Clutch problems

Clutch problems

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Discussion

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Sunday 15th May 2016
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I had a great day out driving with some friends in my 95 Chim 500, but on the way home it started to get difficult to go from 4th to 5th, when I next stopped at some lights I could only get it into 4th so I had to pull away like that, it did it quite easily, but next time I tried to change it wouldn't move out of 4th, so I did the last 20 miles like that and fortunately didn't have to stop until I got home, when I put the clutch in and braked the engine cut out, but a slow stop as if the clutch was partially operating.
If I press the clutch pedal it doesn't feel right, kind of soft, so I'm wondering if I have lost fluid or the master / slave have failed?
I have pushed the car into the garage, are there any recomended tests I can do to determine where the problem is?, I only have a single jack if I need to get underneath.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Paul

phazed

21,844 posts

203 months

Sunday 15th May 2016
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It sounds as if your clutch is not disconnecting.

It could be a number of things, leaking master cylinder, leaking slave cylinder but quite likely the clutch release fork which has failed .

This usually fails by the pivot punching a hole in the centre of the clutch release arm.

This can be checked from underneath the car by accessing the bellhousing through the aperture at the bottom.

If this is the case and you can check and renew if necessary without removal of the gearbox and bellhousing, but it is fiddly.

WOO5IE

931 posts

196 months

Sunday 15th May 2016
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As a first check see if the fluid level is OK. If you don't know the master cylinder is under the black cover on the off side.

It very often is not checked. You will need some Sikaflex or similar to reseat the cover when replacing

Had this on mine not long after I bought the car and had to replace the master cylinder within the next couple of years.

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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I will check the resevoir level today, it hasnt been ignored as i replaced the fluid earlier this year shortly after i bought the car, but is obviously an easy check.

To access the bellhousing is it enough to jack up the front of the car or from the side?

N7GTX

7,823 posts

142 months

Monday 16th May 2016
quotequote all
Jack up on the front crossmember just behind the bodywork. You can wriggle along and the access hole in the bell housing is amazingly big so you can see everything. Dont forget a torch or good light to inspect.

MisterT

322 posts

225 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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Don't go under the car with only a jack for support, you need to use axle stands or similar in case the jack slips or fails..

QBee

20,905 posts

143 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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You must have the patience of a saint, Paul. You have had more than your fair share of issues.

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
quotequote all
Hi QBee, yes I seem to have some challenges😀, although I guess I was rather lucky the clutch failed on the way home and it last operated with 20 miles to go and 5 roundabouts to negotiate in 4th gear only, also although my car has not cutout in over 1000 miles since you lent me your ECU, it did it twice yesterday😟, a bit embarrassing when I was leading a run out of 5 cars.
So obviously I need to fix the clutch, if the cutting out has started again I need to fix the hot start slow crank speed issue so at least I can reliably restart, somehow find the cause of cutting out and intermittent misfiring, then it's fix radio reception, a new set of carpets, new dash as my wood is severely cracked, and that's about it as far as I know at the moment, I would also like to rebuild the engine / replace the cams to get some power back and lift the body to paint the chassis, but I guess that's next year😊, all the joys of TVR ownership I guess😀
One thing yesterday though, I thought I could smell something very hot / burning while driving, even though I had the roof down, has anyone experienced this?

QBee

20,905 posts

143 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
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Check your HT leads aren't touching anything toasty.....

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
quotequote all
When I get under the bell housing can I see the dlave cylinder actuator? If so how far should it be moving? I'm guessing that I have some movement but maybe not enough to fully disengage the clutch
Paul

carsy

3,018 posts

164 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
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Its more than likley your master cylinder seal. If the internal rubber seal has failed the cylinder will still show full of fluid. Its just that when you push the pedal the fluid escapes back behind the piston rather than being pushed so there is very little movement. You can get a new seal kit part No. SP2102

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/repair-kit-fo...

I`d stick a new slave cylinder on as well for good measure.

Pupp

12,206 posts

271 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
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Clearly needs a concentric slave conversion smile

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
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What's one of those?

QBee

20,905 posts

143 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
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Paulprior said:
What's one of those?
Its where you get the wife and/or child to spin round and round in circles, eventually disappearing up their own fundament.
Its a way for geezers like us, who like cars, to reduce the demands on our time from family, and get some peace and quiet around the house and garage.
getmecoat

Pupp

12,206 posts

271 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
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Explained here

Only mentioned as I have been battling in the same territory for a few weeks (happily no-where near the domestic bliss of the QBee household)

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
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QBee suggestion could be useful😀

So I guess I need to get underneath and see if the pivot arm looks ok or if it's a cylinder problem, can the slave cylinder leak past its seal to give the same symptoms as the master cylinder? Or is just oil on one side of the piston with nowhere to bypass to at the front apart from the floor?

Pupp

12,206 posts

271 months

Wednesday 18th May 2016
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If fluid is getting past the piston seal on either master or slave, it'll be obvious as a leak (there's nowhere for the fluid to hide). Suspect you're more likely to have problems with the master and don't forget the internal return spring in this can/does also break for the fun of it (doesn't usually result in no clutch but can make the action feel very odd). The master seal and spring can be done from the footwell if you don't fancy changing the whole unit; the springs can be tricky to source.

The pivot is a notorious failure point but will be pretty obvious to see any problem with the bung out - easy to change once you familiarise your self with how the clips on the pivot ball and pushrod work.

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Friday 20th May 2016
quotequote all
So all my clutch fluid has gone from the master cylinder and i have a small pool of a clear liquid half way under the car level with the door hinge, so i guess its the slave cylinder leaking, where do i get one without resorting to online, Landrover maybe?

Is it possible to jack the car from the side on the outriggers?, my jack wont go in far enough to get to the front brace before it hits the bodywork

Plan B

347 posts

124 months

Friday 20th May 2016
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Drive the car onto a thick block of wood so that the front wheels are a couple of inches above the ground. That will give you enough height to get a jack under the chassi rail. Obviously and essentially you need to get at least one axle stand in there before you crawl under the car. Be careful if the car is balanced on one axle stand and you are tugging on a wrench to loosen the slave cylinder. Personally I jack up the car so I can get wheel ramps under the wheels and also use an axle stand for a belt and braces approach.
The slave cylinder is fairly low cost and as such I wouldn't bother trying to save a few pounds by sourcing from Landrover or eBay. If you source from the usual TVR supply chain then at least you know you are getting one with the correct bore.

Paulprior

Original Poster:

864 posts

104 months

Friday 20th May 2016
quotequote all
So all my clutch fluid has gone from the master cylinder and i have a small pool of a clear liquid half way under the car level with the door hinge, so i guess its the slave cylinder leaking, where do i get one without resorting to online, Landrover maybe?

Is it possible to jack the car from the side on the outriggers?, my jack wont go in far enough to get to the front brace before it hits the bodywork

Just been under for a look, its not clear where the leak is as there is a bit of oil on many areas, i guess i need to refill it, clean as much as possible and keep an eye on it