Saving an S1

Saving an S1

Author
Discussion

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
Yes, and it looks to me that it has already gone through the clutch lever.

Adrian@

4,310 posts

282 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
IF that is a picture of your car...then the clutch release arm needs urgent repair. The rod has punched its way through the release arm. A@

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
There were nuts both sides of the lever on the threaded portion. The rod was very firmly attached to the lever.

phillpot

17,116 posts

183 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
88S1 said:
Do you mean this rod?
That's not good! yikes

TvrJohn

1,058 posts

255 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
Keep up the great work

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
If you had changed the cylinder with the rod/lever like that it would have ruined the new cylinder and still not worked properly.

It should look more like this (mine has a split pin as a 'belt and braces' approach, it isnt normally there).

Someone has done a real bodge and I am amazed the clutch would work at all. The clutch lever is going to need welding up, ideally like this

The idea is to provide a good smooth socket for the 'ball' on the end of the rod to engage with. Ball and socket joint. It is designed to engage with the smaller hole at the end of the clutch lever. (It is possible to re-engineer to provide a socket where the larger hole is. Mike Phillpot has done that. It is probably a better option as an engineering design as it keeps the cylinder rod more in line with the axis of the cylinder, may also give marginally faster clutch action)



The rod is not fixed to the clutch lever, it rests against the clutch lever. The angle between the rod and the clutch lever must be able to change. Compare the angles:


88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
Thanks for the photos, I can see what you mean now. I’ll get it out of the bits box tomorrow and have another look. Maybe it didn’t have nuts both sides, I was more interested in getting the bell-housing off the engine at the time, but it was definitely connected solid, maybe it was just pushed in a rusted solid, in fact it’s probably still connected to it. If it has gone through then, as it looks like it has, you can buy swivel washers, maybe I could weld one of them in the get the ball and socket action again, or a nice bit of shaping on a M8/M10 washer might do the trick, I’ll come up with something.

Many thanks for alerting me to this, saved me a whole lot of money in the swear box. Another blooming job to do. Aaaaaaagggggghhhhhhh

Edited by 88S1 on Wednesday 31st July 23:59


Edited by 88S1 on Thursday 1st August 00:12

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
Phillpotts solution from 2010.


greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
Yes. Mike 'Phillpot' brazed it in. I am slightly wary of that because the clutch arm is heat treated so care with a MIG is probably better as it wont heat the arm as much.

phillpot

17,116 posts

183 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
greymrj said:
I am slightly wary of that because the clutch arm is heat treated
7 Sept 2010 and still going strong wink

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
What about something like this? Save messing about welding the hole up etc. Any thoughts.



Edited by 88S1 on Thursday 1st August 15:15

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
Mine does push through, would never have thought there was a problem as the hole looks perfect (thanks chaps, saved my bacon again).

Could do with a new pin if not a modified design as previous post, can’t see anywhere that sells them though.




Adrian@

4,310 posts

282 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
IMHO, don't try to reinvent this ...a nut Brazed/TIG'd bronze as far out on the arm, the adjuster needs much the same and filing to shape, pretty much as you see in Mike's ...this is a historic issue with this conversion to fluid from cable and it has an really easy fix. A@

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
If Mike's has been OK for ten years, and he uses his car a lot, then it looks like the arm will stand brazing heat! Your arm has certainly been well worn. I agree with Adrian, I wouldn't bother with the aero part, It would have disadvantages as the rod and lever would now be too firmly together. While it is all out you have time to get someone to turn up a new end piece for the rod, it is an easy turning job. Might as well get it case hardened at the same time, again dead easy.

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
One of these little fellas will do the trick.




Adrian@

4,310 posts

282 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
It rather depends if you want to do one that is on the car (and then you have the luxury of time not being an issue) lol. A@


greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
I like those little cups, nice find!. Look made for the job. If they comes in packs you should find a market with other members!

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 1st August 2019
quotequote all
greymrj said:
I like those little cups, nice find!. Look made for the job. If they comes in packs you should find a market with other members!
£18 each. Not worth it.

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Saturday 3rd August 2019
quotequote all
Ordered some solid stainless washers, these are tapered not concave but got to be better than a flat hole in the arm.



Also ordered a sealed swivel type, got to be worth a try to see if it works. It’s going to be while before the box goes back in so I can afford to have a mess about and try a few different things. I know a few of you doubt it will work, but you never know. Will have to change the rod as it’s a different thread, m6 Stainless coach bolt may do the trick.




88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Monday 5th August 2019
quotequote all
The stainless pressed washers arrived today. The M8 one is the best fit for the rod end, nice smooth swivel action (or would be with the rod cap smoothed out to remove the groves in it). Solid ones should be here in a few days, but the principal seems to work nicely.