Coolant Flush and replacement Pipes help and advice please.

[Tarmac Tickler]

I would like to flush the cooling system and get some antifreeze/coolant in my "S".
As the radiator and general set up is a bit different to what I am used to what's the best way to do it please, is the hose at the bottom of the radiator the best way to drain the system or is there a drain plug?
I think I also need to replace some of the Hoses as they are old and looking cracked. Is a full set replacement the best way to go, and where can I get a decent set, who is recommended?
Thanks,
Andrew.

[glenrobbo]

Try google:

"Pistonheads tvr s series coolant hose replacement"

ACT do full sets of silicon hoses for TVR S Series.

Less convenient but cheaper source would be Auto Silicon Hoses, but you would have to order individual lengths of various diameter hoses and various bends and joint pieces.

Yes, drain down via bottom radiator hose

HTH

Edit: I would recommend replacing the hose clips with stainless 'Mikelor' type, especially if you are fitting silicon coolant hoses, as these clamp more uniformly around the diameter of the hose.

Han's excellent post is very helpful as well:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=514...

Edited by glenrobbo on Friday 23 September 08:49

[Tarmac Tickler]

Thank you, very useful info.
I guess the trick is to do one Hose/Pipe at a time so you get them all done properly..

[LawrieS]

You'll save yourself a lot of faffing about draining and refilling if you just do them all in one go.

After fitting silicone hoses make sure to carry around the correct tools to tighten up the hose clips, they need to be frequently checked after fitting.

Give yourself plenty of clearance between alternator belt and top hose if you plan to replace your engine mounts any time soon, my belt rubbed on the hose after I renewed mine.

[The Big G]

LawrieS said:

You'll save yourself a lot of faffing about draining and refilling if you just do them all in one go.

To further add to this, check the state of the steel coolant pipes. If the hoses are on the way out then chances are that these have seen better days too. Is really easy to switch for ACTs stainless pipes while doing this job. Then you should never have to think about it again

[AutoAndy]

I suppose you could use silicone if you want to spend the money....rubber works still as well I believe

When refilling you may be able to use the vent in the rad, ...or if like mine it has been put in the bottom of the rad then you have to disconnect the the hose to let the air out.....

[Tarmac Tickler]

LawrieS said:

You'll save yourself a lot of faffing about draining and refilling if you just do them all in one go.

After fitting silicone hoses make sure to carry around the correct tools to tighten up the hose clips, they need to be frequently checked after fitting.

Give yourself plenty of clearance between alternator belt and top hose if you plan to replace your engine mounts any time soon, my belt rubbed on the hose after I renewed mine.

I was going to do them in one go, what I meant was to just take one off and fit the replacement before moving on to the next. Thanks for the other tips

[Tarmac Tickler]

The Big G said:

To further add to this, check the state of the steel coolant pipes. If the hoses are on the way out then chances are that these have seen better days too. Is really easy to switch for ACTs stainless pipes while doing this job. Then you should never have to think about it again

Thanks, I did wonder about the state of mine.

[mk1fan]

I have a set of factory pipes from an S3C. Been blasted and painted. While not stainless they should last ages in a properly filled / maintained system.

[The Big G]

My pipes looked ok from the inside but the outsides were horrible, deeply pitted and corroded. Would have looked like the surface of the moon if blasted then painted. The pipes are relatively cheap in comparison to the silicone hoses and stainless clamps to the best of my memory. If doing a job, I've always done my best to do it properly. Hence why I have a stainless swirl pot I have too, but these normally are the first bit of the system to go

[Tarmac Tickler]

The Big G said:

My pipes looked ok from the inside but the outsides were horrible, deeply pitted and corroded. Would have looked like the surface of the moon if blasted then painted. The pipes are relatively cheap in comparison to the silicone hoses and stainless clamps to the best of my memory. If doing a job, I've always done my best to do it properly. Hence why I have a stainless swirl pot I have too, but these normally are the first bit of the system to go

Ah yes the Swirl Pot needs consideration too, like everything else on mine it's a mess to look at......
My initial thoughts of changing the radiator cap is getting a little out of hand
Once I know what needs doing on my chassis I will be moving on to all this coolant business, along with my brake servo etc etc