Discussion
I'm sure you have got the message from replies so far, but to clarify...
The 3 long t-stat bolts are threaded into the little rear housing, not the timing cover.
There are 2 types of water pump casting. Yours being the one with a square shaped extension next to the t-stat hole.
Don't forget you need the right gasket too, but that usually comes with the pump. The new pump in your photo is usually as fitted to the 2.8 efi engine. Not usually as fitted to the carb or mfi engine (Granada/Capri).
There are several designs of front fixing for a cooling fan on the water pump shaft, that's usually for either a fixed or viscous coupling.
If the worst happens & you need replacement parts including the t-stat housing, the rear housing, & a timing cover, make sure they're all matching parts & the same as your originals.
For all concerned...On your photo showing both pumps & impellers, you can see what I referred to about bent tin impellers. Just don't buy one with that type !
A good impeller will be a good fit into its matching appature in the timing cover, otherwise it will just cavitat (poor water movement = poor cooling).
TerryB.
The 3 long t-stat bolts are threaded into the little rear housing, not the timing cover.
There are 2 types of water pump casting. Yours being the one with a square shaped extension next to the t-stat hole.
Don't forget you need the right gasket too, but that usually comes with the pump. The new pump in your photo is usually as fitted to the 2.8 efi engine. Not usually as fitted to the carb or mfi engine (Granada/Capri).
There are several designs of front fixing for a cooling fan on the water pump shaft, that's usually for either a fixed or viscous coupling.
If the worst happens & you need replacement parts including the t-stat housing, the rear housing, & a timing cover, make sure they're all matching parts & the same as your originals.
For all concerned...On your photo showing both pumps & impellers, you can see what I referred to about bent tin impellers. Just don't buy one with that type !
A good impeller will be a good fit into its matching appature in the timing cover, otherwise it will just cavitat (poor water movement = poor cooling).
TerryB.
Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 2nd February 22:28
Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 2nd February 22:54
Further info on this topic, just scroll down for photos:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=150...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=150...
thanks Glen,
Very useful info, should have done a bit more homework on this project before I started turning spanners. Oh well, more fun this way! Bull in china shop). Have decided to take the pumps to the supplier, have rung them this morning and they only down the road form me. Will tackle the sheared stuff over the weekend hopefully.
Very useful info, should have done a bit more homework on this project before I started turning spanners. Oh well, more fun this way! Bull in china shop). Have decided to take the pumps to the supplier, have rung them this morning and they only down the road form me. Will tackle the sheared stuff over the weekend hopefully.
Oxy-acetylene and a fiberglass car,...mmmmmm! What can possibly go wrong.
(Quite what the curtain hook is for I am not exactlty sure).
Sadly I know from bitter expirence what happens when the underseal, that is hiding the bodged up fuel line repair (plastic tubing) melts, melting it all. Fuel pipe and all. Right next to the door sill you are welding!! OMG. Long time ago though. Fire extinguisher please.
Tally Ho!
And the results?
Seven little piggies,
two to go,
two without brothers,
more tom-orrow.
(Quite what the curtain hook is for I am not exactlty sure).
Sadly I know from bitter expirence what happens when the underseal, that is hiding the bodged up fuel line repair (plastic tubing) melts, melting it all. Fuel pipe and all. Right next to the door sill you are welding!! OMG. Long time ago though. Fire extinguisher please.
Tally Ho!
And the results?
Seven little piggies,
two to go,
two without brothers,
more tom-orrow.
So far so good Prof. You're a poet, but don't even know it!
Liking the baccy tin, old school
Young 'uns these days will never know how useful they are to any engineer/ mechanic/ fitter worth his salt.
The introduction of tobacco in polythene sachets caused a great decline in engineering storage solutions.
Carry on, and best of luck. Patience is key.
Liking the baccy tin, old school
Young 'uns these days will never know how useful they are to any engineer/ mechanic/ fitter worth his salt.
The introduction of tobacco in polythene sachets caused a great decline in engineering storage solutions.
Carry on, and best of luck. Patience is key.
Just found out which brand it was:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lovely-Vintage-Pictorial-N...
Flippin' 'eck, £9.99 + p&p! For an old empty Nosegay tin?
I might be better off than I thought!
ETA: I didn't know they did metric ones though!
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lovely-Vintage-Pictorial-N...
Flippin' 'eck, £9.99 + p&p! For an old empty Nosegay tin?
I might be better off than I thought!
ETA: I didn't know they did metric ones though!
Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 4th February 17:16
Been a long time since I indulged in the dreaded weed. An engineers backy tin collection is a wonder of bits and bobs. Old stuff? Think my oldest tool is a tap actually. Think it is a 3/8ths BSF plug or second from 1942, date is on the side. Got a kite mark on the side and I am sure, pretty much that is, that that means its old M.O.D stock.
