changing gear oil
Discussion
O/H Rick tried yesterday to take out old gear oil &replace.Tried suction but couldn't get hardly anything out (no drain plug).only thing he could do was to top it up with new, as knotchy gear change, Anyone have any other ideas I did see the V8 s post of changing the clutch oil aswell
enna said:
Anyone have any other ideas I did see the V8 s post of changing the clutch oil aswell
Clutch oil? where's that 
Gearbox can be drained by slackening (don't remove) this ring of bolts, 3 indicated, three other side and one at bottom from memory. Only need un-doing a couple of millimeters and tailhousing can be prised back and oil fill flow!
I used one of these ... it might not have got every drop of old oil out, but it made a fairly decent job.
Andy
http://www.screwfix.com/p/handy-parts-hp-162-oil-c...
Andy
http://www.screwfix.com/p/handy-parts-hp-162-oil-c...
Hi Enna,
If Rick has established that the clutch master and slave cyl are not leaking, that there is no air in the system, and plenty of fluid in the reservoir, it is worth checking where the slave cylinder pushrod meets the clutch release arm. Sometimes it wears so much that the pushrod end starts to "punch through" the pressed steel release arm, so the clutch does not travel its' full extent.
It needs somebody in the car pressing and releasing the clutch whilst the other person is looking at the other end.
Good luck
If Rick has established that the clutch master and slave cyl are not leaking, that there is no air in the system, and plenty of fluid in the reservoir, it is worth checking where the slave cylinder pushrod meets the clutch release arm. Sometimes it wears so much that the pushrod end starts to "punch through" the pressed steel release arm, so the clutch does not travel its' full extent.
It needs somebody in the car pressing and releasing the clutch whilst the other person is looking at the other end.
Good luck
I bought an eezibleed, but couldn't get away with it: it repeatedly blew the top off the master cyl, and sprayed fluid everywhere.
So I bought a vacuum bleeder. It's now done the clutch three times: the trick is to coat the threads ONLY of the bleed screw with copper-ease so air can't be sucked in. Somewhere, I've seen PTFE-coated screws which should do the same thing; I tried wrapping PTFE tape round the screw but that didn't work so well.
It's also great for testing the servo (pull a vacuum, and see how long it holds it) and just using the gauge for general engine vacuum checking (specially, checking individual components). A great buy!
So I bought a vacuum bleeder. It's now done the clutch three times: the trick is to coat the threads ONLY of the bleed screw with copper-ease so air can't be sucked in. Somewhere, I've seen PTFE-coated screws which should do the same thing; I tried wrapping PTFE tape round the screw but that didn't work so well.
It's also great for testing the servo (pull a vacuum, and see how long it holds it) and just using the gauge for general engine vacuum checking (specially, checking individual components). A great buy!
mentall said:
I bought an eezibleed, but couldn't get away with it: it repeatedly blew the top off the master cyl, and sprayed fluid everywhere.
Never had that issue, I do find everything a bit more "controlled" with only about 10psi in the tyre. don't use your space saver with 50psi!
glenrobbo said:
I know, I know: Reading instructions should only be the last resort if all else fails... 
Far from being the first time I've committed THAT sin!Mistah Gunson, he say 20psi max. From recollection, the tyre was down at about 19, having been off the road a long time.
However, I think the real problem was the gnarly state of the top of the master cylinder. That's a problem for another day.
But I'm totally happy with my vacuum pump: chacun a son goo!
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