TVR S2 - Performance Query
Discussion
Certainly the 2.9 'S' has a diagnostic connection. It's not the easiest thing to find, but definitely there. I use mine with a Gunson tester but other testers are available.
Try googling [[S Series 2.9 diagnostic socket site
istonheads.com]] (without the brackets, and a colon and a p in place of the smiley) for extensive advice on a) finding, b) using and c) interpreting it.
Of course, it won't find every fault, only those in (or shown by) equipment connected to the ECU!
Try googling [[S Series 2.9 diagnostic socket site
istonheads.com]] (without the brackets, and a colon and a p in place of the smiley) for extensive advice on a) finding, b) using and c) interpreting it.Of course, it won't find every fault, only those in (or shown by) equipment connected to the ECU!
phillpot said:
Already got that article, thanks, and have been referring to it in recent months.i would first check the ignition timing and the advance regulation of the dizzy. (this said, i´m not sure if the 2.9 V6 still has a mechanical advance regulation inside the dizzy).
the injection system is usually trouble-free and not really prone for any severe problems.
i would never trust any so called "i have also some expirience with classic cars"-garage.
the fod cologne V6 itsselves is a bit of a sluggish engine....so it was never a performance-wonder.
the injection system is usually trouble-free and not really prone for any severe problems.
i would never trust any so called "i have also some expirience with classic cars"-garage.
the fod cologne V6 itsselves is a bit of a sluggish engine....so it was never a performance-wonder.
LLantrisant said:
i would first check the ignition timing and the advance regulation of the dizzy. (this said, i´m not sure if the 2.9 V6 still has a mechanical advance regulation inside the dizzy).
the injection system is usually trouble-free and not really prone for any severe problems.
i would never trust any so called "i have also some expirience with classic cars"-garage.
the fod cologne V6 itsselves is a bit of a sluggish engine....so it was never a performance-wonder.
Thank you, LLantrisant. I'm just about to set about checking through the connections if I can stand the heat, and will get to the timing as part of that. Good to know that the injection system would be an unlikely candidate for issues. Also, your comment about the V6 being a bit of a sluggish engine is of interest. The timimg apart from initial setting is wholly regukated by the EEC IV EMU. I will let you know if I am able to improve the situation. I only use a garage with a proper mechanic and which handles a lot of classics work. Thanks to everyone for all the helpful suggestioms.the injection system is usually trouble-free and not really prone for any severe problems.
i would never trust any so called "i have also some expirience with classic cars"-garage.
the fod cologne V6 itsselves is a bit of a sluggish engine....so it was never a performance-wonder.
Oops, of course it is electronic.
I have a set of maintenance manuals for the Bosch fuel injection systems which includes a troubleshooting guide, as said above pretty reliable though but maybe a sensor is knackered.
If you want a copy of the files you will need to send me a pen drive to load them onto, too large to e mail them.
I will not put phone number on here, don’t know if you are permitted to send me an e mail maybe someone can advise you how to do that
I have a set of maintenance manuals for the Bosch fuel injection systems which includes a troubleshooting guide, as said above pretty reliable though but maybe a sensor is knackered.
If you want a copy of the files you will need to send me a pen drive to load them onto, too large to e mail them.
I will not put phone number on here, don’t know if you are permitted to send me an e mail maybe someone can advise you how to do that
Mercdriver said:
........I will not put phone number on here, don’t know if you are permitted to send me an e mail maybe someone can advise you how to do that
Use the PH PM system to send a message.Use free Wetransfer to send large files.
Mercdriver said:
Oops, of course it is electronic.
I have a set of maintenance manuals for the Bosch fuel injection systems which includes a troubleshooting guide, as said above pretty reliable though but maybe a sensor is knackered.
If you want a copy of the files you will need to send me a pen drive to load them onto, too large to e mail them.
