Top front ball joint

Top front ball joint

Author
Discussion

pies

13,116 posts

255 months

Sunday 8th July 2007
quotequote all
Because its not correct im sure its a 765 you need as its mountings are slightly smaller therefor giving you more wiggle room.Been out and checked the angle of the spiggot to the mounting and its identical

http://www.tvrsseries.com/765768.JPG

pies

13,116 posts

255 months

Sunday 8th July 2007
quotequote all
Graham YHM smile

Harry1972M

743 posts

243 months

Sunday 8th July 2007
quotequote all
Cheers Colin - Unfortunately will not be able to get my mail until tomorrow.

Graham

hansdaal

266 posts

266 months

Monday 9th July 2007
quotequote all
Hallo Guys,

I have some upper balljoints in stock. I sourced them in Germany and are the "narrow" type and will fit with no problems.
They are good quality OE items at a fair price.
You can contact me through my profile if interested.

Greetings

Hans.

baggiebird

81 posts

203 months

Monday 16th July 2007
quotequote all
This was a really useful thread for me. I have just removed the top ball joint on the near side on my S3c. This involved the use of a large forked splitter, once the rubber on the ball joint had been cut away, and the 19mm nut under the joint had been removed. At first it would not budge, but finally did after the application of considerable heat from a blow-torch to expand the female part, and some blows from a large club hammer. I made some small heat shields for the brake hoses from some thin aluminium which I think worked quite well.
My ball joint came from QH also.
The joint was quite worn, but I had already decided to replace top and bottom joints eahc side, which I think may be original. The car has done 57 000 miles

Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

203 months

Monday 16th July 2007
quotequote all
Glad my efforts helped you.
I had to beat the hell out of my balljoint splitter but it seperated in the end, but you're right 15 years or so sitting in there it isn't going to want to give up easily.


GreenV8S

30,129 posts

283 months

Monday 16th July 2007
quotequote all
The top ball joint I do by putting the whole adapter in a vice and hitting the bottom of the stud hard with a lump hammer and large drift. I put the retaining nut partway on upside down to help locate the drift and protect the exposed end of the thread - not that it matters particularly since the old joint is inevitably thrown away, I just don't like breaking things to take them apart.

clarenceboddiger

1,398 posts

214 months

Tuesday 17th July 2007
quotequote all
Just a tip if anyone is using the Screw type of Balljoint seperators, get plenty of pressure on it, apply heat to and give the female part of the assembly a sharp blow with a hammer.I have used this method on many occasions on industrial applications, sometimes with up to 90 tons of hydraulic pressure on the ram, it still needed a whack with a sledge hammer to shock it free.
Ps Dont hit the hub with a sledgehammer,a 2LB hammer should suffice and if it doesn't work after 1 to 3 blows then its not going to so try another method.

ketvrin

3,504 posts

208 months

Wednesday 18th July 2007
quotequote all
and wherever possible dont hit the cast iron hub assembly direct with a hammer anyway, always use a brass "drift" or piece of brass bar between the hammer and the hub. wink
I found it really useful to keep a brick close by too, so when frustration kicks in (it will...) you can throw the brick at something instead of taking it out on the hub biglaugh

Barkychoc

Original Poster:

7,848 posts

203 months

Wednesday 18th July 2007
quotequote all
Be careful - bricks can bounce you know, then where's it going to land ? yikes

ketvrin

3,504 posts

208 months

Wednesday 18th July 2007
quotequote all
roflroflrofl

pies

13,116 posts

255 months