nut which took over an hour to get off and then almost as long to put back on due to the gap between the top of the suspension mount and the body being a knats pube smaller than the thickness of the nut.phillpot said:
...Have you tried removing the trailing arm bracket, suspect bolt will be seized but should you be lucky and it comes out would make re-assembly easier....
No way! after the struggle with the outer one I'm leaving well alone. I tried to get a turn on it and it wouldn't budge so if I ripped out the steel bush, like I did with the outer one, I'd have no choice but to cut it out. The access is worse than the outer one, so I didn't fancy trying to get the angle grinder in there. The bush looks fine so if it aint broke, don't fix it 
v8s4me said:
Of course this is only putting off the day when I'll do the inevitable body-off chassis refurb, but it's reassuring to know these vulnerable bits are in good shape for a while yet. Somehow I don't think I'll be using powder coat though. Where it is still attached to the chassis, it is a tough and bright as the day it left factory, but it's all to easy to see how it has just lifted off like bits of old paper where moisture has got in and spread under the surface of the coating. Thank goodness Waxoyl does what is says on the tin, or this would be a dam sight worse than surface rust. It might be horrible to work with but I think it is brilliant at what it does. When I eventually do the chassis I think it will be painted.
I was speaking to Richard Kitchen about this a couple of weeks ago. Powdercoat is hard wearing but once it gets chipped the moisture gets in and it will crack further, whereas two-pack paint will just chip and can be touched in. Apparently it is almost impossible to extend a chip by picking at it. phillpot said:
...For the sake of one bolt why not get the shocker right out of your way?
I hope I'm not going to regret this...
This is possibly the perfect tool for removing old paint, rust, flaky powder coat etc from tubular sections of chassis...
It's wire saw as sold in camping shops. You can hook it around the tube and pull it up and down the length of tube getting at all the inaccessible bits. Blue Peter Badge to me I think
v8s4me said:
the gap between the top of the suspension mount and the body being a knats pube smaller than the thickness of the nut.
So if the bolt is coming through far enough to catch on the "nylok" bit of the nut it must be digging into the fibreglass? Time for a thinner nut (hacksaw) and shorter bolt me thinks Nice trick with the wire saw, although why anyone would want to attack a tent with one I have no idea?
Edited by phillpot on Saturday 12th December 14:23
A great idea! As long as you don't go chopping your chassis into neat 6" long sections Joe!
If you do, I suppose you can make lots of toilet roll holders out of the tubular bits...... 
In a previous existence, I have used abrasive silicon carbide wire "files" which would be less harsh but just as effective in removing old flaking powdercoat.
If you do, I suppose you can make lots of toilet roll holders out of the tubular bits...... In a previous existence, I have used abrasive silicon carbide wire "files" which would be less harsh but just as effective in removing old flaking powdercoat.
Hi All
Now the body is ready to go back on and the painter is starting over Christmas, my winter project is upholstery, hoping to get to Trim Unique with the seats and door cards next week, or at least before the new year. Have some carpet arriving this week to do the inside (never done it so hope it turns out ok).
Alan
Alan
Now the body is ready to go back on and the painter is starting over Christmas, my winter project is upholstery, hoping to get to Trim Unique with the seats and door cards next week, or at least before the new year. Have some carpet arriving this week to do the inside (never done it so hope it turns out ok).
Alan
Alan
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