I will not put phone number on here, don’t know if you are permitted to send me an e mail maybe someone can advise you how to do that
Thanks, Mercdriver. I'll see how I get on with the initial checks, and come back to you if I remain flummoxed.I have a set of maintenance manuals for the Bosch fuel injection systems which includes a troubleshooting guide, as said above pretty reliable though but maybe a sensor is knackered.
If you want a copy of the files you will need to send me a pen drive to load them onto, too large to e mail them.
I will not put phone number on here, don’t know if you are permitted to send me an e mail maybe someone can advise you how to do that
Well, I took the advice of V8S4Me, and have started looking at the basics - it looks as though no-one else has over the years. Here is the state of the dizzy cap inside, before cleaning up, all electrodes heavily oxidised.
State of the rotor arm compared with a new one I had handy:
After cleaning and refitting with new rotor arm and making sure all HT connectors clean and correctly pressed in to cap electrodes, I find that the engine seems to be firing better and so marks an improvement. I have ordered a new dizzy cap from the Continent: fingers crossed!
State of the rotor arm compared with a new one I had handy:
After cleaning and refitting with new rotor arm and making sure all HT connectors clean and correctly pressed in to cap electrodes, I find that the engine seems to be firing better and so marks an improvement. I have ordered a new dizzy cap from the Continent: fingers crossed!
Despite the improvement detailed in my last post, and the fact that car seems to be pulling a bit better, it still seems slow to pick up to about 2500 rpm. Here is a picture of the EMU : 
Steve Heath's book (p 86)says that this EMU code requires an adjustment to run on 95 octane unleaded. This is to be done via the octane adjustment plug which I think is what I have captured here:
Because neither of the appropriate brown/red, white brown/blue wires has been earthed, I it looks as though the adjustment has not been done.
Could someone advise please whether I should first check that static timing is 12deg BTDC, before making any change to the octane adjustment? I know that you have to take out the TPS connector to simulate code 60 for the static timing check.
Many thanks for suggestions.
Steve Heath's book (p 86)says that this EMU code requires an adjustment to run on 95 octane unleaded. This is to be done via the octane adjustment plug which I think is what I have captured here:
Because neither of the appropriate brown/red, white brown/blue wires has been earthed, I it looks as though the adjustment has not been done.
Could someone advise please whether I should first check that static timing is 12deg BTDC, before making any change to the octane adjustment? I know that you have to take out the TPS connector to simulate code 60 for the static timing check.
Many thanks for suggestions.
1) Yes
2) No. It's the dim-dip module. The ignition module is on the side of the distributor.
It's easiest to disconnect the ignition signal cable at the SPOUT terminal of the ECU. I used a tiny Faston plug & socket; I think others have used a microswitch. I'm away from home at the moment, but I'll check the pin number and wire colour later and let you know at the end of the day.
If you don't disconnect SPOUT, the timing (with a timing light) appears to jump around as the ECU corrects it. Disconnected, it's rock steady and relatively easy to set at 12deg.
2) No. It's the dim-dip module. The ignition module is on the side of the distributor.
It's easiest to disconnect the ignition signal cable at the SPOUT terminal of the ECU. I used a tiny Faston plug & socket; I think others have used a microswitch. I'm away from home at the moment, but I'll check the pin number and wire colour later and let you know at the end of the day.
If you don't disconnect SPOUT, the timing (with a timing light) appears to jump around as the ECU corrects it. Disconnected, it's rock steady and relatively easy to set at 12deg.
mentall said:
1) Yes
2) No. It's the dim-dip module. The ignition module is on the side of the distributor.
It's easiest to disconnect the ignition signal cable at the SPOUT terminal of the ECU. I used a tiny Faston plug & socket; I think others have used a microswitch. I'm away from home at the moment, but I'll check the pin number and wire colour later and let you know at the end of the day.
If you don't disconnect SPOUT, the timing (with a timing light) appears to jump around as the ECU corrects it. Disconnected, it's rock steady and relatively easy to set at 12deg.
