Fuel Filter Issues
Discussion
Hi all,
I thought I would 'just' change my fuel filter this weekend to tackle some rough running issues but am having a bit of a nightmare...
I've got the new Crossland filter on (after a bit of drama getting the old one off) and have used the shiny new copper washers that came with it. I've done it up as tight as I possibly can, but after getting the system up to pressure, there is a very slight seepage of fuel coming out of both sides of each union. It is only very slight, i.e. enough to slowly change the colour union and make the line shiny, but that close to the exhaust, any is too much!!
Update for all those tacking this job in future: The fuel filter is on the back left hand side so to get access you will need to remove the back LHS wheel. To remove the filter you will need a 17mm socket to loosen the union on the right (as you look at it) and a 19mm socket to remove the one on the left. The system will likely still be under pressure, but not dangerously so, so loosen the unions slowly and put a cloth around it to stop it spurting fuel at you. Once you have a union completely undone you can bung up the holes using the rubber caps that come with the new filter. The system is no longer pressurised so it wont empty the contents of your fuel tank, but be prepared to lose whatever is in the fuel filter (probably half a litre).
Once you have the unions disconnected, loosen off the clamp that holds the filter and slide it out. Slide new one in but don't over tighten it yet. Clean unions and fit some new dowty washers (12mm small side, 14mm larger side) and tighten up unions and bracket. Once you are happy that everything is back together and before you fit the wheel, re-pressurise the system by turning the key on and off a few times; you should be able to hear the tone of the pump change when it is fully up to operating pressure. Check for leaks. If all is fuel tight, fit the wheel and pat yourself on the back!
I thought I would 'just' change my fuel filter this weekend to tackle some rough running issues but am having a bit of a nightmare...
I've got the new Crossland filter on (after a bit of drama getting the old one off) and have used the shiny new copper washers that came with it. I've done it up as tight as I possibly can, but after getting the system up to pressure, there is a very slight seepage of fuel coming out of both sides of each union. It is only very slight, i.e. enough to slowly change the colour union and make the line shiny, but that close to the exhaust, any is too much!!
Update for all those tacking this job in future: The fuel filter is on the back left hand side so to get access you will need to remove the back LHS wheel. To remove the filter you will need a 17mm socket to loosen the union on the right (as you look at it) and a 19mm socket to remove the one on the left. The system will likely still be under pressure, but not dangerously so, so loosen the unions slowly and put a cloth around it to stop it spurting fuel at you. Once you have a union completely undone you can bung up the holes using the rubber caps that come with the new filter. The system is no longer pressurised so it wont empty the contents of your fuel tank, but be prepared to lose whatever is in the fuel filter (probably half a litre).
Once you have the unions disconnected, loosen off the clamp that holds the filter and slide it out. Slide new one in but don't over tighten it yet. Clean unions and fit some new dowty washers (12mm small side, 14mm larger side) and tighten up unions and bracket. Once you are happy that everything is back together and before you fit the wheel, re-pressurise the system by turning the key on and off a few times; you should be able to hear the tone of the pump change when it is fully up to operating pressure. Check for leaks. If all is fuel tight, fit the wheel and pat yourself on the back!
Edited by ukflyboy on Friday 12th August 21:39
ukflyboy said:
Do I get some new copper washers and try again? Should I use a bit of PTFE?
Definitely, definitely don't use PTFE. I would try re-using the old washers if you still have them (never throw anything away till job is 100% finished). Had the same problem when I changed my filter, old washers did it for me
PS, PTFE is a definite no no..............imho
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 7th August 12:34
re-use the old copper washers but get a blowlampout and anneal them first:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jSz11lz8MA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jSz11lz8MA
Just anneal ( soften ) the copper washers as mentioned previously. Obviously NOT in situ. 
Take the old washers, heat them to cherry red with a blowtorch or similar, even a gas cooker ring, and then leave them to cool.
This will make them soft and conformable to the sealing faces of the banjo union. All faces must be nice and clean and free from any grit or score marks.
Take the old washers, heat them to cherry red with a blowtorch or similar, even a gas cooker ring, and then leave them to cool.
This will make them soft and conformable to the sealing faces of the banjo union. All faces must be nice and clean and free from any grit or score marks.
glenrobbo said:
Just anneal ( soften ) the copper washers as mentioned previously. Obviously NOT in situ.
Take the old washers, heat them to cherry red with a blowtorch or similar, even a gas cooker ring, and then leave them to cool.
This will make them soft and conformable to the sealing faces of the banjo union. All faces must be nice and clean and free from any grit or score marks.
This would probably have worked for me too, but I don't own a blow torch or a gas hob. Hence new copper washers!Take the old washers, heat them to cherry red with a blowtorch or similar, even a gas cooker ring, and then leave them to cool.
This will make them soft and conformable to the sealing faces of the banjo union. All faces must be nice and clean and free from any grit or score marks.
Lewis's Friend said:
This would probably have worked for me too, but I don't own a blow torch or a gas hob. Hence new copper washers!
Annealing is no doubt the correct way to go but I didn't bother (despite having a gas hob and a blowlamp), I just cleaned up the faces of the old washers a bit by rubbing them on some 600 wet'n dry paper.There is an alternative to copper washers in the form of 'Dowty' washers, as used on aircraft fuel, oil & hydraulic systems. They consist of an aluminium alloy ring with a rubber or nitrile sealing ring bonded to the inside diameter.
Edited to add link:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/262034371902
Make sure they are compatible with bioethanol unleaded fuel though.
Edited to add link:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/262034371902
Make sure they are compatible with bioethanol unleaded fuel though.
Edited by glenrobbo on Monday 8th August 22:05
phillpot said:
..I would try re-using the old washers if you still have them (never throw anything away till job is 100% finished)....
Had a similar problem when I replaced the otter switch last weekend. I fitted the new washer which came with the new unit. It leaked. Re-fitted it with the old washer; no problem.
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