Fuel Filter connector replacements identification?

Fuel Filter connector replacements identification?

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Discussion

Juddder

Original Poster:

844 posts

184 months

Sunday 31st July 2016
quotequote all
Happy Sunny Weekend everyone smile

In the fun world that is Cerbera land I now have to replace the fuel pipes that connect to the Fuel Filter, and while I'm at it I might as well do the one from the Fuel Pump to the bottom of the Fuel Filter too, so my question is can anyone identify what size the AN6 Banjo connector should be to fit to the FRAM G3831 Fuel Filter from the following photos?

If buba is on the forums then he used exactly the ones I want on his Fuel Filter / Fuel Pump pipe replacement here but missed out the part numbers, but luckily I have most of the other part numbers I need due to the excellent post from billybradshaw on his post here

Thanks you guys!

The good news is that it meant that I corrected the alt. part list with the correct FRAM part number so a positive win there wink

Also, anyone sourced a replacement bracket as I could do with doing that at the same time too?

My FRAM fuel filter (yes, I've just ordered a new one from Amazon @ £18 - happy days)







The connectors I need from buba



Showing a close up of the one of the fuel pump



and just how are we meant to get into this gap to unbolt this one !?!?


Revvit

333 posts

119 months

Sunday 31st July 2016
quotequote all
You can get a replacement fuel filter bracket from TVR Parts

http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-l0...

Shanksy87

373 posts

122 months

Sunday 31st July 2016
quotequote all
Assuming the fram filter is the same as the standard you need M14 x 1.5 banjo fittings. The filter out to body hard line hose coupling is a mare, I did it with help and the suspension and diff removed, still got scared the corrosion would result in a snapped hardline. Also note this fitting uses a compression olive to seal.

To get the filter out you need to remove the bracket completely, the nuts behind the rear seats are not secured so you'll need help for this, unless you happen to have 10ft arms. Also the mounting grommets will likely be shot, so get some new ones first, and stainless M5 bolts.

HTH

Juddder

Original Poster:

844 posts

184 months

Monday 1st August 2016
quotequote all
Shanksy87 said:
Assuming the fram filter is the same as the standard you need M14 x 1.5 banjo fittings.
Many thanks - that would look like this might be be the right part then for the Fuel Filter then?



Shanksy87 said:
The filter out to body hard line hose coupling is a mare, I did it with help and the suspension and diff removed, still got scared the corrosion would result in a snapped hardline. Also note this fitting uses a compression olive to seal.
Don't you just love TVR engineering! OK - so I think strategy here will be lots of WD-40 around the holding nut, and then very very gently undoing it from the hard line to avoid fracturing it or causing any damage. Other thoughts I had were to cut the hose off and join new hose to a short part of the existing hose as the leaking problem is in the middle of the existing hose, but that might be more trouble than worth

Shanksy87 said:
To get the filter out you need to remove the bracket completely, the nuts behind the rear seats are not secured so you'll need help for this, unless you happen to have 10ft arms.
Mine seems to be mounted on the boot side of the read wheel arch rather than the back seats side as the rear of the car is to the right in my photos. Maybe they just put them where they fancied!

Shanksy87 said:
Also the mounting grommets will likely be shot, so get some new ones first, and stainless M5 bolts.

HTH
Yes will do and yes it does help hugely - many thanks!!

Shanksy87

373 posts

122 months

Monday 1st August 2016
quotequote all
Those banjo fittings look the ticket, and very colourful.

Reference the filter bracket mounting, it may well be different between TVR's but I thought like you that it mounted into the boot. After a lot of swearing it turned out you need to reach behind the rear seat which threw me for a while as naturally I started this task on my own. If looking at the filter from the wheel arch, on the left running down to the outrigger is the seat back, above it arches at the top and down the other side to the filter, you need to reach behind the seat into the void between the boot and the cabin, essentially over the arch to get to the nuts.

AnimalMother

1,299 posts

226 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2016
quotequote all
Hi Alex, this is the filter I used on mine. ;-)

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/sytec-fuel-filter-...


So yes it 14x1.5mm in and out


That Banjo on eBay will do it. We'll make sure to add it to the Motamec range next batch.



This is the cap nut you asked about:

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/8mm-bosch-fuel-pum...


You may also need one of these:

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/sytec-one-way-valv...

