Duratec V6... Has it ever been done?
Discussion
v8s4me said:
Ha! You weren't trying hard enough 
My V8S drank petrol at the equivalent of 120 miles of normal driving that day 
and I ran out of juice on the way home 
I was surprised, but then I pootle on motorways in it and only did the bowl and strip a couple of times that day. Spent most of my time on the Alpine Course, and the 2.8 isn't exactly the sort of engine you rev hard. It was all about maintaining speed through the bends. I never held anyone up doing that! My V8S drank petrol at the equivalent of 120 miles of normal driving that day and I ran out of juice on the way home 
Hi guys...
Great debate & info. For me, I am not promoting the AJ as being the best, & I am definitely not attacking the Cologne engine, as I know its a decent power unit with good longevity, but I have had enough of them for now. There is around 20yrs or so difference in design, technology, & built in efficiency. And for me that's enough !
And I for one don't mind too much what's its resale value is, as long as I get my satisfaction & enjoyment from both the project & eventually driving it... Plus as far as mpg goes, show me an enthusiastic sportcar owner who lifts his/her right foot when they're having fun... Within local legal & safe driving limits of course, just to save a quid ? And to those who say it does matter, maybe its time to get a 3-cylinder 1.0 Corsa (other fine eco cars are available).
TB.
Great debate & info. For me, I am not promoting the AJ as being the best, & I am definitely not attacking the Cologne engine, as I know its a decent power unit with good longevity, but I have had enough of them for now. There is around 20yrs or so difference in design, technology, & built in efficiency. And for me that's enough !
And I for one don't mind too much what's its resale value is, as long as I get my satisfaction & enjoyment from both the project & eventually driving it... Plus as far as mpg goes, show me an enthusiastic sportcar owner who lifts his/her right foot when they're having fun... Within local legal & safe driving limits of course, just to save a quid ? And to those who say it does matter, maybe its time to get a 3-cylinder 1.0 Corsa (other fine eco cars are available).
TB.
Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 3rd December 19:22
Hello There
I had mine done at Track V Road. . IMHO it's a great conversion.. I chose the engine as they are cheep, light and compact.
I read some opinions on here re gearboxes, I advise sticking with the s type one, nothing else fits and adaptor plates etc can be a nightmare. Then swap the diff to get your desired ratio. I have a 3.15 ford but in heindsight mod the driveshafts and go for a bmw unit like cater ham use.. Many ratios available.. Or use the s type unit..
Management will be expensive if you go full monte COP and sequential injection etc.. use EDIS6 and cheaper ECU are useable.
The induction will need sorting I am swapping the Jag unit for a ST220 unit with my jenvey 70mm TB or may go ITB is I get a good bonus..?
It's like a modern engine should be, rock solid temp control, great idle and it really flies.. We made 218bhp at the wheels.. Would be happy to put up against a v8s any day.. They have more torque but I redline at 7k should be a nice close race.?
Happy to answer any questions you may have... If I did again I would look for a 3.5 or 3.7 but the 3.0 is super cheep.. As is the 4.0 v8 from jag...
The 3.0 engine is like 60kg lighter than the ford unit.
Thanks
Damian
I had mine done at Track V Road. . IMHO it's a great conversion.. I chose the engine as they are cheep, light and compact.
I read some opinions on here re gearboxes, I advise sticking with the s type one, nothing else fits and adaptor plates etc can be a nightmare. Then swap the diff to get your desired ratio. I have a 3.15 ford but in heindsight mod the driveshafts and go for a bmw unit like cater ham use.. Many ratios available.. Or use the s type unit..
Management will be expensive if you go full monte COP and sequential injection etc.. use EDIS6 and cheaper ECU are useable.
The induction will need sorting I am swapping the Jag unit for a ST220 unit with my jenvey 70mm TB or may go ITB is I get a good bonus..?
It's like a modern engine should be, rock solid temp control, great idle and it really flies.. We made 218bhp at the wheels.. Would be happy to put up against a v8s any day.. They have more torque but I redline at 7k should be a nice close race.?