Re 2) Very helpful. Facing bulkhead methinks... 2) No. It's the dim-dip module. The ignition module is on the side of the distributor.
It's easiest to disconnect the ignition signal cable at the SPOUT terminal of the ECU. I used a tiny Faston plug & socket; I think others have used a microswitch. I'm away from home at the moment, but I'll check the pin number and wire colour later and let you know at the end of the day.
If you don't disconnect SPOUT, the timing (with a timing light) appears to jump around as the ECU corrects it. Disconnected, it's rock steady and relatively easy to set at 12deg.
Re ignition timing:look forward to hearing from you. Another technique in the Frank Massey article Feb 1995 Car Mechanics cited above is to pull out TPS connector.
Tks.
Q. has the throttle pot been checked for it being the right one (common back in the day, AND there was a point where Ford sold the Pot with a connector and instructions to reverse the wiring...leading to a correct one still being wrong IF the wires have been swapped) cars with the wrong throttle pots work fine as you run part throttle most of the time, but once running, the more you press the pedal the more it runs incorrectly. Look for the wires about 3 inches away from the pot being cut and joined. A@
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_hVALnvAuE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_hVALnvAuE
Adrian@ said:
Q. has the throttle pot been checked for it being the right one (common back in the day, AND there was a point where Ford sold the Pot with a connector and instructions to reverse the wiring...leading to a correct one still being wrong IF the wires have been swapped) cars with the wrong throttle pots work fine as you run part throttle most of the time, but once running, the more you press the pedal the more it runs incorrectly. Look for the wires about 3 inches away from the pot being cut and joined. A@
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_hVALnvAuE
Thanks for that tip, Adrian, I'll have a look. Just been looking at spark plugs....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_hVALnvAuE
That's right: the Ignition module is at the back of the distributor body, with a multi-way connector coming off at the right-hand side.
Fordopedia says your ECU is for a:
GRANADA/SCORPIO MANUAL Engine: TV29EFI 1 - 12/88 6179811 86GB 12A650 AC. Hope this checks out!
At the ECU, the PIP signal (Profile Ignition Pickup) signal from the module comes in to ECU pin 56 on a blue/yellow wire.
The SPOUT (Spark Output) signal comes out of pin 36, and goes back to the module on a blue/red wire.
Warning: these colour codes are as on my car which is an S3C. A standard S3 (ie with Airflow meters) may have different colours; however the ECU pin connections will be correct: they are standard across all the EEC-IV engines.
You may have to alter the diagnostic connections: you'll be lucky to find a tester that plugs directly into the socket.
On Phillpot's picture above, Brown is +12V (ECU pins 40, 60)
Brown/green is STO (Self-test-output) (ECU pin 17) and also goes to the MIL warning light on the dashboard, if you have one.
Blue/green is STI (Self-test-input) (ECU pin 48).
These colour codes seem to be universal.
Good luck! I hope some of this is some help!
Fordopedia says your ECU is for a:
GRANADA/SCORPIO MANUAL Engine: TV29EFI 1 - 12/88 6179811 86GB 12A650 AC. Hope this checks out!
At the ECU, the PIP signal (Profile Ignition Pickup) signal from the module comes in to ECU pin 56 on a blue/yellow wire.
The SPOUT (Spark Output) signal comes out of pin 36, and goes back to the module on a blue/red wire.
Warning: these colour codes are as on my car which is an S3C. A standard S3 (ie with Airflow meters) may have different colours; however the ECU pin connections will be correct: they are standard across all the EEC-IV engines.
You may have to alter the diagnostic connections: you'll be lucky to find a tester that plugs directly into the socket.
On Phillpot's picture above, Brown is +12V (ECU pins 40, 60)
Brown/green is STO (Self-test-output) (ECU pin 17) and also goes to the MIL warning light on the dashboard, if you have one.
Blue/green is STI (Self-test-input) (ECU pin 48).
These colour codes seem to be universal.
Good luck! I hope some of this is some help!
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff