at the end of my tether with my 'S'
Discussion
......
QBee said:
the ECU......assuming it has one.
2.8 with mechanical injection so no ECU but as has been suggested undo whatever you've done, put everything back exactly as it was when you got the car (working fine) from the garage and see if it sorts it?If winding a pair of shockers up is baffling you maybe messing with anything under the bonnet is not too good an idea
Will try doing that yeah, all I've done is replaced the air intake duct tho, straight swapover so its baffled me abit. But I haven't tested the car since I got it back really (mainly because suspension so low I fear I'll tear off my new exhausts)
yeah maybe I should stick to just interior styling from now on, I do know how to adjust the shocks now but my driveways on a slant & I have no jack or Axel stands
yeah maybe I should stick to just interior styling from now on, I do know how to adjust the shocks now but my driveways on a slant & I have no jack or Axel standsEdited by greyhulk on Sunday 27th December 14:08
Hi Steve, sorry to hear that but you should be able to think it through. The main problem you had was the air/fuel mixture going wildly out as a result of a split in part of the air ducting from the air valve to the throttle. You have now changed another part of that same air ducting. Somehow that has changed the mixture, you now need to think that through. It seems to me that it can only alter the mixture if you have created an air leak that wasnt there before OR you have removed an air leak that WAS there before. Could be a fault in one or the other tube, or a fault where the tube seals at one end of the other.
Do you know how to use a bit of piping as a 'stethoscope' to 'listen' for the slight noise of an air leak? Have you got a bit of pipe (length of garden hose will do)? put an ear plug in one ear and the hose to the other ear and place the open end of the hose close to each joint and section of the the air duct and listen for a change in noise, a gentle hiss which changes with revs. Listen all round the air valve cover (there is a rubber gasket to the air valve body which can get distorted) even listen round the throttle assembly for aid leaks. This simple 'stethoscope' is remarkably sensitive (if your hearing is OK!). Clamp a metal rod in the end and touch parts of the engine and you will be amazed how much you will hear; an easy way to locate which cylinder has a loose tappet for example.
Alternatively, when you have been changing the air duct have you have accidentally disturbed something else, have a look round to make sure you havent dislodged or broken a connection to one of the sensors at the front of the plenum chamber for example.
(Why do I still have that feeling there is an intermittent, possibly heat related, problem with the ignition module AS WELL as the original air duct problem? Wish I lived closer!)
Do you know how to use a bit of piping as a 'stethoscope' to 'listen' for the slight noise of an air leak? Have you got a bit of pipe (length of garden hose will do)? put an ear plug in one ear and the hose to the other ear and place the open end of the hose close to each joint and section of the the air duct and listen for a change in noise, a gentle hiss which changes with revs. Listen all round the air valve cover (there is a rubber gasket to the air valve body which can get distorted) even listen round the throttle assembly for aid leaks. This simple 'stethoscope' is remarkably sensitive (if your hearing is OK!). Clamp a metal rod in the end and touch parts of the engine and you will be amazed how much you will hear; an easy way to locate which cylinder has a loose tappet for example.
Alternatively, when you have been changing the air duct have you have accidentally disturbed something else, have a look round to make sure you havent dislodged or broken a connection to one of the sensors at the front of the plenum chamber for example.
(Why do I still have that feeling there is an intermittent, possibly heat related, problem with the ignition module AS WELL as the original air duct problem? Wish I lived closer!)
Hi richard, Alan has just been round to take a look, he checked the distributor cap, all the points were covered in a greenish/blue substance & was filthy, cleaned it up & it has ran fine for a good 30-40minutes & never cut out once. He also pointed out its not the original coil pack in so thats one less thing to worry about.
I guess i should just hit the roads & test it to see but it WAS cutting out just idling on my driveway before which it isn't now, hopefully this may have been the issue & now resolved.
I was carefull when changing over the air intake hose not to disturb the airflow meter cap etc, was just a straight swapover with some new stainless steel jubilee clips.
