Possible exhaust rattle

Possible exhaust rattle

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Discussion

Jed-S

Original Poster:

660 posts

216 months

Thursday 9th August 2007
quotequote all
Has anyone had problems with a rattle from the oval section of their exhaust? When I've been driving my car above 60mph then slow down I can hear a rattle that sounds like an exhaust rattle, but I can't be sure above all the other noise (tyre, wind, traffic, engine etc). The noise then clears after a 5-15 seconds but takes longer to clear the harder I've been driving. Unfortunately it doesn't do it long enough to stop and lift the bonnet to check that it isn't coming from the engine.

I know it isn't the square box section because I've had that open when I repacked it and the baffle plate is welded in place. I don't want to cut the oval section open unless I have to but I suspect this may happen. Then again it could be the engine, but it does sound like a thin metal plate rattling.

Any ideas?

cheers
Jed

S3 David

226 posts

228 months

Thursday 9th August 2007
quotequote all
Hi Jed. I had this same problem with the oval section as it had an inner layer of baffle which had started to break up. After two different occasions of removing bits I finally replaced it with straight pipes.

bil

118 posts

233 months

Friday 10th August 2007
quotequote all
hi jed,
when i first had the s3 it had a rattle as you describe, and the oval section of exhaust has obviously been cut open in the past looking at the weld lines on it. i was told that it was a baffle breaking loose from its repair weld, uummed and arred over taking the repairs apart again but something else aways took priority, in the end the noise just stopped (dont ask for a time frame it just didnt happen one day.)

Oh on a side note; 15deg listed in granada haynes manual for a 2.9V6 models with cat.

bil

Jed-S

Original Poster:

660 posts

216 months

Friday 10th August 2007
quotequote all
Thanks guys - looks like I'll have to buy some more plasma cutting discs and have a go. Cheaper than a new exhaust and I've just seen that the original shocks are starting to leak so more expense. frownfrown


Bil - thanks for that, I knew I'd seen a 15 degree timing quoted somewhere.

ketvrin

3,504 posts

209 months

Friday 10th August 2007
quotequote all
Jed-S said:
Bil - thanks for that, I knew I'd seen a 15 degree timing quoted somewhere.
I see 12 degrees in my Sierra Haynes and again here...

http://www.tvrsseries.com/

click on 2.9 datasheet and go to "Ignition" section

confused

edited to say I looked again and can see 15 degrees is listed for the S3C - wink

Edited by ketvrin on Friday 10th August 13:38

Jed-S

Original Poster:

660 posts

216 months

Friday 10th August 2007
quotequote all
As this thread has drifted I need to clarify something. For anyone thinking about setting the ignition timing of their S3/S3C to 15 degrees BTDC please note that you must use 97RON fuel and you must have the newer ECU that is mapped for 95RON

Other ECU and fuel/car combinations will use different settings.

Disclaimer: Use these settings at your own risk.



Jed-S

Original Poster:

660 posts

216 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
Result smilesmilesmile Cut open the oval section of the exhaust and the perforated inner looked fine so I welded it shut making sure I welded the perforated section as well - thinking that might stop it rattling. Took it for a blast and the horrendous rattle had gone... only to be replaced by a constant lower volume vibration that sounded like a moped. Not quite how a TVR should sound.....

Cut it open again and after a lot of cursing, grinding and clouting with a cold chisel I got the perforated section out. Checking the remains showed it was split along half its length.

Welded the box back together, sealed the joints with silicone and exhaust wrap and went for a blast. biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Finally the car is running nicely and can be driven hard without any dodgy or embarrasing noises. Just need to sort out the wheels and it might even be presentable then.

dern

14,055 posts

279 months

Monday 27th August 2007
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If it's the one that was on it when I had it then it's amazing that it's lasted so long. It was clouted a few time when I had it and the leading edge was rewelded. Confused that you have an oval silencer though as mine was a box so maybe it was a replacement.



Fascinated by your restoration diary on your website. It was never A1 when I had it but am amazed to see how much it had deteriorated by the time you got it. Looks like it's coming together for you though, great job you've done.

BTW, the speakers were my fault. I had them in the garage and they sounded pretty good in the last car but regretted the look as soon as I got the first one in. Still, you live and learn.

Edited by dern on Monday 27th August 21:20

Jed-S

Original Poster:

660 posts

216 months

Monday 27th August 2007
quotequote all
Hi Dern,
The oval section I was referring to is the bit in front of the rectangular box that is resting on the crate. It is now empty and when you hit 3000rpm the thing starts to howl. Below that it is fine so reasonably discrete around town but it is going to drive me mad on the dual carriageway. Might cause a problem on trackdays as well when I get around to doing one in it.

If you ever want the speakers back they're sitting on my desk....

Here's a pic of the interior with new seats and carpet...



Once the wheels are tidied up it will be a presentable car again - although it'll always be covered in mud. I've been looking at the spreadsheet of the costs and ignoring my time, the car still has cost less than £5k thanks to ebay so is still cheaper than one of the Westfields that it replaced.

Jed

dern

14,055 posts

279 months

Monday 27th August 2007
quotequote all
Jed-S said:
Here's a pic of the interior with new seats and carpet...
Looks great. Never knew what those two screws were for in the transmission tunnel cover.

AutoAndy

2,265 posts

215 months

Saturday 19th July 2014
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I have developed a slight baffley sounding rattle at tick over and found this thread whilst looking for ideas how to attack...

...the thing is, it is the same exhaust ...literally as it was the one I got from Jed when he took it off the car...

....I am not blaming you Jed ( considering what I didn't pay for it) but do you remember what was left inside it that could make the rattle.....or does any one else have any ideas before I attack it with an angle grinder?

Edited by AutoAndy on Saturday 19th July 09:30


Edited by AutoAndy on Saturday 19th July 09:31

RayTVR

1,040 posts

143 months

Saturday 19th July 2014
quotequote all
If it's any use to anyone I have an original S3 system in the garage after I went stainless. It had a loose baffle type noise from the back box, but would be serviceable. In the North East so wouldn't be easy transport wise..

Jed-S

Original Poster:

660 posts

216 months

Monday 21st July 2014
quotequote all
Hi Andy
All that was left in that exhaust was the perforated wavy baffle in the rectangular box and hopefully some wadding. I'm pretty sure that the front section was empty as I thought I removed all the perforated baffle.


AutoAndy

2,265 posts

215 months

Tuesday 22nd July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Jed...

Peter M

380 posts

254 months

Tuesday 22nd July 2014
quotequote all
My S2 exhaust rattled a lot when I first bought it. The system looks the same as the one you picture resting on the crate. In the end I opened up the rectangular section and found only bits of perforated steel baffle floating around, no wadding. The front oval section was completed empty, no baffles or wadding. After removing all the junk, I re-built it with just a short section of folded perforated steel baffle along half the length of the rectangular box and used loft insulation as wadding. The rest of the exhaust is completely empty.
The exhaust is loud, can get a bit much on the motorway with the roof on, I measured peaks up to 110dB at the passenger seat head rest !!! No good if you want to talk when driving, and forget listening to the radio (who wants to anyway with such a lovely exhaust)

Pete