Engine out, Bonnet Off.. Blingmeister shall return!
Discussion
There are plenty of brush-on paints that would do a job on a TVR chassis. The reason we don't offer them is twofold: Labour time, and finish. For the cost in labour to paint it by hand, even if you had it shot blasted before hand, you could just have it professionally powder coated or wet sprayed. The finish is much better, and though plenty of people say "I don't care what it looks like" other people do, and that affects future value, so it's not just as simple as 'what stops rust the best?' Personally, I went for shot blast, hot zinc spray (like galvanising), primer and a 2k polyurethane wet spray. Most of the chassis we do go the same route, though some still prefer powder coating.
If you're going brush on however, Rustbuster is a 2k epoxy mastic I'd recommend. The black finish always comes out better (though black masks rust too) and if you mix it right it goes off hard as nails.
If you're going brush on however, Rustbuster is a 2k epoxy mastic I'd recommend. The black finish always comes out better (though black masks rust too) and if you mix it right it goes off hard as nails.
You'll be lucky if you don't end up with a hole in at least one of those rear arm hangers after shot blasting. And you really do need to get that one shot blasted, you're cheating yourself if you don't. Don't be one of those people who thinks wire-brushing is as effective
It'll be good when done though
It'll be good when done though
Kitchski said:
You'll be lucky if you don't end up with a hole in at least one of those rear arm hangers after shot blasting. And you really do need to get that one shot blasted, you're cheating yourself if you don't. Don't be one of those people who thinks wire-brushing is as effective
It'll be good when done though
yeah theres bound to be a swiss cheese effect somewhere, its being shotblasted tomorrow, as you said 'do it right, do it once'It'll be good when done though
Kitchski said:
If you're going brush on however, Rustbuster is a 2k epoxy mastic I'd recommend. The black finish always comes out better (though black masks rust too) and if you mix it right it goes off hard as nails.
I used something similar when re-painting my chassis. A two component PU/epoxy based paint. As Kitchski says, it goes on well and really is very tough. I did mine by hand with a roller/brush (because I'm a mean ol' git !) and it took me 10 hours to completely cover the chassis with one coat of paint. Put on 3 coats in total. Quite a relaxing job really, with Radio-6 on in the background.
TVRees said:
I used something similar when re-painting my chassis. A two component PU/epoxy based paint. As Kitchski says, it goes on well and really is very tough. I did mine by hand with a roller/brush (because I'm a mean ol' git !) and it took me 10 hours to completely cover the chassis with one coat of paint. Put on 3 coats in total.
Quite a relaxing job really, with Radio-6 on in the background.
or maybe some drum'n'bass on loud & go at it like an absolute madman for a few hours Quite a relaxing job really, with Radio-6 on in the background.
greyhulk said:
thanks, think i know what route to go now
in oppose to zinc primer & powdercoating to the chassis, has anyone tried 'U-POL Raptor' they use it on marine vehicles etc, looks to be really sturdy stuff, waterproof, rustproof, the full works
http://www.u-pol.co.uk/product-cat/83/raptor%E2%84...
greyhulk, I've used tintable Raptor on the complete underside of my MGB. It's a superb finish, super tough and is very easy to spray [though be very careful, it's 2k with isocyanates!] Interestingly, the B is now sporting a 4.0 V8 Griffith engine with R380 'box in oppose to zinc primer & powdercoating to the chassis, has anyone tried 'U-POL Raptor' they use it on marine vehicles etc, looks to be really sturdy stuff, waterproof, rustproof, the full works
http://www.u-pol.co.uk/product-cat/83/raptor%E2%84...
Edited by v8250 on Friday 15th July 09:10
Hi v8250, nice to hear someone has used the raptor, never seen it on a classic car until now & wow the finish is better than i initially thought, looks awesome! 4litre v8 griff in there . I dont suppose it was you parked next to me at the classic car meet up at the 'Black Boy' in Knowle last month?
Ive got the starter kit in black & going to use it on the complete chassis & few parts like battery tray, fuel tank etc
Ive got the starter kit in black & going to use it on the complete chassis & few parts like battery tray, fuel tank etc
greyhulk said:
Hi v8250, nice to hear someone has used the raptor, never seen it on a classic car until now & wow the finish is better than i initially thought, looks awesome! 4litre v8 griff in there . I dont suppose it was you parked next to me at the classic car meet up at the 'Black Boy' in Knowle last month?
Ive got the starter kit in black & going to use it on the complete chassis & few parts like battery tray, fuel tank etc
The word's getting out at just how good this product is, the Yanks swear by it for lining their truck beds and some WRC teams use it on the underside of their rally cars; it's super tough. I liked it so much I even resprayed the interior of the B! Though, a word of warning, do cover up and use proper 2k breathing mask, goggles and coveralls. 2k isocyante is a serious carcinogenic. I used the Gerson 2k mask, it's a must when spraying 2k http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_tr...Ive got the starter kit in black & going to use it on the complete chassis & few parts like battery tray, fuel tank etc
PS wasn't me in Knowle
PS2 if you haven't a spray gun set up, I bought one of these...they're superb and give an excellent schutz finish from the standard nozzle http://www.sprayguns.co.uk/Apollo_Spraymaster_1200...
greyhulk said:
few snaps of the progress so far, lawrieS you was right about the outriggers!
Also the rear RH body mount is none existent
Told you shotblasting it was a no brainer. There are others who would have just patched those outriggers up, lathered it in Hammerite and Waxoyl and then decreed that their chassis was sound. They're not, they very rarely are! Best original S chassis I've ever seen was Paul's V8S, and that just needed corners at the front and a couple of tiny bits at the back.Also the rear RH body mount is none existent
The worst? Michael?? You there??
(still doing his S2 now, poor sod!)
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