Although Im not 100% sure thats the correct size, you may have to try it.




oh and the starter:

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/powerlite-tvr-cerb...



Edited by AnimalMother on Tuesday 2nd August 10:03

Jonbouy

239 posts

119 months

Friday 5th August 2016
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Judder

Is there any chance you could list the parts you have used for this and the other fuel pipe mods. I am interested in upgrading mine.

Jon

Juddder

Original Poster:

844 posts

184 months

Friday 5th August 2016
quotequote all
Jonbouy said:
Judder

Is there any chance you could list the parts you have used for this and the other fuel pipe mods. I am interested in upgrading mine.

Jon
Absolutely biggrin

I have a few parts stilling arriving, but when I have them all here I will list them out, measure the lengths of fuel hose you need, and document the whole thing

Much easier than trawling various threads to piece it all together for next time / next Cerbera!

Jonbouy

239 posts

119 months

Friday 5th August 2016
quotequote all
Juddder said:
Absolutely biggrin

I have a few parts stilling arriving, but when I have them all here I will list them out, measure the lengths of fuel hose you need, and document the whole thing

Much easier than trawling various threads to piece it all together for next time / next Cerbera!
Cheers Judder, I will look forward to it.

Jonbouy

239 posts

119 months

Saturday 13th August 2016
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Have you made any progress judder?

Juddder

Original Poster:

844 posts

184 months

Sunday 14th August 2016
quotequote all
So the sun has stopped play a little bit (hence I haven't managed to fit these this weekend as planned) however here's the complete shopping list of everything I bought

I have a few extra of some parts as I didn't want to get to the point where I was short

The bit I'm also debating is how to remove the 'olive' from the existing straight pipes as it appears to fit AN6 connectors to these, you need to remove the bump (the olive from the end) - I'm thinking one of those round pipe cutter tools would be the best way to do it, but would welcome any feedback

Alex

1. Motamec AN6 connectors

Motorsport-Tools.com
Motamec.com

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01J5TNY7W/ref=pe_3857...

MSTTP6090-06 - 3 x Motamec AN JIC -6 AN6 90 Degree Swivel Teflon PTFE Hose Fitting End Alloy Fuel Oil @ £11.07

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01J5TNVUC/ref=pe_3857...

MST0725-6-M - 6 x Motamec AN6 AN -6 PTFE Teflon Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Hose 1m Race Rally @ £10.05

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01J5TNLXY/ref=pe_3857...

MSTTP6001-06 - 8 x Motamec AN JIC -6 AN6 Straight Teflon PTFE Hose Fitting End Alloy Fuel Oil Aeroquip @ £5.38

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01J5TMKG8/ref=pe_3857...

MSTAN816-6-8D - 1 x Motamec AN -6 AN6 JIC to 1/2" NPT Straight Aluminium Alloy Fitting Adapter @ £3.55

2. Torques AN6 connectors

torques.co.uk

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

1 x AN -6 (AN6) Bosch 044 Fuel Pump Banjo Adapter and Cap @ £10.49

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171361618862

2 x AN -6 ( 6AN ) M14x1.5 Garrett GT Series Turbo Water Line Banjo + Bolt GT30 GT35R @ £14.99

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272161644158

6 x AN-6 Straight MALE to 5/16 8mm HARDLINE TUBE Compression Pipe Fitting Adapter @ £8.49

3. Cerbera specific parts

TVR Parts Ltd

http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-l0... @ £11.94

1 x Fuel filter mounting bracket

4. Fram

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DZJFLK2/ref=pe_1909...

1 x Fram G3831 Fuel filter @ £19.22

Edited by Juddder on Sunday 14th August 16:31

Jonbouy

239 posts

119 months

Friday 26th August 2016
quotequote all
Any further progress Judder?

Juddder

Original Poster:

844 posts

184 months

Sunday 18th September 2016
quotequote all
So here's the first hose made up - it's the one that goes from the rear passenger wheel arch body hard line, to the top of the fuel filter.

According to TVR Parts, there are two different lengths of this hose, but mine measured out as 24 inches so that's what I cut to

Also, because I can't actually reach all the way in to the inner of the car to disconnect the existing pipe, I have cut off the old pipe and will be (temporarily) using an AN to standard fuel hose adapter until I can get the car on a ramp at my local garage and replace that with a hard line pipe to AN hose connector properly







and here's a handy guide on how to cut the AN hose neatly

http://anfittingguide.com/install-braided-hose-fit...

