Juddery brake problem - Help sourcing parts please
Discussion
Hello all, I'm hoping someone can help me with my 1990 S2 which has just failed its MOT due to fluctuating brake pressure on the nearside. We thought it was a warped disc but having got it up on the ramp to replace the same it appears to be a problem with the hub, flange or bearing. My mechanic tells me we need the whole hub and flange assembly or at the very least the flange and bearing. Does anyone know or can suggest:
a) Where I might source the parts
b) Whether the parts are TVR or come from a donor vehicle and if so which donor vehicle that was
c) Any other comments/suggestions that might help
Any direction gratefully received as I'm very keen to get her back on the road whilst the sun is out! Many thanks
Karl
a) Where I might source the parts
b) Whether the parts are TVR or come from a donor vehicle and if so which donor vehicle that was
c) Any other comments/suggestions that might help
Any direction gratefully received as I'm very keen to get her back on the road whilst the sun is out! Many thanks
Karl
Hubs and associated "bits" are Ford Sierra.
They are getting a bit hard to find in scrapyards these days but usually plenty of bits on Ebay, tend to fetch a decent price because that hub/stub axle set up is very popular on kit cars.
Whereabouts are you?
May have some spare bits here if someone can confirm if you need the LH or RH thread (can never remember which is which)?
Edited by phillpot on Friday 6th May 17:32
Has the car been standing a while? Could be just corrosion on the disc surface or possibly variable disc thickness due to running out of true. Is the contact surface between the disc and hub clean? If it isn't the disc can wear one side over time causing variable thickness which gives you the symptoms you have.
Phillpot - thanks for that. I'll start searching to see what I can find. I'm in Chesterfield, Derbyshire...I'll check with mechanic to see if he can answer the thread question
Griffinr - It sits in my garage over winter each year...discs are about 4 years old...outside face of disc looks fine but worth a check on contact surface and thickness issue...appreciate your comments thanks
Karl
Griffinr - It sits in my garage over winter each year...discs are about 4 years old...outside face of disc looks fine but worth a check on contact surface and thickness issue...appreciate your comments thanks
Karl
If your mechanic is claiming the hub is bad you should expect to see the run-out using a dial gauge, but the hub is just an iron casting and it's hard to imagine how it could get distorted short of a major impact.
It should be quick enough to feel for play in the bearings so I assume your mechanic has already confirmed they're OK.
The disk is a wear item and could easily have picked up enough surface corrosion to cause judder, so replace that as a matter of course if not already done. It's also quite common to get uneven impregnation from the pads causing hard spots on the rotors leading to brake judder. Either way, new disks would be an obvious thing to try. Follow up the previous suggestion to check for clean mounting with the hub.
While you have things apart check the condition of the caliper sliders. They do wear, and rely on grease to keep them moving easily and to damp out backlash. Hopefully your mechanic has already inspected, cleaned and lubricated the whole caliper by the time he's diagnosing hub problems but it doesn't pay to take things for granted.
It should be quick enough to feel for play in the bearings so I assume your mechanic has already confirmed they're OK.
The disk is a wear item and could easily have picked up enough surface corrosion to cause judder, so replace that as a matter of course if not already done. It's also quite common to get uneven impregnation from the pads causing hard spots on the rotors leading to brake judder. Either way, new disks would be an obvious thing to try. Follow up the previous suggestion to check for clean mounting with the hub.
While you have things apart check the condition of the caliper sliders. They do wear, and rely on grease to keep them moving easily and to damp out backlash. Hopefully your mechanic has already inspected, cleaned and lubricated the whole caliper by the time he's diagnosing hub problems but it doesn't pay to take things for granted.
Here's a pair for £70 + delivery. They are listed for 1.8/2.0 Sierra but might be the same as yours.
As above though, it's hard to see how your existing hubs might be damaged in normal use. If there was an impact big enough to break a hub, the wishbones would probably be trashed as well.
Brakes can be "juddery" for all the reasons listed above, and all of which can be sorted relatively easily and cheaply.
As above though, it's hard to see how your existing hubs might be damaged in normal use. If there was an impact big enough to break a hub, the wishbones would probably be trashed as well.
Brakes can be "juddery" for all the reasons listed above, and all of which can be sorted relatively easily and cheaply.
GreenV8S, Phillpot, V8s4me and AutoAndy - I really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge and experience....I'm going to head back down to the workshop first thing Monday morning to raise all of the points made and hopefully make some progress. If need be Ive got the hubs on eBay in my sights! Cheers fellas
Scoobimax - I'll check out the South Yorkshire guys shortly...thanks for the heads up
Scoobimax - I'll check out the South Yorkshire guys shortly...thanks for the heads up
Just for reference everybody I believe the taper for one or more of the balljoints on the main hub casting were machined to take the appropriate donor balljoint. I think it's the one for the bottom balljoint but not sure. The upshot is a Sierra hub won't fit straight on.
If it's come off an S you should be fine, caveat emptor E&OE and all that.
If it's come off an S you should be fine, caveat emptor E&OE and all that.
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