Engine noise

[ChrisGadd]

Top Gear TVR said:

has the sump taken a clowt from a poorly placed jack / stand or similar?

Not that I'm aware of, I think I'll have to get someone else to crank the engine over and lie under the engine to see if the noise is coming from the sump.

[ChrisGadd]

The Beaver King said:

On a scale of 1 - 10, 1 being whisper quiet and 10 being 'Holy crap, she's gonna blow!', how loud is the knocking?

I have a theory based on my own experience, but the knock would need to be pretty loud (7-10 range).

I'd say a 5 - 6 but do enlighten me on your theory it could be something I need to consider

[ChrisGadd]

HvdWeerden said:

Search function !

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=376...

Thanks Han most useful

[Boosted LS1]

If you have solid lifters there will be zero 'give' if you try to push the pushrod downwards. If they're hydraulics you may feel a slight spongyness especially if they're not pumped up fully.

[ChrisGadd]

Latest update .... I have now discovered the source of the banging noise. After asking my lovely assistant to crank over the engine whilst laying under the car it was obvious straight away that the crank was catching the sump so whilst jacking the front of the engine up to get the gearbox back in I must have buckled/dented the sump

So next questions are ...

Is there anything I can do to the sump without removing it to try and straighten it?

Can the sump be easily removed without removing the engine from the car and any tips help would be much appreciated.

[SS2.]

Top Gear TVR said:

has the sump taken a clowt from a poorly placed jack / stand or similar?

My cap is doffed, sir..

[phillpot]

ChrisGadd said:

Is there anything I can do to the sump without removing it to try and straighten it?

weld a nut on to screw a slide hammer into?

ChrisGadd said:

Can the sump be easily removed without removing the engine from the car and any tips help would be much appreciated.

It's engine out unless you have the removable cross member modification.

[Boosted LS1]

^ I wouldn't want to weld onto a sump that's got oil and fumes in it. I suppose the engine oil could be drained and the rocker covers, dipstick removed. Let the engine stand 'vented' for a few days. Or even blow air through it.

I like the welded nut idea though.

[Barkychoc]

Drain the oil and try to push it down with a rod in the sump plug hole?
I'm guessing there's not much access and it sounds unlikely to work but worth a try?

It might be worth enquiring at ford to see if the sump is still a stock item?
I recently bought a genuine sump from Subaru for my son's impreza and it was £100, you would hope a ford sump would be significantly less.

[Boosted LS1]

I think it'll be a rod catching at the shallow front part of the sump?

[ChrisGadd]

Boosted LS1 said:

I think it'll be a rod catching at the shallow front part of the sump?

Certainly what I suspect as well having listened to the hollow sound and by placing my hand underneath. Also it only catches the sump in one place when rotating the engine. So I suppose I could work out roughly where the crank is catching?

Edited by ChrisGadd on Monday 13th June 14:10

Edited by ChrisGadd on Monday 13th June 14:11

[mk1fan]

How about using some of those dent repair kits that bond / glue a tab on. Don't see why it wouldn't work on a sump.

[greymrj]

Phillpots idea of welding a nut on is actually well worth considering, it is an old technique that does work. Dont worry about doing it with the oil in either. It is far safer to weld a vessel with the fluid in than the fumes. The oil will help keep it cool and limit distortion. The oil wont burn, there is no oxygen at the bottom of the sump, I doubt you will even see any fumes rise. While a slide hammer would be nice I think I would just get a long bar/tube and put a hole in it, bolt through the hole to the nut then use the bar against some part of the chassis and lever it down. A bigger nut, to spread the load and heat, would be better than a small one.
Good luck

[magpies]

greymrj said:

Phillpots idea of welding a nut on is actually well worth considering, it is an old technique that does work. Dont worry about doing it with the oil in either. It is far safer to weld a vessel with the fluid in than the fumes. The oil will help keep it cool and limit distortion. The oil wont burn, there is no oxygen at the bottom of the sump, I doubt you will even see any fumes rise. While a slide hammer would be nice I think I would just get a long bar/tube and put a hole in it, bolt through the hole to the nut then use the bar against some part of the chassis and lever it down. A bigger nut, to spread the load and heat, would be better than a small one.
Good luck

absolutely this - largest nut possible and two good strong tack welds on opposite sides

[Blue 30]

Or...
If you haven't got a welder handy.
Clean the sump thoroughly around the dented area & stick your nut on with such as JB Weld, leave it at least 24hrs before you go pulling the dent out. Then hacksaw/file/grind through the JB to release the nut.
TerryB

[Alan461]

Weld a nut/staple to a piece of steel plate maybe 3" dia and glue it on with CT1/Sikaflex etc.
Then you can fix it without heat and remove it with a knife when finished.

[magpies]

If you can - use a straight edge both sideways and longways to see where the depression is first - then you should know where to attach the nut

[Scoobimax]

Glad you've identified the source of the noise.

I believe Potless Paul had to change his sump (actual crack if memory serves). I don't know if he did it engine in situ, has the modified cross member or ended up modifying it - be worth a quick message to him.

[tofts]

Also agree with the welding, and to do it with oil in. Much safer. Just don't burn a hole in it!

[Top Gear TVR]

Happy to help.

Can you get a dent puller on it?

Welding a nut is possible but beware not to pull a hole

SS2. said:

Top Gear TVR said:

has the sump taken a clowt from a poorly placed jack / stand or similar?

My cap is doffed, sir..