Ignition Coil Replacement

[greyhulk]

Hi guys,
Just wondering what a decent quality replacement would be? Ive had a look online & getting confused by ballasted/non ballasted? Not sure which one is in my TVR S1 2.8, initially i was going to go for a bosch 12v constant energy..



then phillpot kindly linked this one to me, so im just getting confirmation before i order, is this intermotor direct oe replacement ok to go with?



Thanks
Steve

[phillpot]

Steve, the picture alone could be any one of a hundred Intermotor coils!


Ebay ad..... Capri 2.8 coil.


From the Intermotor catalogue should be part No. 11400

[greyhulk]

Cheers mike, just dropped the seller a message to confirm

[greymrj]

Just to add info. Depending on the cross referencing catalogue the supplier is using, the following part numbers may be relevant:
Lucas DLB 125, Motorcraft 1027283, Demon Tweeks also supplied under ref 40111.

There is nothing particularly special about this coil, and it doesnt need a ballast resistor as there is a large ballast resister built into the circuitry. On the S1 that ballast resister is a length of thick blue wire coiled front left near the rear mounting of the lower wishbone.

Coil on the 2.8 should be moved off the plenum chamber for improved cooling.

[greyhulk]

greymrj said:

Just to add info. Depending on the cross referencing catalogue the supplier is using, the following part numbers may be relevant:
Lucas DLB 125, Motorcraft 1027283, Demon Tweeks also supplied under ref 40111.

There is nothing particularly special about this coil, and it doesnt need a ballast resistor as there is a large ballast resister built into the circuitry. On the S1 that ballast resister is a length of thick blue wire coiled front left near the rear mounting of the lower wishbone.

Coil on the 2.8 should be moved off the plenum chamber for improved cooling.

Cheers Richard, yep got my coil moved away, just fear it may have already got damaged by heat last year when I had all those overheating issues.
Would you recommend a Bosch coil or just go with the intermotor?

Edited by greyhulk on Tuesday 26th April 07:19

[greymrj]

No strong feelings either way, Intermotor have been supplying coils for a long time, at least one of my cars has an Intermotor coil.

[greyhulk]

greymrj said:

No strong feelings either way, Intermotor have been supplying coils for a long time, at least one of my cars has an Intermotor coil.

hmm well I'm glad ive asked before just ordering on instinct again, I'm after a quality replacement so its either the intermotor or try to find the Lucas one you mentioned

Edited by greyhulk on Tuesday 26th April 10:12

[greyhulk]

just found one (presuming lucas is a quality part ) for anyone else trying to source a replacement ignition coil.. http://www.leacyclassics.com/dlb125.html

Edited by greyhulk on Tuesday 26th April 16:17

[glenrobbo]

I may have been very very lucky, but in all my years of motoring and owning hundreds of cars, I have only ever once had to replace a coil, and that was because the casing was corroded and had started leaking oil.

Has anyone suffered many coil failures in their driving experience?



( Cue instant coil failure! )

Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 26th April 16:33

[greyhulk]

im only suspicious about mine because last week my car backfired when i took it for a spin, & been having difficulties getting it started.. well unless i apply some throttle is the only way it actually starts up (which may be cold start injector issue which one shall test when theres not a sudden violent storm outside ) also had other symptoms like vehicle stalling, engine misfire!

If not its another trip to the auto electricians up coventry

Edited by greyhulk on Tuesday 26th April 16:37

[glenrobbo]

Yes Steve, but gradually replacing every component in the ignition & fuel systems is an expensive exercise and even then one of the new components could be defective.
A proper sequence of fault diagnosis by somebody with the appropriate experience is a far better method ( and less expensive in the long run. ) as long as yoy can find the right man.
An intermittent fault is difficult to pin down, but random component changing is not the solution.

[greyhulk]

i know yeah could end up replacing everything that sounds like its causing me problems might just bite the bullet & risk driving it back up on the motorway to the auto electricans again.
Ive already took it up there and it WAS running fine after i got it back.. then all of a sudden backfired & stalled on my driveway after a shaky idle, it was unused for a good 3-4weeks may just be choking up or something

[GreenV8S]

Dumb question time - have you confirmed that both ends of all the HT leads are seated firmly? Any loose connection can run fine for a time and then shift position and give a weak spark. Especially if you have good quality well sealed connectors, it's not unknown for the plug shrouds to seal so well that they keep a pocket of air in that later expands with heat and blows the lead off.

[greyhulk]

GreenV8S said:

Dumb question time - have you confirmed that both ends of all the HT leads are seated firmly? Any loose connection can run fine for a time and then shift position and give a weak spark. Especially if you have good quality well sealed connectors, it's not unknown for the plug shrouds to seal so well that they keep a pocket of air in that later expands with heat and blows the lead off.

Have checked all the leads I guess it wouldn't hurt to have another look, I'll hang fire on replacing coil.. It may be that i just need to give the car a good blast out its been relatively unused for a month or so really.

[ChrisGadd]

greymrj said:

Coil on the 2.8 should be moved off the plenum chamber for improved cooling.

The above comment is interesting especially as I'm tidying up my engine bay.

Question is Where have people moved their coil and did it need any special brackets making ?

[v8s4me]

ChrisGadd said:

...Question is Where have people moved their coil and did it need any special brackets making ?

I moved my coil and ignition amplifier this winter. See post on 13/2....

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

The rubber boots on my new lead were very tight and it was a struggle to get them to seat properly becasue of the trapped air. A thin hypodermic needle would be ideal for this job. It would let the air escape whn the boot is pushed on and the hole would seal up when the needle was removed.

glenrobbo said:

Yes Steve, but gradually replacing every component in the ignition & fuel systems is an expensive exercise and even then one of the new components could be defective. .....

Go to the post on 8/3 to see my experience with the speedo sender. Sometimes it really can be something simple - if you can find it!

[greyhulk]

ChrisGadd said:

The above comment is interesting especially as I'm tidying up my engine bay.

Question is Where have people moved their coil and did it need any special brackets making ?

Nope just use existing bolt, hole on passenger side.. Here's mine (doesn't foul bonnet eitherfor those wondering )

Edited by greyhulk on Wednesday 27th April 10:13

[MisterTee]

I had to replace the coil on my S3 shortly after buying it because it was hesitant and misfired something terrible if it got too hot under the bonnet.

I bought one of these - looks a bit unconventional but does the job very well - I was told that it is a direct replacement for the original wet coil Lucas DLB 125

Andy