TVR S Bonnet Hinges

[TVR05]

Hi all

Got myself in a spot of bother and require some assistance if available please...........

I was adjusting the bonnet hinges on the V8S yesterday and the left hand side hinge snapped while tightening, so the bonnet is now unhinged and unsafe to drive, arghhhhhh.............

Therefore, I am in dire need of a replacement hinge, ideally I would like a set of stainless steel ones if some are about or happy to locate a used one, is there someone out there who maybe able to help.

If you have any are for sale, please PM me direct

Thank you for reading and happy tiving........

[v8s4me]

Which bit snapped? Got a photo?

[TVR05]

It has split on the 'T' junction thread thingy between the locking nuts, terminal tin worm at work here

[v8s4me]

Easy fix using a rose joint.



If you need an explanation I'll post one this evening. Right now I'm packing for the EuroTour

Was someone organising some high tensile stainless studding for the bonnet hinges????

[TVR05]

Thank you very much for that and if its not to much trouble for the explanation please, that would be fantastic.

[mk1fan]

Pretty simple really. Buy;

two male rose joints (one righthand, one lefthand thread)
one turnbuckle shaft
two locking nuts (one righthand, one lefthand thread)

I think M12 size would do but M14 is more than enought.

To get the correct length turnbuckle then measure the overall length of the existing shaft from centre of hinge thread to centre of bonnet connector thread. You'll find that turnbuckles are sold with the legth range they offer with rose joints fitted.

Megills on evilbay have a load of them in various sizes.

[v8s4me]

They say a picture paints a thousand words....



Does it?

While you're about it you might as well order a couple of extra rose joints and modify the seat belt...

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

McGill's contact details are on this thread.

[mk1fan]

Ooppps, ignore my bit about turnbuckle unless you want to replace the boss and mount plate on the bonnet with a plain plate then bolt the rose joint through the plates.

[v8s4me]

Remove the bolt 'A' and discard the broken bit...



Then remove the other bolt 'X' and cut off the head. Clean up all the threads and screw the new rose-joint onto the now headless bolt 'X'. Reassemble as shown in my photo above. The threads are probably M12 but you'll need to check.

You don't really need all the other shiny bits, they are just for show. Beware of using long lengths of stainless studding because it is quite likely to snap. You're much safer sticking with mild steel which is more likely to bend than snap. Is you make the threaded parts look a bit smarter you can cover them with some odd bits of heater hose.

mk1fan said:

Ooppps, ignore my bit about turnbuckle unless you want to replace the boss and mount plate on the bonnet with a plain plate then bolt the rose joint through the plates.

You've lost me on this one Stewart. How does this work?

[mk1fan]

The plate on the bonnet has a threaded boss welded on it. Replace this with just a flat plate and drill three holes. Bolt them all together and Bob's you Aunt.

[v8s4me]

My brain hurts. Can you post a photo?

On mine, the "boss" on the plate attached to the bonnet is just a tube and not threaded. This was the same on the original, the stainless set in the picture above, and the set which is on there currently. The nuts on the studding butt up to either side of the tube adjust the fore & aft position of the hinge.

[mk1fan]

Can't post a picture. Just throw the plate with the tube on it away. Replace with just a piece of flat plate. Then bolt the second rosejoint through it along with the other mounting bolts into the plywood of the bonnet.

[v8s4me]

I see. But wouldn't the bonnet then pivot at two points? One at the chassis and again at the wooden boards on the bonnet? And wouldn't that put a lot of stress on just one point on the board?

Edited by v8s4me on Monday 23 May 23:58

[mk1fan]

Good point bout the second rotation. As there would be three bolts through the ply then I doubt it would be more stressed than it is now.

ignore the second rosejoint.

[TVR05]

Thanks for all your advise and pointers guys, much appreciated.

Enjoy the Euro tour

[phillpot]

TVR05 said:

It has split on the 'T' junction thread thingy between the locking nuts, terminal tin worm at work here

If those "locknuts" are tightened the bit in between won't be able to turn as the bonnet is opened, that would put an undue strain on the weld?


Welding looks sh#t but, to be fair it has lasted 20 or more years. Can you not just get it re-welded?

[phillpot]

Looking for something else and found these in the shed..............

[tvrgit]

phillpot said:

Welding looks sh#t but, to be fair it has lasted 20 or more years. Can you not just get it re-welded?

How dare you come up with a simple (and blindingly obvious) solution, to an engineering challenge that would have had Gustav Eiffel scratching his rivets (he didn't use nuts) and saying "Sacre Bleu!"

There's always one who spoils the party.