Discussion
I think you might have a problem there, if it is the type I think it is. It is designed to pull out a small dent in body panels. I suspect, if it has been done with a jack on the relatively thick steel of the sump, you will have a dent which is bigger that the 'spread' of the legs of this puller? It might be possible to find a way to put something between the puller and the sump to effectively widen the base, a piece of plywood with a cut out perhaps, but I am not sure if the puller can be made to reach?. Let us know how you get on.
Boosted LS1 said:
....Surely if he fits the screw from the inside that'll be fine?
Good luck with that one. Reading through this thread I can't help thinking that, apart from Phillpot's suggestion to tack a nut onto the dent, the quickest solution in the long run is to to bite the bullet and lift the engine and take the sump off. Then do the cross-member mod whilst you're at it.v8s4me said:
Good luck with that one. Reading through this thread I can't help thinking that, apart from Phillpot's suggestion to tack a nut onto the dent, the quickest solution in the long run is to to bite the bullet and lift the engine and take the sump off. Then do the cross-member mod whilst you're at it.
Whoosh :-)A friend of mine had a similar problem after putting together an engine with a long throw crank. As far as I remember he sorted it by dropping the sump with the oil still in it, and beating the bottom out with a lump hammer and drift. No, I don't get it either. Apparently it wasn't as messy as you'd have thought, but still not a strategy I'd recommend.
^ I had to beat the crap out of one once for the same reasons and it's hard work. Iirc I put the sump on a sand bag and then whacked it. The 500's have a dent in them to provide for rod clearance.
It would be a lot easier to heat the metal up with a welding torch and then do the whacking. Might be able to get a friendly garage to lower the sump (engine in situ) before heating and beating it.
It would be a lot easier to heat the metal up with a welding torch and then do the whacking. Might be able to get a friendly garage to lower the sump (engine in situ) before heating and beating it.
Boosted LS1 said:
... Might be able to get a friendly garage to lower the sump (engine in situ) before heating and beating it.
Maybe that friendly garage would cut off the cross-member, drop and repair the sump and do the cross-member mod? Then if the refitted sump leaks (even money?) it won't be a major hassle to have another go at it.Recently had the sump off my Taimar (Essex V6) to knock out some dents but they were in the well, the deep bit. The metal is a lot thicker than your average door skin, wing etc. but a few whacks with a large hammer and a lump of wood soon sorted it. Biggest problem was getting a good straight hit because there is a baffle plate welded in.
Getting back to the S, would the sump drop far enough to get any sort of access and a decent "hit" on the dent?
Hopefully that clever dicky dent puller thing will do the job?
Plan of action whilst waiting for the dent puller is to find out which bit of the crank is catching the sump. So plan is to remove the spark plugs and turn the engine until I can hear the knock and then get a thin piece of wire and see which cylinder is a BDC. At least this way I will know which part of the sump needs attention.
If you can get it up on some form of ramp again (even a DIY tapered ramp) and get the engine running, and you are brave enough to go under when it is running (nobody anywhere near the gearlever!!) then get a long screwdriver or even a length of dowel, put one end to your ear and the other to the sump and run it slowly along. Believe me, when you get to the point of contact you will notice the difference in noise!!!
At my age how could I be anything else! One day I thought I would be clever and used an old stethoscope.....damn near deafened me!If you do try welding it, I'd drain the oil personally. The theories on it being safer with a full sump are fair, but the sump is made of monkey metal (like most of the engine 
) and if you manage to blow a hole in it while welding AND with a sump-full of oil, you'll end up with a welding torch full of oil!
) and if you manage to blow a hole in it while welding AND with a sump-full of oil, you'll end up with a welding torch full of oil!ChrisGadd said:
I think if it gets to the point of fixing a nut to the underside of the sump I'll use something like JB weld
Rather than glueing it directly, I'd suggest welding the nut to a plate and then glueing that - the glue strength will be the limiting factor so increasing the glue area will give you a much better chance.
Kitchski said:
if you manage to blow a hole in it while welding AND with a sump-full of oil, you'll end up with a welding torch full of oil!
surely the oil will be in the deep part of the sump and the damage is to the shallow part?Think arc or mig would be a safer bet than oxy/acetylene?
............. but I'd still drain the oil
Many years ago I overfilled an engine and the sound of the crank hitting the oil was horrendous!
Edited by phillpot on Thursday 16th June 23:18
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