BTW I'd also recommend everyone check their own fuel pipes in the back wheel arch - as you can see from the shots below mine had really perished, and not just where it had sprung a leak but the whole hose was disintegrating!





I also tried temporarily patching the fuel hose so that I could get the car to my local mechanics, but the fuel pressure is so high it literally blew the fuel hose patch tape to pieces (so don't buy Fuzion Self-Fusing Silione Tape as even though it's rated up to 8 Bar, the Cerb killed it in 10 seconds flat!)




Poopdog

166 posts

92 months

Tuesday 21st February 2017
quotequote all
Any updates on the fuel hoses as this is a hot topic at the moment and I would like to change mine

Juddder

Original Poster:

844 posts

184 months

Tuesday 21st February 2017
quotequote all
Poopdog said:
Any updates on the fuel hoses as this is a hot topic at the moment and I would like to change mine
So I worked with my local garage to put my Cerbera onto their ramp and this gave us enough access to get to the hard line fuel connector in the rear wheel arch (that goes through the body and exits into the engine bay under the coolant reservoir tank)

The original fuel filter pipe connector was rusted on so rather than risk snapping or bending the hard line fuel pipe we used a SnapOn Blue Line tubing cutter (about the size of small cigarette lighter) which we could get around the hardline

This is normally used for cutting brake line pipes and as it is so small, and doesn't produce any swarf [which could potentially go into the engine via the fuel system], we could cut the original end of the connector off to leave clean pipe to connect the new connector to

This meant the new AN6 hard line connector could be easily connected to the pipe and tightened and the car is now working properly again

I am yet to replace the rubber fuel pipes in the engine bay as those had not deteriorated when we inspected them but in light of the recent Blue Cerbera blaze (which I guess prompted your status update question) is definitely next on the list before I use car long distance again

I will post up some pictures over the weekend...

Snap On Blue Point Tubing Cutter




Edited by Juddder on Tuesday 21st February 23:02


Edited by Juddder on Wednesday 22 February 10:46

ukkid35

6,175 posts

173 months

Tuesday 21st February 2017
quotequote all
Poopdog said:
hot topic at the moment
Trying to be funny?

The thing is we are now in the sweet spot for classic cars with high pressure fuel systems.

I've lost count of the number of photos of burnt out cars I've seen due to compromised fuel lines.

In one of my less proud moments I even returned across the channel with a slightly weeping solid fuel line.

Insurance premiums don't seem to be affected because 3rd party costs (and entirely frivolous whiplash claims) are always going to trump total loss claims.

Juddder

Original Poster:

844 posts

184 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
quotequote all
So here's a picture of the replacement pipe connected

Because it was dark and a bit rainy tonight I didn't jack the car so you can't see the far side connection to the hard line, but you can imagine what it's like - it's basically like a hose clamp but in AN6 form and easily accessible from the bottom with a phillips screw driver to tighten





Also I recommend having one of these if you are worried about this kind of thing - totally fits out of the way and means you've got a fair chance of turning off the fuel pump and jumping out to open the bonnet before everything really causes problems...





Edited by Juddder on Wednesday 22 February 20:16

Poopdog

166 posts

92 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
quotequote all
[quote=ukkid35]

Trying to be funny?

totally unintentional I assure you, but it was a good one!!

Thanks for getting back on this post as I'm now doing mine as part of my light refurb.The diff is out as are all the wishbones so I would be silly not to do it.

aide

2,276 posts

164 months

Thursday 23rd February 2017
quotequote all
It might be safer to put the fire extinguisher behind the passenger seat.
I put my extinguisher behind the passenger seat and it's easily reachable.


TwinKam

2,977 posts

95 months

Thursday 23rd February 2017
quotequote all
Juddder said:
...
Because it was dark and a bit rainy tonight I didn't jack the car so you can't see the far side connection to the hard line, but you can imagine what it's like - it's basically like a hose clamp but in AN6 form and easily accessible from the bottom with a phillips screw driver to tighten

...
Does the hard-line have a swaged end? If not and it's just straight pipe, that's not a safe way to connect to it as, despite the pretty red (dummy) surround, it's not a mechanically sound connection. There are 'olive' type fittings available for this purpose.