V8s trailing arms
Discussion
Just scanning through the thread with my Southways hat on 
A few points:
Trailing arms - yup, we send them to Adrian. We don't offer a refurbish service on the trailing arms, we just refer people to Adrian. I even sent my own arms to him! The welding is big and lumpy, but Adrian's explanation above confirmed what I'd already assumed - it's basically been double welded. Not good for looks, but the trailing arm is one aspect I'm happy to wave the looks and chase the durability train on. The 2k paint he puts on isn't pretty, but it's tough, and toughness is key. For all the S' we've done that haven't needed the arms doing, I've had them zinc-sprayed and painted etc, but I'm always trying to find ways of packing the inner tubes with paint to prevent the rusting, as the zinc spray won't get down there.
It is possible to have strong, but ugly welding. Sometimes the access is so poor and restrictive to certain areas of the chassis, I struggle to get them as neat as I want. As long as I can see the pool changing colour at the edges while I'm doing it, I'm happy it's penetrated sufficiently. Of course, it's also possible to have ugly welding that is weak too. You need a keener eye for that!
The reason we send the arms to Adrian, is because I couldn't repair one for any less. Same with outriggers for Chimaeras/Griffiths/Cerberas - we use RT Racing's. I've got a jig for outriggers here, but I can't cut all the sections and assemble them for any less money! When the day comes where Adrian or Richard at RT decide to start charging me £2k for either, I'll start doing them myself. They won't do that though, they're too nice
Body packers
Quite normal to have heaps of them in various places. You need to get them all right, otherwise the roof panels have a tendency to pop out (or smash the windscreen if too tight)! Also affects door alignment/closing etc.
Way to start is to put the roof in, remove all the rubbers and gently let the body down. Check the points they use the packers:
You shouldn't be able to move the rubbers, even before the fixing goes in.
If the roof tension is acceptable, and the door alignment is good, then well done! You should open a workshop! If not, go around make the adjustments needed to get it sweet.
Quite normal to have 4 slabs of rubber packed in from factory. Marketing b
ks said it was to improve NVH. It wasn't, it was to account for the fact the tolerances on an S chassis/body package are wider than the Grand Canyon. But, it works well enough.
I'd recommend buying 2mm, 4mm and 6mm sheets of neoprene rubber from eBay. Use the old pieces as templates.
Last piece of advice, is IMO try to sit the body as low as you can. Some of my customers have picked their cars up with the body about 3-4mm lower than it was to start with, as I managed to fit it more snugly. They don't know who they are, it's like a secret Santa, only not at Christmas and for a gift you don't know you have!
A few points:
Trailing arms - yup, we send them to Adrian. We don't offer a refurbish service on the trailing arms, we just refer people to Adrian. I even sent my own arms to him! The welding is big and lumpy, but Adrian's explanation above confirmed what I'd already assumed - it's basically been double welded. Not good for looks, but the trailing arm is one aspect I'm happy to wave the looks and chase the durability train on. The 2k paint he puts on isn't pretty, but it's tough, and toughness is key. For all the S' we've done that haven't needed the arms doing, I've had them zinc-sprayed and painted etc, but I'm always trying to find ways of packing the inner tubes with paint to prevent the rusting, as the zinc spray won't get down there.
It is possible to have strong, but ugly welding. Sometimes the access is so poor and restrictive to certain areas of the chassis, I struggle to get them as neat as I want. As long as I can see the pool changing colour at the edges while I'm doing it, I'm happy it's penetrated sufficiently. Of course, it's also possible to have ugly welding that is weak too. You need a keener eye for that!
The reason we send the arms to Adrian, is because I couldn't repair one for any less. Same with outriggers for Chimaeras/Griffiths/Cerberas - we use RT Racing's. I've got a jig for outriggers here, but I can't cut all the sections and assemble them for any less money! When the day comes where Adrian or Richard at RT decide to start charging me £2k for either, I'll start doing them myself. They won't do that though, they're too nice
Body packers
Quite normal to have heaps of them in various places. You need to get them all right, otherwise the roof panels have a tendency to pop out (or smash the windscreen if too tight)! Also affects door alignment/closing etc.
Way to start is to put the roof in, remove all the rubbers and gently let the body down. Check the points they use the packers:
- Front corners of outriggers.
