Battery relocation..

Battery relocation..

Author
Discussion

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
quotequote all
tel595 said:
Where about does your live cable enter the engine bay, does it pass through a hole in the bulkhead?
It does Terry, I used a cable gland to get a water tight seal.







Wide open hinges were sort of "made as you go" so I have no drawings or measurements but could come up with a photo or two if it helps?

Mr Plow

1,193 posts

228 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
quotequote all
Use a racing battery, a lot smaller and lighter.

Liam

v8s4me

7,240 posts

219 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Is this a crankcase breather & catch tank?

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
Is this a crankcase breather & catch tank?
Yep.

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

172 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all

Wide open hinges were sort of "made as you go" so I have no drawings or measurements but could come up with a photo or two if it helps?
[/quote]

Any photos would be great help Mike. I can work out the dimensions, just fishing for ideas at the moment.. Thanks.

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

172 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all
Mr Plow said:
Use a racing battery, a lot smaller and lighter.

Liam
Just bought a new 'full size' jobby Liam... I looked at the small race type batteries at Race Retro earlier this year, but was told they weren't legal on road cars..??

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

172 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
tel595 said:
Where about does your live cable enter the engine bay, does it pass through a hole in the bulkhead?
It does Terry, I used a cable gland to get a water tight seal.







Wide open hinges were sort of "made as you go" so I have no drawings or measurements but could come up with a photo or two if it helps?
Another question.. 50mm or 70mm csa cable? cheers, T


mk1fan

10,516 posts

225 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all
Plenty of guys have race batteries fitted. Not seen a post about MOT or legal issues.

Wide open details here. Read on though as one of the dims is corrected later.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all
tel595 said:
Another question.. 50mm or 70mm csa cable? cheers, T
The red in the picture is the original, once inside the void to the left of the footwell it is joined to a length of 35mm, stripped from some 5 core HO7 that was a short scrap length from where I used to work.
Of course the modern 3 phase colours don't include red, I used the brown core.


I know some advise going for "monster size cable" to compensate for volt drop with the extra length but unless you have a sh*t engine that needs cranking for hours before it starts I reckon it's plenty big enough wink


Edited by phillpot on Sunday 4th October 17:50

Buzzlt

239 posts

165 months

Monday 5th October 2015
quotequote all
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details...

Made for the job !

Just don't get any cheap aluminium ones.

A cheaper option would be to go into any electrical store and buy some meter tails which you can buy by the meter in brown or blue (double insulated in grey) Expect 25mm would do but 35mm would be better although not so readily available. Any electrical factors will be able to order it in if they don't have it off the shelf.

25mm is about £3.50 a metre.

Cheers Greg

Buzzlt

239 posts

165 months

Monday 5th October 2015
quotequote all
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details...

Made for the job !

Just don't get any cheap aluminium ones.

A cheaper option would be to go into any electrical store and buy some meter tails which you can buy by the meter in brown or blue (double insulated in grey) Expect 25mm would do but 35mm would be better although not so readily available. Any electrical factors will be able to order it in if they don't have it off the shelf.

25mm is about £3.50 a metre.

Cheers Greg

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

172 months

Monday 5th October 2015
quotequote all
Cheers bough...

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Monday 5th October 2015
quotequote all



Probably just as important as cable size is to get the connections properly crimped or soldered on, a poor joint will create equally as much resistance as a thin cable scratchchin


This could be the way to go?


I can see no need for double insulated unless you intend running rear to front under the car, zip tied to the chassis?

Alan461

853 posts

131 months

Monday 5th October 2015
quotequote all
Or check out your local welding supplier, I just got 20 metres of 35mm for not many beer tokens, they also have very robust terminal connections available.
While I believe this part of the build needs to be 100% when I did mine it was done in haste as there were more interesting projects on the go, I short changed it and did a quick fix with 16mm clipped to the main chassis rail from the boot to the starter, this has been fine so 35 will be more than adequate.
on the ramps soon to swap it for 35 just to be sure

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

172 months

Tuesday 6th October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Probably just as important as cable size is to get the connections properly crimped or soldered on, a poor joint will create equally as much resistance as a thin cable scratchchin


This could be the way to go?


I can see no need for double insulated unless you intend running rear to front under the car, zip tied to the chassis?
Yep, I agree with the connections/terminals Mike. I'll make sure they're soldered on correctly as I think that's the best way. I'm going to try and run it inside the car as similar to your suggestion as possible, it's pretty straightforward and It's better protected in the car. I've got no interior in at the moment so it's the ideal opportunity.. Getting the cables tomorrow so I'll let you now how I get on.. biggrin

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Tuesday 6th October 2015
quotequote all
Found some photo's........

It's all coming back to me now, built into that lump of wood is a length of M8 "allthread" bent into a sort of U shape to give two threads that poke through the boot floor to secure it all.












tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

172 months

Tuesday 6th October 2015
quotequote all
Great woodworking skills Mike. That's a nice neat job..

Any pics of the bonnet hinge mods? I'd like to do a bit of marking out before I take the bonnet off. Probably won't make a great deal of difference..

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Wednesday 7th October 2015
quotequote all
tel595 said:
Any pics of the bonnet hinge mods?
Not brilliant but found these in the "library" .....


All done with no cutting or welding of the chassis










magpies

5,129 posts

182 months

Wednesday 7th October 2015
quotequote all
this is my low tech version (but requires welding) could take the best of both and make something like mine but bolt it to the chassis





but essentially it can be mad and fitted while the bonnet is still connected using the original hinges once a section of the lower return face of the bonnet has been removed otherwise it will hit the chassis when raising.

Edited by magpies on Wednesday 7th October 20:31

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Wednesday 7th October 2015
quotequote all
magpies said:
this is my low tech version (but requires welding) could take the best of both and make something like mine but bolt it to the chassis
phillpot said:
could take the best of both and make something like mine but weld it to the chassis
wink