There was also 2 jubilee clips missing off this hose & a small split in it, not sure which size, ill have to go out an measure it up, but when it was worked loose it suddenly cut the engine out so it may or may not be letting excess air in also?
I guess i should just hit the roads & test it to see but it WAS cutting out just idling on my driveway before which it isn't now, hopefully this may have been the issue & now resolved.
I was carefull when changing over the air intake hose not to disturb the airflow meter cap etc, was just a straight swapover with some new stainless steel jubilee clips.
There was also 2 jubilee clips missing off this hose & a small split in it, not sure which size, ill have to go out an measure it up, but when it was worked loose it suddenly cut the engine out so it may or may not be letting excess air in also?
Edited by greyhulk on Monday 28th December 13:08
That is the vacuum pipe to the brake servo. You have to treat it as part of the air induction system. Have a think about it: the air comes in through the filter and air control valve, along the air duct and through the throttle into the plenum chamber (the large alloy box above the engine)and from there it goes into the inlet tubes to the engine itself. More correctly, the engine SUCKS in air through that route. Any leaks anywhere along that route will affect the way the engine runs because any leak will reduce the amount of air the engine 'sucks' through the correct route through the air induction system.
The pipe you show is connected directly to the plenum chamber. Take that pipe off and the engine will suck air through the hole rather than the induction system. Less air through the induction system tells the air control valve to reduce the fuel to the injectors and the engine runs dramatically weak and stalls.
Any leak in that pipe will have the same effect to a degree dependent on the size of the leak.
Not only will any leak in that pipe have a dramatic effect on mixture it will also affect the performance of the brake servo, potentially dangerously so. If the pipe came off or split badly you would lose servo effect completely.
That pipe is a special piece of pipe with a thick wall to make sure the tube doesnt get sucked flat when vacuum is at its highest. Dont be tempted to use any old pipe, it must be brake servo pipe. It must be a good secure fit at both ends. However, perhaps surprisingly, a pipe which fits with a good seal is much more important that one tightly clamped on. Remember that unlike a water pipe it is subject to vacuum not pressure. Vacuum pipes are commonly a good push fit rather than tightly clamped on.
Does that all make sense?
The pipe you show is connected directly to the plenum chamber. Take that pipe off and the engine will suck air through the hole rather than the induction system. Less air through the induction system tells the air control valve to reduce the fuel to the injectors and the engine runs dramatically weak and stalls.
Any leak in that pipe will have the same effect to a degree dependent on the size of the leak.
Not only will any leak in that pipe have a dramatic effect on mixture it will also affect the performance of the brake servo, potentially dangerously so. If the pipe came off or split badly you would lose servo effect completely.
That pipe is a special piece of pipe with a thick wall to make sure the tube doesnt get sucked flat when vacuum is at its highest. Dont be tempted to use any old pipe, it must be brake servo pipe. It must be a good secure fit at both ends. However, perhaps surprisingly, a pipe which fits with a good seal is much more important that one tightly clamped on. Remember that unlike a water pipe it is subject to vacuum not pressure. Vacuum pipes are commonly a good push fit rather than tightly clamped on.
Does that all make sense?
Thank you as always Richard, a wealth of knowledge! I wasent aware a tiny split in it or loose fit could cause an effect like that, ive already gone & ordered a replacememt but I think I may have ordered the wrong blooming type of hose from autosiliconhoses website
'1 Ply Silicone Hose' i take it a 'vacuum hose' is what I needed?
'1 Ply Silicone Hose' i take it a 'vacuum hose' is what I needed?
Edited by greyhulk on Monday 28th December 21:04
greyhulk said:
..... Alan has just been round to take a look, he checked the distributor cap, all the points were covered in a greenish/blue substance & was filthy, cleaned it up & it has ran fine for a good 30-40minutes & never cut out once. He also pointed out its not the original coil pack in so thats one less thing to worry about....
