Is this correct?

Is this correct?

Author
Discussion

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all
There wasn't a washer under the ball-joint nut...[url]

|http://thumbsnap.com/tmVNZ1ds[/url]

Should there be one?

mk1fan

10,516 posts

225 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all
I asked this a while back. Opinion was that it wasn't essential. I will be adding them on my rebuild.

upperthong

109 posts

101 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all
Should have ................... mine has.

glenrobbo

35,202 posts

150 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all
It is common nowadays to have no washer in such applications, but personally I consider it bad engineering practice. I always prefer to use a washer between the nut and the component as it enables better control over the torque values when tightening and also spreads the loads over a larger area, reducing stresses. teacher

Also there should always be a minimum of 1.5 threads protruding through the nut.

Nylocs should be used once only. soapbox Safety!

Edited by glenrobbo on Thursday 4th February 22:47

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all
glenrobbo said:
...Nylocs should be used once only. soapbox Safety!
I've been trying to find a new nut but can't work out the size/thread. Any ideas?

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all

As said, washers not usually fitted by manufacturers but will do no harm if enough spare thread, which is M10 fine.


Track rod end locknuts are M14 x 2mm pitch from memory?



v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Thursday 4th February 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
... which is M10 fine...
On order. Thanks both.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
[quote=phillpot].., which is M10 fine.

Not on mine. New one on the left, old one on the right..



The old one measures 16mm across the flats. Could it be 11mm fine?

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
The old one measures 16mm across the flats. Could it be 11mm fine?
16mm = 5/8" ?

could be 7/16" unf scratchchin



don't throw the metrics away, they'll fit mine wink

glenrobbo

35,202 posts

150 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
IIRC Joe, on metric threads, the female has flat crests.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
... don't throw the metrics away, they'll fit mine [/i][/small] wink ...
Throw something away? rofl

brianthesnail

55 posts

109 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
And the front ARB drop links on mine were M10 fine so always handy to have!

aero340

271 posts

212 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
if the nylon insert within the nut is white =unf blue = metric.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Monday 8th February 2016
quotequote all
The one which came off had a white insert. So 7/16" UNF now on order. Thanks thumbup

I'll keep the metric ones in case the one on the other side is metric. Well, it is a TVR laugh

Kitchski

6,515 posts

231 months

Tuesday 9th February 2016
quotequote all
One school of thought says a washer spreads the load better and should be fitted.

The other school of thought says that a washer reduces the number of threads proud of the nut, and in the real world, isn't really required on something like a track rod end.

Only thing I'd say that needs to enter the thought process when debating whether to fit one or not, is to make sure the taper of the joint isn't meeting the nut. Because these cars were thrown together using all manner of different components, sometimes washers were vital, as the taper of the chosen swivel joint is too long for the bore in the upright or whatever it's fitted to. That means your nut tightens up (or won't tighten up) yet the taper isn't seated fully.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Tuesday 9th February 2016
quotequote all
Kitchski said:
..Only thing I'd say that needs to enter the thought process when debating whether to fit one or not, is to make sure the taper of the joint isn't meeting the nut.....
Good point. I'll check. Thanks for that thumbup

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Tuesday 9th February 2016
quotequote all

Same track rod end going back into same steering arm? should be ok wink

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Tuesday 9th February 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
...Same track rod end going back into same steering arm? should be ok wink
Also a good point. But it is a TVR! and who's to say it's the original track rod end? I still won't be surprised if the other side is metric smile

glenrobbo

35,202 posts

150 months

Tuesday 9th February 2016
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
phillpot said:
...Same track rod end going back into same steering arm? should be ok wink
Also a good point. But it is a TVR! and who's to say it's the original track rod end? I still won't be surprised if the other side is metric smile
I wouldn't be surprised if it was an Acme thread! biggrin

Top Gear TVR

2,244 posts

154 months

Wednesday 10th February 2016
quotequote all
and on the other hand....it might be the other hand. if you see what i mean.

I was told as a lad that metric threads were averaged and rounded versions of whitworth. i believed this because i am not french. is this correct? (except 13mm, which was a further cock-up to put us whitworth boys off.

oh and the thread angles were all wrong too. Mutter 'Foreigners'

glenrobbo said:
v8s4me said:
phillpot said:
...Same track rod end going back into same steering arm? should be ok wink
Also a good point. But it is a TVR! and who's to say it's the original track rod end? I still won't be surprised if the other side is metric smile
I wouldn't be surprised if it was an Acme thread! biggrin