Happy to answer any questions you may have... If I did again I would look for a 3.5 or 3.7 but the 3.0 is super cheep.. As is the 4.0 v8 from jag...
The 3.0 engine is like 60kg lighter than the ford unit.
Thanks
Damian
Hi Damian, thanks for the info and suggestions regarding gearbox and diff choice. Exactly how much modification is required to fit these? Are we talking repositioning brackets or major reworking of the chassis?
With regard to management I suspect I'll run either an MBE which would come from someone upgrading their standard Noble kit or use something readily available like megasquirt. The advantage of an MBE is there's a loom available and everything will be plug and play. Also for the power I intend to run I'll be able to use the standard small turbos fitted to Nobles so again I can use stuff that owners intend to upgrade.
I know a couple of guys who have pretty much everything I'd need engine wise, what I would need is a box, diff, prop etc which should all be relatively cheap to acquire.
Using this configuration will give me more than enough power and torque but should I lose my mind completely there are a few Nobles over 600bhp and a couple over 700 now
With regard to management I suspect I'll run either an MBE which would come from someone upgrading their standard Noble kit or use something readily available like megasquirt. The advantage of an MBE is there's a loom available and everything will be plug and play. Also for the power I intend to run I'll be able to use the standard small turbos fitted to Nobles so again I can use stuff that owners intend to upgrade.
I know a couple of guys who have pretty much everything I'd need engine wise, what I would need is a box, diff, prop etc which should all be relatively cheap to acquire.
Using this configuration will give me more than enough power and torque but should I lose my mind completely there are a few Nobles over 600bhp and a couple over 700 now
Hello again
I'm not sure you will have room for the twin turbo set up the s has narrow chassis hence the requirement for the 90 degree V configuration. For turbo power i think you would need to bring the exhaust forward and use a large single turbo like the v8 boys use.
Above 300bhp will also likely require a full cage and or chassis mods to stop it twisting.. Also trailing arm mounts suffer with high power..
The prop or half shafts require mods if you go jag gbox to ford (like me) the 7" diff just bolts in if you go jag to bmw the prop and half shafts require mods. You could get h duty half shafts made that go bmw to ford. Cater ham do a diff carrier to allow the bmw diff to bolt in (to a caterham) but this should work for the s too. Or make your own mounts.
The use of a st220 or x type sump should allow the engine to drop in with custom mounts. TVR made some that use the standard chassis pick ups so the card could go back to ford power if you wanted. The s type gbox linkage is easy to mod to the right length and feels great.
Inlet wise the ford or jag units point forward so no issues there. Not sure about noble ones but I did read they upgrade to an st220 manifold sometimes.
Re big power the s gets a bit hairy at 120mph plus so beware.
Brake wise I have full escort cosworth set up which is more than adequate it's probably best to use mondeo parts now as they are newer and easier to obtain.
I will post the new dino graph when I get the st220 manifold on. Also it's important to keep the rocker cover PCV or you will blow oil out of the breather.
I also had to use a smaller alternator to make it fit but this is pretty simple.
Thanks
Damian
I'm not sure you will have room for the twin turbo set up the s has narrow chassis hence the requirement for the 90 degree V configuration. For turbo power i think you would need to bring the exhaust forward and use a large single turbo like the v8 boys use.
Above 300bhp will also likely require a full cage and or chassis mods to stop it twisting.. Also trailing arm mounts suffer with high power..
The prop or half shafts require mods if you go jag gbox to ford (like me) the 7" diff just bolts in if you go jag to bmw the prop and half shafts require mods. You could get h duty half shafts made that go bmw to ford. Cater ham do a diff carrier to allow the bmw diff to bolt in (to a caterham) but this should work for the s too. Or make your own mounts.
The use of a st220 or x type sump should allow the engine to drop in with custom mounts. TVR made some that use the standard chassis pick ups so the card could go back to ford power if you wanted. The s type gbox linkage is easy to mod to the right length and feels great.
