Water pump S1

Water pump S1

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Discussion

Blue 30

519 posts

117 months

Thursday 2nd February 2017
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I'm sure you have got the message from replies so far, but to clarify...
The 3 long t-stat bolts are threaded into the little rear housing, not the timing cover.
There are 2 types of water pump casting. Yours being the one with a square shaped extension next to the t-stat hole.
Don't forget you need the right gasket too, but that usually comes with the pump. The new pump in your photo is usually as fitted to the 2.8 efi engine. Not usually as fitted to the carb or mfi engine (Granada/Capri).
There are several designs of front fixing for a cooling fan on the water pump shaft, that's usually for either a fixed or viscous coupling.
If the worst happens & you need replacement parts including the t-stat housing, the rear housing, & a timing cover, make sure they're all matching parts & the same as your originals.
For all concerned...On your photo showing both pumps & impellers, you can see what I referred to about bent tin impellers. Just don't buy one with that type !
A good impeller will be a good fit into its matching appature in the timing cover, otherwise it will just cavitat (poor water movement = poor cooling).
TerryB.

Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 2nd February 22:28


Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 2nd February 22:54

Blue 30

519 posts

117 months

Thursday 2nd February 2017
quotequote all
And while I'm thinking about it, you might as well fit a new t-stat if yours looks aged.
But it should be 82o rated, no higher !
That's due to it sitting in the cold side (bottom hose) of the radiator, not the more normal hot side (top hose).
TerryB

glenrobbo

35,242 posts

150 months

Friday 3rd February 2017
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Further info on this topic, just scroll down for photos:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=150...


theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Friday 3rd February 2017
quotequote all
thanks Glen,
Very useful info, should have done a bit more homework on this project before I started turning spanners. Oh well, more fun this way!frown Bull in china shop). Have decided to take the pumps to the supplier, have rung them this morning and they only down the road form me. Will tackle the sheared stuff over the weekend hopefully.smile

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Friday 3rd February 2017
quotequote all
Oxy-acetylene and a fiberglass car,...mmmmmm! What can possibly go wrong.

(Quite what the curtain hook is for I am not exactlty sure).


Sadly I know from bitter expirence what happens when the underseal, that is hiding the bodged up fuel line repair (plastic tubing) melts, melting it all. Fuel pipe and all. Right next to the door sill you are welding!! OMG. Long time ago though. Fire extinguisher please.

Tally Ho!




And the results?



Seven little piggies,
two to go,
two without brothers,
more tom-orrow.

glenrobbo

35,242 posts

150 months

Saturday 4th February 2017
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So far so good Prof. thumbup You're a poet, but don't even know it! biggrin

Liking the baccy tin, old school smile
Young 'uns these days will never know how useful they are to any engineer/ mechanic/ fitter worth his salt.

The introduction of tobacco in polythene sachets caused a great decline in engineering storage solutions. frown

Carry on, and best of luck. Patience is key. wink

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Saturday 4th February 2017
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Thought the same thing Glen, I guard my tobacco tins ruthlessly!cop
Looks like Theprof had higher grade tobacco than me, as surely befits his academic station;)

glenrobbo

35,242 posts

150 months

Saturday 4th February 2017
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Just found out which brand it was:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lovely-Vintage-Pictorial-N...

Flippin' 'eck, £9.99 + p&p! For an old empty Nosegay tin?

I might be better off than I thought! woohoo

ETA: scratchchin I didn't know they did metric ones though! wink

Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 4th February 17:16

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Saturday 4th February 2017
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Been a long time since I indulged in the dreaded weed.smokin An engineers backy tin collection is a wonder of bits and bobs. Old stuff? Think my oldest tool is a tap actually. Think it is a 3/8ths BSF plug or second from 1942, date is on the side. Got a kite mark on the side and I am sure, pretty much that is, that that means its old M.O.D stock.
No work today, been for adrink

yknot

8,997 posts

138 months

Saturday 4th February 2017
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Another collector of old 'baccy tins here! This one is from my Uncle's workshop which was a place of wonder for a small boy engineer!!!

