S1 rebuild....not one for the purist
Discussion
magpies said:
if I remember well you still have the drive shaft and offtakes running the length of your workshop 
That Hercules Mch uses a flat belt drive and a dc motor. I did my apprenticeship in a factory with line shafts and overhead belts, and we built piston ring grinders! but the world has changed so lets not get too pipes and slippers over this. My welding isn't pretty but its full depth and we'd all be buggered without electricity. But lets face it Petrol is the king of fuels and internal combustion the best way of using it, and I will brook no dissent on this.
On the other hand I am almost entirely responsible for introducing a blanket 20mph limit in my part of London.
Other than the stage 3 engine and emerald ecu with closed loop control from a wideband lamda, not a lot. this is about building something really good and reliable but with that wonderful TVR individuality. Most of my driving is now done between London and the Chateauneuf du Pape. So spare wheel has moved under the bonnet ( more wine space) and I've added electric power steering, which goes neutral at around 15mph and cruise control for the odd bit of motorway (the french have gone camera mad), oh yeah a remote oil filter for easier changing along with a cooler. All the rest is bog standard S1, other than rear discs and adjustable shocks all round. Then there's the polymax bushes and the ally fuel tank. So pretty much as it came out of the factory.
Except for the paint job.
As I said at the top of this.
Not for the purist.
Except for the paint job.
As I said at the top of this.
Not for the purist.
Alan Whitaker said:
What power steering did you go for.
Alan
Its a Clio unit, with a clever little additional processor ( courtesy of a rocket scientist friend) that changes the assistance rate relative to the wheel speed. The standard unit goes neutral at around 50, but I really only need it to get in and out of my garage.Alan
Alan 1209 said:
Its a Clio unit, with a clever little additional processor ( courtesy of a rocket scientist friend) that changes the assistance rate relative to the wheel speed. The standard unit goes neutral at around 50, but I really only need it to get in and out of my garage.
The EPAS on the MGF cuts out at around 30 mph leaving the steering unassited after that so they say.I think they're all much the same, the MGTF and Cleo use the same controller, the canbus is for fault diagnostics only. The Cleo unit has 3 levels of assist derived from speed and a variable within each band derived from slew on the steering wheel, If you leave the speed sensor open you can use this input with a pair of resistors to limit the power, this seems to be how most of the little black boxes work although the output is a pulse train, the buffered input on the controller will effectively convert this to a voltage. If you lift the speed input to 12v the assist goes neutral. The variation from model to model seem to come from the speed sensor pickup, the Cleo is taken from the ABS ring with 26 ppr, the MG F seems to be around 42 so the Cleo drops out at 50 and the MG at 30.
Edited by Alan 1209 on Monday 9th January 08:47
Edited by Alan 1209 on Monday 9th January 14:51
[quote=Alan 1209]the canbus is for fault diagnostics only.
No it's not, its used to send signals via nodes to each ecu and body control unit, it only works in diagnostic mode through the OBD11 protacols, that's why the wires are so small from the indicators and wipers they only send codes to the nodes. they also don't need the same number of wires to do the same job as none can bus systems
Alan
No it's not, its used to send signals via nodes to each ecu and body control unit, it only works in diagnostic mode through the OBD11 protacols, that's why the wires are so small from the indicators and wipers they only send codes to the nodes. they also don't need the same number of wires to do the same job as none can bus systems
Alan
Alan Whitaker]lan 1209 said:
the canbus is for fault diagnostics only.
No it's not, its used to send signals via nodes to each ecu and body control unit, it only works in diagnostic mode through the OBD11 protacols, that's why the wires are so small from the indicators and wipers they only send codes to the nodes. they also don't need the same number of wires to do the same job as none can bus systems
Alan
Well the one I have from a MK2 Clio (2001-5) does not use canbus, its pretty much stand alone, I have had it in use on the car. Maybe the later ones are fully canbus, but this one takes its inputs direct from the VR sensor on one front wheel ABS and a pair of opposed resistors on the steering wheel ( which I don't use) Its a Mitsubishi Electrics unit. I can send you the circuit diag if you want to have a look.No it's not, its used to send signals via nodes to each ecu and body control unit, it only works in diagnostic mode through the OBD11 protacols, that's why the wires are so small from the indicators and wipers they only send codes to the nodes. they also don't need the same number of wires to do the same job as none can bus systems
Alan
Its also used in a Honda Civic and Vauxhall Corsa. Being non canbus makes it a lot easier to use.
You guys have lost me but I do know this kind of thing is available for the commonly used Corsa power steering column... Control box
phillpot said:
You guys have lost me but I do know this kind of thing is available for the commonly used Corsa power steering column... Control box
The great advantage of the EPAS is that you can easily decrease the assist in proportion to speed increase. If you use the little box that goes and you just have a single rate of assist unless you tweak the knob as your driving. I have a modified bike 18t sprocket mounted on the propshaft nose, and a standard clio sensor picking up from it. this replicates the standard input but multiplies it by (18 * 3.36(diff ratio))/26or 2.33:1 so Clio drop out was around 50mph, its now 21.5. ( depends on wheel size but its near enough). Then I have a nifty little Arduino based gizmo to vary that.
Simples
Do you think you will crack 200Bhp with the stage 3 engine.?
Why did you change the gearbox + diff and not just the diff.? Great work btw just seems like a lot without either 6 speed or some other reason.?
Keep the updates coming but in the scheme of things yours is pretty standard
What you doing for door mirrors.?
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratec
Why did you change the gearbox + diff and not just the diff.? Great work btw just seems like a lot without either 6 speed or some other reason.?
Keep the updates coming but in the scheme of things yours is pretty standard
What you doing for door mirrors.?
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratec
DamianS3 said:
Do you think you will crack 200Bhp with the stage 3 engine.?
Why did you change the gearbox + diff and not just the diff.? Great work btw just seems like a lot without either 6 speed or some other reason.?
Keep the updates coming but in the scheme of things yours is pretty standard
What you doing for door mirrors.?
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratec
Hi Damian,Why did you change the gearbox + diff and not just the diff.? Great work btw just seems like a lot without either 6 speed or some other reason.?
Keep the updates coming but in the scheme of things yours is pretty standard
What you doing for door mirrors.?
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratec
Expecting 220, but its the torque increase that's the issue, the T9 was barely up to the 2.8 and had a tendency to twist and burst. There's no point in a 6 speed on this engine as it has a wide powerband, you need 6 or more for a peaky engine to keep you in the power band. The RX8 box has been used up to 400BHP on turbo engines, so i have given myself the turbo option for the future.
I'm not planning to go racing so the diff change was to give me more legs for motorway cruising and its a limited slip diff so better all round. What do you need mirrors for, just overtake everything.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff