Discussion
Now I thought that title might get your attention, but a little misleading perhaps.
The rear rubber bumper strip is coming away and from what I can remember it is held in place with a metal strip. My question is .... does anyone make these strips and would it be possible to get one made in stainless steel to stop the next one disintegrating ?
Maybe if there is enough interest we can have a batch made up reasonably cheap but I don't have any contacts
The rear rubber bumper strip is coming away and from what I can remember it is held in place with a metal strip. My question is .... does anyone make these strips and would it be possible to get one made in stainless steel to stop the next one disintegrating ?
Maybe if there is enough interest we can have a batch made up reasonably cheap but I don't have any contacts
Hi Chris,
I had a similar problem with the front bumper strips. The steel insert disintegrates and the rubber bit begins to fall off!
I bought some strips of aluminium from B&Q which from memory where practically the same size and fairly cheap. Not as good as stainless but might suffice as they bend to form the correct curvature with ease.
I had a similar problem with the front bumper strips. The steel insert disintegrates and the rubber bit begins to fall off!
I bought some strips of aluminium from B&Q which from memory where practically the same size and fairly cheap. Not as good as stainless but might suffice as they bend to form the correct curvature with ease.
I cut some ali to the right width think I did two peices per bit of rubber.
It took a while to get all the rusty old bits out but a long screw driver and a bit of whacking had that sorted.
I drilled a small hole through the boot into the the rubber and through the ali, then used self tappers, one at a time to ensure alignment. Seemed to work pretty well.
It took a while to get all the rusty old bits out but a long screw driver and a bit of whacking had that sorted.
I drilled a small hole through the boot into the the rubber and through the ali, then used self tappers, one at a time to ensure alignment. Seemed to work pretty well.
Chris, I've found a couple of photos that might make it a bit clearer but bare in mind this is the arrangement on the front (although it must be similar at the back too).
There is a nut just visible in the photo's that secures the bolt in position so that you can thread it through the holes in the bodywork and secure with another nut at the rear(inside boot).
I'd forgotten just how rusty the originals where, not much left is there.
There is a nut just visible in the photo's that secures the bolt in position so that you can thread it through the holes in the bodywork and secure with another nut at the rear(inside boot).
I'd forgotten just how rusty the originals where, not much left is there.
I found that a length of alumium strip from B&Q (of the sort used to bridge the gap between two pieces of carpet in a door threshold) was exactly the correct width and just slid in. Removing the rusted steel one was more challenging and rJakeequired a dextrous bit of angle gringing inside the bonnet.
I replaced Austin's front bumper strips last March.
I used aluminium door plate strips that are for carpet joins in doorways.
( from Homebase or B&Q etc. ) Just drilled through the holes from inside the wing and secured using self tappers.
Drill & fit one at a time & take care that the drill doesn't 'snatch' & go through the rubber as well as your hand/ fingers
( Wind some masking tape thickly round the drill bit to make a drill stop at the required depth. Alternatively, use the masking tape to bandage your hand to stop the blood getting everywhere. The choice is yours 
)
I used aluminium door plate strips that are for carpet joins in doorways.
( from Homebase or B&Q etc. ) Just drilled through the holes from inside the wing and secured using self tappers.
Drill & fit one at a time & take care that the drill doesn't 'snatch' & go through the rubber as well as your hand/ fingers
( Wind some masking tape thickly round the drill bit to make a drill stop at the required depth. Alternatively, use the masking tape to bandage your hand to stop the blood getting everywhere. The choice is yours )Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 4th October 16:24
There was so little left of mine that I had to break the corroded rubbish out from the rubber. Proved to be an easy repair really. I just bought stainless strip from a local metal supplier. The strip was wide enough to fit neatly in the recess in the back of the bumper strips and just thin enough to bend round the corners. I wish I had kept a note of sizes but it was easy stuff to find.
I had removed the rusty remains of the old fittings from within the boot and bonnet. I got hold of some of the big, short, self tappers with hex heads (I was lucky enough to find some Ford ones with pre-attached washers).
Holding the rubber in place I merely drilled through from the back and used the big self tappers to secure it. Several years later I can still remove them if I need to (just had rear nearside off for a paint repair).
I had removed the rusty remains of the old fittings from within the boot and bonnet. I got hold of some of the big, short, self tappers with hex heads (I was lucky enough to find some Ford ones with pre-attached washers).
Holding the rubber in place I merely drilled through from the back and used the big self tappers to secure it. Several years later I can still remove them if I need to (just had rear nearside off for a paint repair).
DamianS3 said:
Looking to fix these on mine one have a very suspect budge. Did we ever identify a source for the rubbers ?
Cheers
Damian
It's usually the corroded strips that cause the bulgeing.Cheers
Damian
The rubbers are quite robust & should be salvageable, but Steve J found a profile that was a reasonable substitute.
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