Diff overhaul

[SteveOS3]

I've just had news that the CV joints and diff' need attention. I have someone to overhaul the diff and seen CV joints on Ebay but am not sure if the inner/outer and left/right CV's are the same. Ebay link here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CV-Joint-PJ11N-C-V-...


I'd also like to replace the rear suspension and diff bushes whilst it's all out. Do we have any part numbers or sizes for these that I can search for?

Any tips on order of removal of the dirveshafts and diff' would be appreciated!

Many Thanks,

Steve

Edited by SteveOS3 on Wednesday 13th July 10:07

Edited by SteveOS3 on Wednesday 13th July 14:21

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi.
You first need to find out if your drive shafts are push in of bolt on type before you buy any thing.

Alan

[phillpot]

A bit of Google searching will answer most of your questions, all four are the same, no inner outer left or right. i think the ones you have linked to on Ebay are ok but double check, don't take my word for it!


"Pistonheads TVR S series CV Joints" brought up this ... clicky and many more

Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 13th July 15:23

[SteveOS3]

Cheers Philpott, I read those threads earlier and will get in touch with J&R.

Does anyone have info' on the rear suspension bush sizes and the diff' bush?

Steve

[magpies]

I just spotted this
eBay item number:252444625746

I have no connection to the seller and cannot vouch for its condition

[phillpot]

SteveOS3 said:

Does anyone have info' on the rear suspension bush sizes and the diff' bush?

Try this one for trailing arm bushes.

Alternatively "Poly bushes" are available. Try Powerflex or Superflex websites

Front diff mounts also available in Poly (not cheap!) don't know if original spec rubber ones are still available?

The big rear diff mount is Ford, now obsolete, after market Poly versions are available. Search Ebay "Sierra Cosworth diff mount"


just out of interest what is wrong with your "diff", they're normally pretty tough old things?

[zombeh]

SteveOS3 said:

Any tips on order of removal of the dirveshafts and diff' would be appreciated!

Assuming that an S3 is roughly the same as a V8...

undo the hub nut (FT), the inner cv joint bolts and the bottom shock bolt.
Lift the trailing arm up, lift the inner end of the shaft and slide it in over the top of the diff until the stub just about clears the hub, it'll land on the trailing arm.
Lower the trailing arm until the stub clears the arm, be careful not to jam the inner joint on the diff.
Remove the shaft, do the joints on the bench in the warm and dry.

When you refit the shafts be very careful to make sure the threads are absolutely spotless and use locktite 243

NB. the hub nuts may well be (are supposed to be) handed. Check for left hand thread.

Not sure about the diff other than it's not the same as the v8

[TVRees]

Diff top bushes available here ....

http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF1...

Not cheap !

[phillpot]

zombeh said:

undo the hub nut ..............

Could do it that way I guess but there's no need to disturb those big nuts, six bolts out of each end of drive shaft and it'll drop out.

Think diff removal is pretty logical once you get under there a have a look. It's quite heavy don't have your head underneath it when the last bolt comes out

[GreenV8S]

phillpot said:

just out of interest what is wrong with your "diff", they're normally pretty tough old things?

I wore the teeth off mine. Don't remember the mileage but I think it would have been in the region of 100K miles, which I suspect many S series are past by now.

[TVRees]

When taking out the four times six bolts, make sure that the heads are clean and that the torx bit is well inserted into the bolt head recess.
All of mine came out without any problems.

[phillpot]

GreenV8S said:

I wore the teeth off mine.

There's always one!




Looks like I might not be the only thing loosing its teeth with old age...

Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 13th July 20:56

[GreenV8S]

Your mileage may vary, but I found that some of those CV mounting screws were extremely marginal and by the time I'd persuaded them to come out I didn't fancy reusing them. If you replace them, make sure to use HT screws - I don't think 12.9 grade is overkill here.

[TVRees]

magpies said:

. .. cannot vouch for its condition

It's certainly very rusty. That doesn't say much for the condition of the rubber.

[SteveOS3]

Thanks for all the advice gents.

The car's done 107k and looking back through the history there was a diff repair invoice from about 10 years ago, but no details. There is an oil leak and my mechanic friend says that there is excessive play in the propshaft end.

I've been spraying the nuts & bolts with PlusGas for the last few days; the suspension fixings are all free but the the torx on the cv's are not moving yet. They are not too rusty and I've got a good set of bits so patience will be the key.

Island 4x4 Landrover have the trailing arm bushes at 0.89p via Phillpot's link above. I'll have to take a good look at the diff bushes given the price of replacement.

Phone call to J&R should sort the cv's.

I'll try to remember to take photo's and post up as a guide.

Thanks again,

Steve

[TVRees]

SteveOS3 said:

I've been spraying the nuts & bolts with PlusGas for the last few days; the suspension fixings are all free but the the torx on the cv's are not moving yet. They are not too rusty and I've got a good set of bits so patience will be the key

Use a long'ish bar, tap the bit fully into the bolt head and there will be a loud click when the torx bolts move for the first time. Due to the threadlock.

[zombeh]

phillpot said:

Could do it that way I guess but there's no need to disturb those big nuts

I suppose it depends on what tools you have to hand and how much you hate trying to undo those horrible little torx bolts

I forget that taking the driveshafts off isn't a common occurrence for most people.

[SteveOS3]

Hmmmm,

looks like someone else tried to get the torx bolts out beforehand.



I've been the owner for 8 years so I'm thinking it's well and truly rusted and jammed.

I'm thinking heat followed by a spotwelding on of a socket or similar, I'll let the experts down the garage decide..........

[phillpot]

SteveOS3 said:

Hmmmm, I'm thinking heat followed by a spotwelding on of a socket or similar, I'll let the experts down the garage decide..........

Mmmmm heat? lots of lovely grease to ignite, and would it really get into where the thread is?

When I first did mine some were incredibly tight and some rounded off. there weren't tight as in seized they were just tight so once the heads had been sliced off with a slitting disc the remains of the bolt could be unscrewed by hand

[SteveOS3]

Thanks, that's a good idea.

Steve

Edited by SteveOS3 on Thursday 14th July 20:40