No work today, been for a
No work today, been for a
Another collector of old 'baccy tins here! This one is from my Uncle's workshop which was a place of wonder for a small boy engineer!!!
He was an early motor engineer, together with his brother, and pipe smoker (as many were) who wore his tie every day complete with trousers that were suspended by belt and braces although the waistband appeared 'higher' than the modern taste being 'under the armpit' style!! Completing the ensemble was the obligatory engineers bib with pocket in the front that AFAIR contained his petrol lighter and other inflammable items!!!!
I'm amazed, looking back, that it was a miracle he never self combusted given the combination of oil-soaked tie and bib in association with the cinders emanating from the 'gum bucket'!!!
He was an early motor engineer, together with his brother, and pipe smoker (as many were) who wore his tie every day complete with trousers that were suspended by belt and braces although the waistband appeared 'higher' than the modern taste being 'under the armpit' style!! Completing the ensemble was the obligatory engineers bib with pocket in the front that AFAIR contained his petrol lighter and other inflammable items!!!!
I'm amazed, looking back, that it was a miracle he never self combusted given the combination of oil-soaked tie and bib in association with the cinders emanating from the 'gum bucket'!!!
Well today was successful.
Full house.
Bye pass flange intact, t/stat housing ok and big black rubber thingy (oil pressuer sender maybe)? Clean.
Just need new pump. Wednesday probably.
New problem to tackle is split and badly fouled (thick orange gunge inside) expansion tank and how to remove it.
The brighter coloured of the two mounting bolts, the one to right, is just spinning. One to the left will proably do the same. Ran out of time to find the other end. Any ideas anyone?
Full house.
Bye pass flange intact, t/stat housing ok and big black rubber thingy (oil pressuer sender maybe)? Clean.
Just need new pump. Wednesday probably.
New problem to tackle is split and badly fouled (thick orange gunge inside) expansion tank and how to remove it.
The brighter coloured of the two mounting bolts, the one to right, is just spinning. One to the left will proably do the same. Ran out of time to find the other end. Any ideas anyone?
theprof said:
The brighter coloured of the two mounting bolts, the one to right, is just spinning. One to the left will proably do the same. Ran out of time to find the other end. Any ideas anyone?
I think they are studs set in the fibreglass?tank is of BL origin I believe, MGB used a metal version
phillpot said:
I think they are studs set in the fibreglass?
tank is of BL origin I believe, MGB used a metal version
Yes, the originals are studs set on grp. You may well have to grip it with a 'mole' and cut it off, sorry, no easy solution. Trick then is to use either a through bolt or to out one of the special self sealing expansion nuts sold by Car Builder Solutions into the bodywork and use a socket head screw from the outside. tank is of BL origin I believe, MGB used a metal version
Then the debate about which has the pressure cap starts!
If you accept that the pressure cap should be on the swirl pot () then just clean out the plastic catch tank, v out and reseal the crack, once the pressure cap is in the correct place () the tank is under no pressure!
Sorry, you are not having the cap off my MGB, but if you want one then try BeeHive, they also have second hand parts.
Pressure cap should be on the swirl pot. Thats how I see it. Which means the header tank can be just a normal screw cap. Here is an idea polished aluminium tank, rather than repair the old one. The mounting bracket might be challenge but never met anything I could not do. Any body got one fitted to an s?
theprof said:
Here is an idea polished aluminium tank, rather than repair the old one.
One or two of us have gone stainless (and re-positioned) A guy by the name of Shaun can make you one
Yep, polished alloy tank is fine, just check you get the levels right so there is space for any vented water to be caught. If the tank fills up there is something wrong with the cooling system! Agreed.
Well done getting those castings off. They are getting rare so a good corrosion delaying treatment is worthwhile. The pipe mountings look pretty good? They often have a bit corroded away where water has leaked which necessitates sealant and very careful use of a (new, stainless!) hose clip. Stress isnt an issue so stainless bolts will delay corrosion, well waxoyled in! SO much less time next time!!
The 'rubbery bit' is indeed the electric fuel pressure sensor, the rubber is presumably just a cover? It is quite expensive and some of the cheaper replacements do not give quite the same pressure reading. Just check the top terminal isnt loose, they do go on for a long time. Pressure should be 40-50 hot at revs, regularly as low as 15 at tick over.
Well done getting those castings off. They are getting rare so a good corrosion delaying treatment is worthwhile. The pipe mountings look pretty good? They often have a bit corroded away where water has leaked which necessitates sealant and very careful use of a (new, stainless!) hose clip. Stress isnt an issue so stainless bolts will delay corrosion, well waxoyled in! SO much less time next time!!
The 'rubbery bit' is indeed the electric fuel pressure sensor, the rubber is presumably just a cover? It is quite expensive and some of the cheaper replacements do not give quite the same pressure reading. Just check the top terminal isnt loose, they do go on for a long time. Pressure should be 40-50 hot at revs, regularly as low as 15 at tick over.
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