He was an early motor engineer, together with his brother, and pipe smoker (as many were) who wore his tie every day complete with trousers that were suspended by belt and braces although the waistband appeared 'higher' than the modern taste being 'under the armpit' style!! Completing the ensemble was the obligatory engineers bib with pocket in the front that AFAIR contained his petrol lighter and other inflammable items!!!!

I'm amazed, looking back, that it was a miracle he never self combusted given the combination of oil-soaked tie and bib in association with the cinders emanating from the 'gum bucket'!!!


theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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Well today was successful.
Full house.



Bye pass flange intact, t/stat housing ok and big black rubber thingy (oil pressuer sender maybe)? Clean.



Just need new pump. Wednesday probably.
New problem to tackle is split and badly fouled (thick orange gunge inside) expansion tank and how to remove it.



The brighter coloured of the two mounting bolts, the one to right, is just spinning. One to the left will proably do the same. Ran out of time to find the other end. Any ideas anyone?

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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theprof said:
The brighter coloured of the two mounting bolts, the one to right, is just spinning. One to the left will proably do the same. Ran out of time to find the other end. Any ideas anyone?
I think they are studs set in the fibreglass?


tank is of BL origin I believe, MGB used a metal version

RayTVR

1,040 posts

143 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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Once its off I had good results with a bottle brush - bit fiddly but most of the browny residue comes off nicely. Followed by a quick spell in the dishwasher (when she was out)

RayTVR

1,040 posts

143 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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phillpot said:
tank is of BL origin I believe, MGB used a metal version
If anybody fancies one of them I have one in my garage..

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
quotequote all
phillpot said:
I think they are studs set in the fibreglass?


tank is of BL origin I believe, MGB used a metal version
Yes, the originals are studs set on grp. You may well have to grip it with a 'mole' and cut it off, sorry, no easy solution. Trick then is to use either a through bolt or to out one of the special self sealing expansion nuts sold by Car Builder Solutions into the bodywork and use a socket head screw from the outside.

Then the debate about which has the pressure cap starts!
If you accept that the pressure cap should be on the swirl pot (argue) then just clean out the plastic catch tank, v out and reseal the crack, once the pressure cap is in the correct place (smash) the tank is under no pressure!

Sorry, you are not having the cap off my MGB, but if you want one then try BeeHive, they also have second hand parts.

RayTVR

1,040 posts

143 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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Or if you REALLY want a new one search for ARH259 on a well known auction site for an expensive reproduction.

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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Pressure cap should be on the swirl potscratchchin. Thats how I see it. Which means the header tank can be just a normal screw cap. Here is an idea idea polished aluminium tank, rather than repair the old one. The mounting bracket might be challenge but never met anything I could not do. Any body got one fitted to an s?

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
quotequote all
theprof said:
Here is an idea idea polished aluminium tank, rather than repair the old one.
One or two of us have gone stainless (and re-positioned) wink





A guy by the name of Shaun can make you one

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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Yep, polished alloy tank is fine, just check you get the levels right so there is space for any vented water to be caught. If the tank fills up there is something wrong with the cooling system! Agreed.

Well done getting those castings off. They are getting rare so a good corrosion delaying treatment is worthwhile. The pipe mountings look pretty good? They often have a bit corroded away where water has leaked which necessitates sealant and very careful use of a (new, stainless!) hose clip. Stress isnt an issue so stainless bolts will delay corrosion, well waxoyled in! SO much less time next time!!

The 'rubbery bit' is indeed the electric fuel pressure sensor, the rubber is presumably just a cover? It is quite expensive and some of the cheaper replacements do not give quite the same pressure reading. Just check the top terminal isnt loose, they do go on for a long time. Pressure should be 40-50 hot at revs, regularly as low as 15 at tick over.

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Sunday 5th February 2017
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Holy H Christ on a Bike! That is cool as censored. Done deal, how do I ityes. First thing first though, number one priority, dont let her indoors no!