Inlet wise the ford or jag units point forward so no issues there. Not sure about noble ones but I did read they upgrade to an st220 manifold sometimes.
Re big power the s gets a bit hairy at 120mph plus so beware.
Brake wise I have full escort cosworth set up which is more than adequate it's probably best to use mondeo parts now as they are newer and easier to obtain.
I will post the new dino graph when I get the st220 manifold on. Also it's important to keep the rocker cover PCV or you will blow oil out of the breather.
I also had to use a smaller alternator to make it fit but this is pretty simple.
Thanks
Damian
Hi
Plenty of room for twin turbo's, you will need to relocate the battery to the boot. just a case of fitting the turbo's and re fitting everything around them
Alan
All this fits inside the S, a bit of a tight fit but it's in. Next job body back on
Plenty of room for twin turbo's, you will need to relocate the battery to the boot. just a case of fitting the turbo's and re fitting everything around them
Alan
All this fits inside the S, a bit of a tight fit but it's in. Next job body back on
Edited by Alan Whitaker on Sunday 6th December 12:09
Hello again
I'm not sure you will have room for the twin turbo set up the s has narrow chassis hence the requirement for the 90 degree V configuration. For turbo power i think you would need to bring the exhaust forward and use a large single turbo like the v8 boys use.
Above 300bhp will also likely require a full cage and or chassis mods to stop it twisting.. Also trailing arm mounts suffer with high power..
The prop or half shafts require mods if you go jag gbox to ford (like me) the 7" diff just bolts in if you go jag to bmw the prop and half shafts require mods. You could get h duty half shafts made that go bmw to ford. Cater ham do a diff carrier to allow the bmw diff to bolt in (to a caterham) but this should work for the s too. Or make your own mounts.
The use of a st220 or x type sump should allow the engine to drop in with custom mounts. TVR made some that use the standard chassis pick ups so the card could go back to ford power if you wanted. The s type gbox linkage is easy to mod to the right length and feels great.
Inlet wise the ford or jag units point forward so no issues there. Not sure about noble ones but I did read they upgrade to an st220 manifold sometimes.
Re big power the s gets a bit hairy at 120mph plus so beware.
Brake wise I have full escort cosworth set up which is more than adequate it's probably best to use mondeo parts now as they are newer and easier to obtain.
I will post the new dino graph when I get the st220 manifold on. Also it's important to keep the rocker cover PCV or you will blow oil out of the breather.
I also had to use a smaller alternator to make it fit but this is pretty simple.
Thanks
Damian
I'm not sure you will have room for the twin turbo set up the s has narrow chassis hence the requirement for the 90 degree V configuration. For turbo power i think you would need to bring the exhaust forward and use a large single turbo like the v8 boys use.
Above 300bhp will also likely require a full cage and or chassis mods to stop it twisting.. Also trailing arm mounts suffer with high power..
The prop or half shafts require mods if you go jag gbox to ford (like me) the 7" diff just bolts in if you go jag to bmw the prop and half shafts require mods. You could get h duty half shafts made that go bmw to ford. Cater ham do a diff carrier to allow the bmw diff to bolt in (to a caterham) but this should work for the s too. Or make your own mounts.
The use of a st220 or x type sump should allow the engine to drop in with custom mounts. TVR made some that use the standard chassis pick ups so the card could go back to ford power if you wanted. The s type gbox linkage is easy to mod to the right length and feels great.
Inlet wise the ford or jag units point forward so no issues there. Not sure about noble ones but I did read they upgrade to an st220 manifold sometimes.
Re big power the s gets a bit hairy at 120mph plus so beware.
Brake wise I have full escort cosworth set up which is more than adequate it's probably best to use mondeo parts now as they are newer and easier to obtain.
I will post the new dino graph when I get the st220 manifold on. Also it's important to keep the rocker cover PCV or you will blow oil out of the breather.
I also had to use a smaller alternator to make it fit but this is pretty simple.
Thanks
Damian
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