petrol boost valve

[rnd]

Has anyone got any advice on fitting a Demon tweeks boost valve. Does it make much difference to acceleration (always looking for more power)I have sat and looked at it and for the life of me I cant figure how the old one comes out, and i am thinking of getting the Mark Adams chip in but i dont know if it is going to conflict with each other or if the chip does the same job as the boost valve. please help.

[HarryW]

Not sure if you are on about a rising rate fuel regulator,if so I think Johno or PaulV might have fitted one of those to his/their old S2. Can't remember the outcome though, I think you'd better wait for someone to respond that has/had a V6 S and done this.

Harry

[Rozza!!!]

The fuel pressure regulator (aka boost valve - silly name) is fastened in with a couple of hex screws. To remove it you simply take out the 2 screws and pull carefully as the regulator has an o-ring seal pushed into the fuel rail. Then I presume you simply fit the new one in its place also very carefully so as not to damage the o-ring as you push it into the fuel rail. I havent done it myself - yet - I do intend to at some point though.

Roy.

[MartS1]

Looks interesting ....so has anyone fitted one of these? Do they improve performance?

[GreenV8S]

Fuel pressure regulators normally raise the fuel pressure to match the increased manifold pressure as you open the throttle, so there is a constant pressure drop across the injectors. The boost valve is designed to raise the fuel pressure *more* when you open the throttle, making the engine run richer under load. If you car is initially set up with economy in mind, the extra fuel will typically improve power output and throttle response slightly. You can achieve a similar effect by 'chipping' i.e. changing the fuel map, typically to make it run richer at high throttle openings to improve the power output. Another much cruder way to improve the peak power output is just to raise the fuel pressure across the range, but this increases the fuelling at part load too which knackers the economy. From this point of view the boost valve is a fairly elegent solution and I don't see any reason not to do it. BUT, if you're going to have the ECU chipped I'd fit the boost valve first otherwise you will throw out all the carefully calibrated maps you've just paid for.

Incidentally, Mark Adams is very well known for tuning Rover V8 engines but I'm not aware of him working on the Ford V6. But it's a common enough engine and no doubt there are plenty of people who know how to tune it.

[M@H]

When I was new to my S I kept coming up with ideas on how I could make it faster, and indeed considered one of these rising rate fuel jobbies. At the end of the day though I realised by far the best way to make the car significantly quicker was to learn how to drive it properly. If 0-60 in a straight line is the objective then this will help, however driver training will make more of a difference than any other minor mod to a V6S.

Cheers
Matt.


>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 15th October 13:51

[griffman]

i have a 4.0 griff and its just returned from having work done to it including the mark adams fettling. he removed the fuel regulator you are talking about on mine as said it works against the advantages of the chip. try calling him and see what he says.

[andyf007]

Fitted an FSE power boost valve about 8 months ago and it did make a small difference to the performance once I finished adjusting it. The biggest difference was in the driveability, it seemed smoother when pulling away in the lower gears. It's overall effect will depend on the condition of the existing pressure regulator though. If it is giving poor pressure, then the gains may be more obvious.

Technically it increases the fuel pressure in the rail by 1.7 times the standard rate as you accelerate, pushing more fuel through the injectors for a given opening. It also gives you the ability to vary the initial pressure in the rail at idle. For £69 it's a cheap alternative to chipping or re-mapping.

Re-mapping does pretty much the same thing, but in a more controlled way, mainly by varying the opening times for the injectors, and can therefore be customised to get the best fuel rates for any given point in the rev range. It is not limited to 1.7 times standard.

I believe that you can get off the shelf chips with preset maps that can be fitted to the Ford ECU and claim to increase power, but chances are they would have been set up on a new engine and may be completely wrong for yours, taking wear and tear into account.

Personally, unless you are modifying the heads, cams cc's, etc., re-mapping may be an expensive folly and, if your engine is worn, it may not make much difference either.

For the best route to a faster S I would refer you to M@H's posting. If you need more than that then buy a V8 (and then refer to M@H's posting).

Andy

[rnd]

Thanks all for the replys
I will try the boost valve now that I know how it comes out. Never thought of a "o" ring. I thought it was screwed in and could not figure how I would get the "turning circle" to screw it out

[lordb]

I'm looking at the same modification and just received a quote for supply of an FSE valve. There are 2 to choose from (a) 69 quid (vertical fixing bolts) and 98 quid (horiz fixing bolts) from Proven Products (www.proven-products.co.uk).
Will experience of it when fitted..
R

[andyf007]

lordb said:

I'm looking at the same modification and just received a quote for supply of an FSE valve. There are 2 to choose from (a) 69 quid (vertical fixing bolts) and 98 quid (horiz fixing bolts) from Proven Products (www.proven-products.co.uk). Will experience of it when fitted.. R

That's the same price as www.motorsportworld.co.uk and does seem about the cheapest price. When I did mine it was £10 cheaper than going direct to FSE.

You will need the vertical bolt version, should be part no. PBV39430 or such like.

On my original valve the fuel return was on the top, on the new one it's at the bottom and may need a bit of jiggery pokery to re-route the return line. My old line was a semi-rigid pipe with a 90 degree pushfit connector, the new valve has a lip on the return pipe to enable a soft pipe and jubilee clip fixing arrangement for the return. I had to file the lip off smooth to allow the push fit to go on, and you will probably want to connect the pipe before you insert the new valve into the rail too, as it's a bit tight under there.

Andy

[lordb]

Cheers Andy..... its on order now!!