Frame and rust problems
Discussion
When I removed my s3 body one of the rear outer outrigger bolts was seized, so I cut the head off, but needn't have bothered as the threaded hoop was corroded through & just broke away from the outrigger. After 6months of doing the chassis resto, when I refitted the body it wouldn't sit down on one side. Yes, I had clean forgotten about the lump of corroded metal left in situ. And of course you couldn't see it once the outrigger was nearly in place. I soon found it by lifting the body slightly & running my fingers along the body recess.... Ouch !
One bloody finger.
TerryB
One bloody finger.
TerryB
No its not the fuel pipe, it was initially, but after a slight movement dropped to the tube body. The car is sat at the same height on both sides I initially thought it was the welding not in the correct place but we checked it all again and it is not yet touching any of the new welds!!
I have not added any extra rubber padding to the chassis frame nor have a put any other item above the chassis, so I am still scratching my head.
I have not added any extra rubber padding to the chassis frame nor have a put any other item above the chassis, so I am still scratching my head.
Does it have new stately tabs? Check they're not touching the body along where the outrigger sits. Have the rear saddle mounts been changed? They could be at slightly higher than before. If you're doing it from scratch with new rubbers (if not, why not) then take the body down all the way with no rubbers and start shimming from the front first, then the middle, then the rear when you've got them done. Do rear last as it also sets roof tension
Now the last post is a good idea, never thought of doing it that way around, makes a lot of sense.
Yes all new rubbers are being used throughout.
I now have the tank back off and I hope u can see the gap that is concerning me.
I have looked along the whole body and at the front it is sitting nearly perfect and the rear just seems to raise has it goes along. Nothing appears to be catching!!
The gap u can see on the pic is actually larger when the car is held correct for the doors and the roof.
Yes all new rubbers are being used throughout.
I now have the tank back off and I hope u can see the gap that is concerning me.
I have looked along the whole body and at the front it is sitting nearly perfect and the rear just seems to raise has it goes along. Nothing appears to be catching!!
The gap u can see on the pic is actually larger when the car is held correct for the doors and the roof.
Yes, but I already have two strips of rubber and if I add more the rear gets higher subsequently the strip above the rear frame that covers the rubbers will have a gap bigger than the metal itself.
In my eyes if I had two strips of rubber prior to its strip down and if everything is going back in the same place it has two when it goes back together.
Something is wrong and I think the only option is to take it all back off again and figure it out. This unfortunately is the life of a car restorer its either correct or its correct.....I wish sometimes it was not because my life would be a lot easier......
In my eyes if I had two strips of rubber prior to its strip down and if everything is going back in the same place it has two when it goes back together.
Something is wrong and I think the only option is to take it all back off again and figure it out. This unfortunately is the life of a car restorer its either correct or its correct.....I wish sometimes it was not because my life would be a lot easier......
Hi Allen,
I am in the process of getting a group of guys 2gether, hopefully mid week. But I think u r going to b spot on, yes I have had them both changed and yes I think they r at the limit stopping its movement forward.
Its dark here now but I will have a better look 2morrow afternoon after work
Did u remove yours and re weld them again or did u change for new?
I have plenty of new metal left due to the earlier mix up with the metal parts.
Thanks again, I will let u know how I get on.
I am in the process of getting a group of guys 2gether, hopefully mid week. But I think u r going to b spot on, yes I have had them both changed and yes I think they r at the limit stopping its movement forward.
Its dark here now but I will have a better look 2morrow afternoon after work
Did u remove yours and re weld them again or did u change for new?
I have plenty of new metal left due to the earlier mix up with the metal parts.
Thanks again, I will let u know how I get on.
Hi...
If (as above in Red) the triangulated tube sections are hard against the GRP body (front wheel arch).
Have a look at the big seatbelt tabs at the front of the rear wheel arch.
And if they are hard against the body, you must have reduced the chassis length from point to point.
But if you have any rubber pads in front of those upright tabs, remove them, as that might just give you enough !
I too had re made one of my tabs a bit too close, but with a bit of heat I could create a bit more gap.
Obviously you cant keep moving the body back too much (to suit the new triangle section position) as this would mis-align everything else !!
TerryB.
If (as above in Red) the triangulated tube sections are hard against the GRP body (front wheel arch).
Have a look at the big seatbelt tabs at the front of the rear wheel arch.
And if they are hard against the body, you must have reduced the chassis length from point to point.
But if you have any rubber pads in front of those upright tabs, remove them, as that might just give you enough !
I too had re made one of my tabs a bit too close, but with a bit of heat I could create a bit more gap.
Obviously you cant keep moving the body back too much (to suit the new triangle section position) as this would mis-align everything else !!
TerryB.
I think I have got to the bottom of the problem.
The front right side has been left a bit lumpy with weld at the bottom cross section pipe above the triangle, subsequently pushing the rear right side of the car back onto the metal upright of the trailing arm. The left side is free.
I will drop on some picks but don't know if u will be able to see the problem though.
The car I will lift back on Wednesday and see if I can free it up.
The front right side has been left a bit lumpy with weld at the bottom cross section pipe above the triangle, subsequently pushing the rear right side of the car back onto the metal upright of the trailing arm. The left side is free.
I will drop on some picks but don't know if u will be able to see the problem though.
The car I will lift back on Wednesday and see if I can free it up.
Edited by carsinthesun on Monday 20th June 17:11
All sorted,
Many thanks to all who took the time to help.
Got the body off, made a small adjustment to the front right outrigger and the body just dropped into place when it was put back on.
Now in the process of putting it all back together when its I done will post a few pics.
Just one point, could anybody please tell me what holds the rear exhaust onto the car.
I have a set of stainless steel twin pipes.I have a bolt with a rubber mount and then a figure eight of a type of material that wraps around the pipes. It looks like its made from a rubber and leather material. Is this correct or has it been home made?
Many thanks to all who took the time to help.
Got the body off, made a small adjustment to the front right outrigger and the body just dropped into place when it was put back on.
Now in the process of putting it all back together when its I done will post a few pics.
Just one point, could anybody please tell me what holds the rear exhaust onto the car.
I have a set of stainless steel twin pipes.I have a bolt with a rubber mount and then a figure eight of a type of material that wraps around the pipes. It looks like its made from a rubber and leather material. Is this correct or has it been home made?
carsinthesun said:
Is this correct or has it been home made?
Sounds very "home made".There should just be a piece of flat metal welded between the two tailpipes, bolt through that into a welded nut on the tank cradle with some rubber packers between
Ok quick update,
All back together less the bonnet and the exhaust,
However, I have a starting problem, It wont, !! to cut a long story short,ish, only electrical things ive fitted are a new battery and a new starter motor solenoid.
The alarm appears to be responding but I will change the batts in the remotes this evening to be on the safe side.
When I turn on the ignition I get nothing, I also have no reading from the battery gauge or does that only register after starting?
The engine does not turn over at all, I cannot hear any fuel pumps starter systems or anything, anybody got any ideas.
Any help will be greatly appreciated, I am hoping to take it to a show on Sunday.
All back together less the bonnet and the exhaust,
However, I have a starting problem, It wont, !! to cut a long story short,ish, only electrical things ive fitted are a new battery and a new starter motor solenoid.
The alarm appears to be responding but I will change the batts in the remotes this evening to be on the safe side.
When I turn on the ignition I get nothing, I also have no reading from the battery gauge or does that only register after starting?
The engine does not turn over at all, I cannot hear any fuel pumps starter systems or anything, anybody got any ideas.
Any help will be greatly appreciated, I am hoping to take it to a show on Sunday.
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