An old nemesis has returned !
Discussion
It's there! I forgot that the banjo fitting is horizontal for the control pressure.
So, as we were. I would check that there is power being supplied to the warm-up regulator and air bypass valve when running, and that there is voltage at the cold start injector when turning over.
I would also plug as many intake lines as possible (all but the brake servo) and see if things improve or the idle drops.
So, as we were. I would check that there is power being supplied to the warm-up regulator and air bypass valve when running, and that there is voltage at the cold start injector when turning over.
I would also plug as many intake lines as possible (all but the brake servo) and see if things improve or the idle drops.
Loach1 said:
It's there! I forgot that the banjo fitting is horizontal for the control pressure.
So, as we were. I would check that there is power being supplied to the warm-up regulator and air bypass valve when running, and that there is voltage at the cold start injector when turning over.
I would also plug as many intake lines as possible (all but the brake servo) and see if things improve or the idle drops.
Thanks David, appreciated.So, as we were. I would check that there is power being supplied to the warm-up regulator and air bypass valve when running, and that there is voltage at the cold start injector when turning over.
I would also plug as many intake lines as possible (all but the brake servo) and see if things improve or the idle drops.
I'll try that out also ill try & source a replacement pcv valve elbow & just left of the 'cold start injector' theres a small split in the domed rubber cap.. These may or may not be effecting things
- Update
Noticed a few rivets on the air filter box were loose, also the jubilee clip on the bottom of this hose was nowhere near tight it could be spun around.. Tightened it up & just taped the rivets for now, further testing required
reading the steve heath bible, im beginning to think the ignition module is failing, i remember 'greymrj' told me to replace this awhile ago as its probably the original one in the car, does anyone know what make/model ignition module i need for the S1 2.8?
Cheers
greyhulk said:
does anyone know what make/model ignition module i need for the S1 2.8?
Ford Capri 2.8 at a guess 
phillpot said:
Ford Capri 2.8 at a guess
cheers mike, i was told ages ago to replace both the ignition module & coil as there most likely the original ones on the car (greymrj's advice) so i thinkim finally going to do that.Im pretty sure there is no air leaks from any of the intake hoses, the air flow meter was all sorted out by mechanic too & the car starts up first time (with gas) so im considering a new rotor arm & dizzy cap (bosch ones) may solve this occasional stalling when idling issue? It can only be something silly but i cant quite pinpoint what it is
If not i concede & will have to risk another trip to auto electricians if the car makes it on the motorway, theres nowhere local to me that i trust with an older car like this
Edited by greyhulk on Saturday 23 April 18:56
v8s4me said:
Is the part circled in red in good order, ie no cracks or splits? Faulty ones have featured on a couple of threads recently causing similar symptoms..
yeah I was one of those unlucky guys who had the split in the cap.. this is a replacement one checked it all over its fine, my next quest is trying to find the ICV & checking to see if its full of gunk or notThe 2.8 doesn't have an ICV as such. Idle is set at the throttle body when warmed up and for a higher idle when cold it uses the by-pass valve that is just below the green circle in your last picture (it has a blue hose on either side and an electrical connector for the heater cool inside). The key to a smooth running 2.8 is fuel pressure, so if you are satisfied that there are no intake leaks, that would be my next suggestion. Electrically it sounds find - you have a spark. That's all you need to run a 2.8.
To check fuel pressures (and correctly set mixture for all conditions), you need an old school mechanic that has a gauge set for Fords or VWs of the 80's. They must check line pressure and hot and cold control pressure and make adjustments as necessary to bring them back to normal. It's an expensive job because it takes time, especially the adjustment at the warm-up regulator. I think it was designed to be permanently set, but I bet a lot of cars have the wrong replacement warm up regulators installed, so they must be adjusted for the engine. They will owe you the corrected pressure numbers at the end of the job, so you know it was done correctly.
Also, the idle mixture can be adjusted independently. You might try this yourself with a very long 3mm Allen wrench. Make small adjustments and remember where it was if it doesn't improve. My guess is that you need to richen up a little, so give it 1/2 turn clockwise for starters.
To check fuel pressures (and correctly set mixture for all conditions), you need an old school mechanic that has a gauge set for Fords or VWs of the 80's. They must check line pressure and hot and cold control pressure and make adjustments as necessary to bring them back to normal. It's an expensive job because it takes time, especially the adjustment at the warm-up regulator. I think it was designed to be permanently set, but I bet a lot of cars have the wrong replacement warm up regulators installed, so they must be adjusted for the engine. They will owe you the corrected pressure numbers at the end of the job, so you know it was done correctly.
Also, the idle mixture can be adjusted independently. You might try this yourself with a very long 3mm Allen wrench. Make small adjustments and remember where it was if it doesn't improve. My guess is that you need to richen up a little, so give it 1/2 turn clockwise for starters.
Loach1 said:
The 2.8 doesn't have an ICV as such. Idle is set at the throttle body when warmed up and for a higher idle when cold it uses the by-pass valve that is just below the green circle in your last picture (it has a blue hose on either side and an electrical connector for the heater cool inside). The key to a smooth running 2.8 is fuel pressure, so if you are satisfied that there are no intake leaks, that would be my next suggestion. Electrically it sounds find - you have a spark. That's all you need to run a 2.8.
To check fuel pressures (and correctly set mixture for all conditions), you need an old school mechanic that has a gauge set for Fords or VWs of the 80's. They must check line pressure and hot and cold control pressure and make adjustments as necessary to bring them back to normal. It's an expensive job because it takes time, especially the adjustment at the warm-up regulator. I think it was designed to be permanently set, but I bet a lot of cars have the wrong replacement warm up regulators installed, so they must be adjusted for the engine. They will owe you the corrected pressure numbers at the end of the job, so you know it was done correctly.
Also, the idle mixture can be adjusted independently. You might try this yourself with a very long 3mm Allen wrench. Make small adjustments and remember where it was if it doesn't improve. My guess is that you need to richen up a little, so give it 1/2 turn clockwise for starters.
Hi David, today its started up fine, idled at a steady 1000rpm no shaking either, sounded alot better too (did use some contact cleaner on the various plugs, electrical points etc, i think this car just likes to play games with me To check fuel pressures (and correctly set mixture for all conditions), you need an old school mechanic that has a gauge set for Fords or VWs of the 80's. They must check line pressure and hot and cold control pressure and make adjustments as necessary to bring them back to normal. It's an expensive job because it takes time, especially the adjustment at the warm-up regulator. I think it was designed to be permanently set, but I bet a lot of cars have the wrong replacement warm up regulators installed, so they must be adjusted for the engine. They will owe you the corrected pressure numbers at the end of the job, so you know it was done correctly.
Also, the idle mixture can be adjusted independently. You might try this yourself with a very long 3mm Allen wrench. Make small adjustments and remember where it was if it doesn't improve. My guess is that you need to richen up a little, so give it 1/2 turn clockwise for starters.
) so im not going to tamper with the mixture for nowi still cant figure out why it wont start with just the turn of a key, possibly a failing ignition module, coil?
Ht leads & spark plugs are all new, along with dizzy cap (was a cheap intermotor one tho), may order a bosch one along with new rotor arm?
Edited by greyhulk on Sunday 24th April 12:45
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