- Lower rail saddles on edge on transmission tunnel (as pictured above).
- Outrigger saddle mounts (trickiest to get to)
- Upper lateral rail above diff
- Fuel tank cradle (don't let the rear of the body sag too much, as it's very weak and could damage itself - I'd suggest having it on a trolley jack, so you can constantly adjust it).
You shouldn't be able to move the rubbers, even before the fixing goes in.
If the roof tension is acceptable, and the door alignment is good, then well done! You should open a workshop! If not, go around make the adjustments needed to get it sweet.
Quite normal to have 4 slabs of rubber packed in from factory. Marketing b
ks said it was to improve NVH. It wasn't, it was to account for the fact the tolerances on an S chassis/body package are wider than the Grand Canyon. But, it works well enough.I'd recommend buying 2mm, 4mm and 6mm sheets of neoprene rubber from eBay. Use the old pieces as templates.
Last piece of advice, is IMO try to sit the body as low as you can. Some of my customers have picked their cars up with the body about 3-4mm lower than it was to start with, as I managed to fit it more snugly. They don't know who they are, it's like a secret Santa, only not at Christmas and for a gift you don't know you have!
Kitchski said:
... The 2k paint he puts on isn't pretty, but it's tough, and toughness is key......
Humm... this would be the finish I was promised, paid for, but didn't get.Kitchski said:
... I'm always trying to find ways of packing the inner tubes with paint to prevent the rusting, as the zinc spray won't get down there.....
To get some protection down into the hidden corners and crevices I poured Hammerite down the tubes and kept rotating the assembly until I was sure there was no bare metal hidden away anywhere. Then I left it for a week in the airing cupboard to let the paint harden before spaying Waxoyl into all the "blind" tubes just to be sure.All of this additional work and delay just fueled my annoyance at the time because I was expecting a "ready-to-fit" item.
New Years Resolution - let it go!
Thank you. I never know you cared TVR-Stu said:
Kitchski that's a really useful post, thanks for taking the time to write it so comprehensively.
You make it sound straightforward but I can only imagine the likely expertise required to 'get it right'
I just re-read it and it does make the packing spacers sound easier than it is You make it sound straightforward but I can only imagine the likely expertise required to 'get it right'
It's common sense really. Eventually, I (normally) end up with two 6mm pieces at the front corners, a 6mm and a 4mm on the inside corners, two 6mm on the rear saddle mounts, anything that fits on the outer saddle mounts (worst bit of the chassis; Never symmetrical, foul the trailing arm bolts, don't line up etc. Nightmare when you have to use the originals as patterns, if there's anything left, that is), anything from 2x 4mm to 2x 6mm on the tank cradle, and on the lateral box section it's usually around 2mm - 4mm. Left can be different to right, too. Most important thing is to get the roof sitting nicely, and get the doors aligned. If those bits are sorted, the body can't be under too much stress as if it were they wouldn't line up.
The height of the front of the body can play havoc with your bonnet alignment too.
v8s4me said:
Kitchski said:
... The 2k paint he puts on isn't pretty, but it's tough, and toughness is key......
Humm... this would be the finish I was promised, paid for, but didn't get.Kitchski said:
... I'm always trying to find ways of packing the inner tubes with paint to prevent the rusting, as the zinc spray won't get down there.....
v8s4me said:
To get some protection down into the hidden corners and crevices I poured Hammerite down the tubes and kept rotating the assembly until I was sure there was no bare metal hidden away anywhere. Then I left it for a week in the airing cupboard to let the paint harden before spaying Waxoyl into all the "blind" tubes just to be sure.
All of this additional work and delay just fueled my annoyance at the time because I was expecting a "ready-to-fit" item.
New Years Resolution - let it go!
Hammerite's better than nothing, but it only prevents rust in the same way Waxoyl does - by isolating it from the air. Once you get an opening it'll just fall off, so keep an eye on it. It'll still be miles better than the original setup though!All of this additional work and delay just fueled my annoyance at the time because I was expecting a "ready-to-fit" item.
New Years Resolution - let it go!
I used 2k Rustbuster last time, and did the same you did, only without the Waxoyl (that'd be like wrapping a rock in bubblewrap).
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