What!? 
greyhulk said:
..............Visited a recommended mechanic who is red hot on ford capri's, granadas etc & tunes race cars up for a living which sounded promising.. I decided to just have a full service whilst i left it there (bad thing to do it seems) Replaced the fuel filter, oil filter, spark plugs, water pump & battery....
Do you think it might be time to find a new mechanic?Most of it's been done but the dizzy cap was filthy, the contacts on the inside were corroded as was the rotor arm outer edge. Fine after cleaning.
I wouldn't expect an auto engineer would let that by having done all the other stuff. Probably didn't want the work.
It will need a vacuum hose sooner rather than later but isn't leaking yet.
Time to get some miles on it now Steve
I wouldn't expect an auto engineer would let that by having done all the other stuff. Probably didn't want the work.
It will need a vacuum hose sooner rather than later but isn't leaking yet.
Time to get some miles on it now Steve
Alan461 said:
Most of it's been done but the dizzy cap was filthy, the contacts on the inside were corroded as was the rotor arm outer edge. Fine after cleaning.
I wouldn't expect an auto engineer would let that by having done all the other stuff. Probably didn't want the work.
It will need a vacuum hose sooner rather than later but isn't leaking yet.
Time to get some miles on it now Steve
Cheers Alan, thanks for your time again, yeah I'll be sure to come to the next Wellesbourne meet. Im about to order the replacement hose now, just to confirm its a 16mm (5/8) vacuum hose like this if I'm right.. http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/16mm-id-silicone-...I wouldn't expect an auto engineer would let that by having done all the other stuff. Probably didn't want the work.
It will need a vacuum hose sooner rather than later but isn't leaking yet.
Time to get some miles on it now Steve
Edited by greyhulk on Monday 28th December 21:26
greyhulk said:
Cheers Alan, thanks for your time again, im about to order the right one now, just to confirm its a 16mm (5/8) vacuum hose like this.. http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/16mm-id-silicone-...
That's what I've used but Richard has more experience with S1s he's the man to ask.v8s4me said:
Sound's like you're getting there, so I hope you can get some miles on it in the New Year and start enjoying your 'S' at last.
yeah hopefully its the last of the problems for now, about time I enjoy it too barely drove it since I bought it on my birthday!@Richard would the 16mm (5/8) vacuum hose be the correct one I'm after?
If replacing the hose to the servo you need a reinforced silicon hose as it will collapse under the vacuum if not reinforced. Some people also swear silicon should not be in this location as it can get contaminated with petrol fumes, but I had one fitted for over 3 years before I sold the car with no problems
The one you posted a picture of is reinforced, the one you linked isn't.
The one you posted a picture of is reinforced, the one you linked isn't.
I have never used a silicone hose for a vacuum application but if it says reinforced for vacuum use it should be OK. However silicone hoses tend to be more 'slippery' so whether it is as easy to get a good air tight seal I simply do not know. If it was me I would be taking the old hose to a good motor factors and saying 'can I have one like this please'!(is there a branch of Andrew Page or GT General Traffic near you). Good factors will sell by length.
mep12345 said:
If replacing the hose to the servo you need a reinforced silicon hose as it will collapse under the vacuum if not reinforced. Some people also swear silicon should not be in this location as it can get contaminated with petrol fumes, but I had one fitted for over 3 years before I sold the car with no problems
The one you posted a picture of is reinforced, the one you linked isn't.
Ah thank you, I know what I need now, there is a wire reinforced variant of that hose which states.. "very high burst pressures, and will not collapse under vacuum. The wire inner helix allows for the hose to be bent without fear of it kinking and blocking airflow"The one you posted a picture of is reinforced, the one you linked isn't.
@Richard, there's a eurocarparts & a few car spares shops that I know of, I'll try out this hose & check to see if its an air tight fit if not ill take the hose off & down to eurocarparts.
http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silicone-hose-sho...
Edited by greyhulk on Wednesday 30th December 08:17
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