Electrical starting issues I think it's an earth problem ?
Discussion
Hi I am new to all things TVR and not very hands on (but want to learn). I have an intermittent problem with my TVR S3. I have had issues with the back indicators not working on and off on both sides. When I unclip them and take them out of the housing and reconnect they seem to work again. However occasionally the car won't start. When I turn the key I get a click and that's it and it won't turn over. I am pretty sure the two things are related and it's a bad earth some where. I thought I had found what it is this week as there was a rogue wire which is the earth for the ariel and was not attached anywhere. However it does not seem to matter after some testing connected to the car or not. Any thought on what it could be or anyone had similar issues ? The other thought I have had is maybe it's related to when I take off the roof panels and store them in the boot as its a tight fit and it may be knocking something ? Many thanks Jason
Welcome to the 'club'.
The rear lights are a common problem due to the poor fit of the connector block to the bulb holder. Putting stuff in the boot and dislodging the connector is very common and all you need to to is fiddle about with it until the lights work again. There are a couple of solutions here and I'm sure those that have come up with the ideas will be along shortly.
Don't worry about the aerial. No one else does!
Earths! A frequent issue on here. On the V8S there is one either side of the engine bay attached to the diagonal bracing tube running down to the front out-rigger tube, and another one from the battery which goes through the tub and attached to the chassis near the fuel tank support. The V6 may have a similar arrangement.
If you still have the original earth straps, it wouldn't do any harm to replace all of them and clean up all the terminals.
Good luck and have fun
The rear lights are a common problem due to the poor fit of the connector block to the bulb holder. Putting stuff in the boot and dislodging the connector is very common and all you need to to is fiddle about with it until the lights work again. There are a couple of solutions here and I'm sure those that have come up with the ideas will be along shortly.
Don't worry about the aerial. No one else does!
Earths! A frequent issue on here. On the V8S there is one either side of the engine bay attached to the diagonal bracing tube running down to the front out-rigger tube, and another one from the battery which goes through the tub and attached to the chassis near the fuel tank support. The V6 may have a similar arrangement.
If you still have the original earth straps, it wouldn't do any harm to replace all of them and clean up all the terminals.
Good luck and have fun
Hi Jason,
Sorry to hear of your problems. I does sound like they are caused by an issue with an earth lead. I've recently had the same issues. Being a plastic car, there are earth straps all over the place and even from S3 to S3 they can differ in location. My advice would be to go round and under the car methodically and take eack one off in turn and clean it. I'm talking large woven wire staps that bolt to the chassis rather than piddly little spade or bullet connectors, though it could be these in the end, but best try the big obvious ones first that are exposed to the elements.
Andy
Sorry to hear of your problems. I does sound like they are caused by an issue with an earth lead. I've recently had the same issues. Being a plastic car, there are earth straps all over the place and even from S3 to S3 they can differ in location. My advice would be to go round and under the car methodically and take eack one off in turn and clean it. I'm talking large woven wire staps that bolt to the chassis rather than piddly little spade or bullet connectors, though it could be these in the end, but best try the big obvious ones first that are exposed to the elements.
Andy
Hi, the click from the starter motor can be a number of things.
1. Check the earthing strap which runs to the gear box mounting (on my S2)
2. The starter motors get extremely hot and the solenoid mounted on top of the starter often fails. On mine it was an intermittent fault, usually when hot. You can replace the solenoid for about £30 from memory. Bit fiddly to do but quite possible.
3. Check the main power cable from the battery has clean terminals.
1. Check the earthing strap which runs to the gear box mounting (on my S2)
2. The starter motors get extremely hot and the solenoid mounted on top of the starter often fails. On mine it was an intermittent fault, usually when hot. You can replace the solenoid for about £30 from memory. Bit fiddly to do but quite possible.
3. Check the main power cable from the battery has clean terminals.
S2Andy said:
Hi, the click from the starter motor can be a number of things.
1. Check the earthing strap which runs to the gear box mounting (on my S2)
2. The starter motors get extremely hot and the solenoid mounted on top of the starter often fails. On mine it was an intermittent fault, usually when hot. You can replace the solenoid for about £30 from memory. Bit fiddly to do but quite possible.
3. Check the main power cable from the battery has clean terminals.
Hi Jason, dont be disheartened, you will sort it and enjoy the driving in the sunshine... 1. Check the earthing strap which runs to the gear box mounting (on my S2)
2. The starter motors get extremely hot and the solenoid mounted on top of the starter often fails. On mine it was an intermittent fault, usually when hot. You can replace the solenoid for about £30 from memory. Bit fiddly to do but quite possible.
3. Check the main power cable from the battery has clean terminals.
I would add to this, that it is worth taking off the battery earth to the chassis giving that a good clean and re-attaching as it affects all other earths.
I don't think the two problems are related.
The starting problems can be caused by several factors and you may need to address more than one issue to resolve it:
weak battery
poor connection at the battery terminals, or battery-to-chassis earth, or engine-to-chassis earth, or battery-to-solenoid positive
poor connection between the ignition switch and the main loom in the steering column (the dreaded yellow connector)
alarm/immobiliser intercepting the connection between the switch and the solenoid
loose connection from the loom to the solenoid
solenoid corroded, gunked up or heat damaged
The starting problems can be caused by several factors and you may need to address more than one issue to resolve it:
weak battery
poor connection at the battery terminals, or battery-to-chassis earth, or engine-to-chassis earth, or battery-to-solenoid positive
poor connection between the ignition switch and the main loom in the steering column (the dreaded yellow connector)
alarm/immobiliser intercepting the connection between the switch and the solenoid
loose connection from the loom to the solenoid
solenoid corroded, gunked up or heat damaged
AutoAndy said:
Hi Jason, dont be disheartened, you will sort it and enjoy the driving in the sunshine...
I would add to this, that it is worth taking off the battery earth to the chassis giving that a good clean and re-attaching as it affects all other earths.
Not only the battery to the chassis, but also the battery leads and posts.I would add to this, that it is worth taking off the battery earth to the chassis giving that a good clean and re-attaching as it affects all other earths.
Starter motor - start with the earth straps and battery connections. Glen over on the Wedge forum was having similar issues and the cables were like breadsticks. they crumbled as soon as he touched them.
If you do change them then up size them as they are skinny to begin with.
As for the rear lights. The vast majority of the time it is the terrible Ford connector block. I have swapped this out for some narrow spade connectors. Much more secure and less prone to disconnecting. Easy job, if a bit fiddley. I also wired in the second rear fog light at the same time.
If you do change them then up size them as they are skinny to begin with.
As for the rear lights. The vast majority of the time it is the terrible Ford connector block. I have swapped this out for some narrow spade connectors. Much more secure and less prone to disconnecting. Easy job, if a bit fiddley. I also wired in the second rear fog light at the same time.
Im having the same issue starting up, yet on a hot start it fires up with the turn of a key :/
Im in the process of renewing some of the earth straps etc so will let you know if it makes a difference, im currently missing the battery to chassis one, but do have battery to swirlpot which looks abit corroded & few strands broken
Im in the process of renewing some of the earth straps etc so will let you know if it makes a difference, im currently missing the battery to chassis one, but do have battery to swirlpot which looks abit corroded & few strands broken
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