Throttle cable alternatives
Discussion
Afternoon all.
After being left high and dry about a year ago when the throttle cable snapped at the engine end, I replaced it using the TVR Car Parts one. A couple of weeks ago, it let go again, this time at the pedal end after only 1200 or so miles of use!
I think the issue is the way the cable attaches to the pedal. Are all the setups the same? A groove in the top of the pedal which the cable fits into and then pinches closed? A metal tab on the end of the cable stops it pulling through. Mine had let go about half an inch from the metal tab. I think the arc the pedal top describes is at odds with the natural play in the cable and it causes a kink, which eventually wears through all the wires and 'PING', you're coasting into a layby on a busy dual carriageway.
After being left high and dry about a year ago when the throttle cable snapped at the engine end, I replaced it using the TVR Car Parts one. A couple of weeks ago, it let go again, this time at the pedal end after only 1200 or so miles of use!
I think the issue is the way the cable attaches to the pedal. Are all the setups the same? A groove in the top of the pedal which the cable fits into and then pinches closed? A metal tab on the end of the cable stops it pulling through. Mine had let go about half an inch from the metal tab. I think the arc the pedal top describes is at odds with the natural play in the cable and it causes a kink, which eventually wears through all the wires and 'PING', you're coasting into a layby on a busy dual carriageway.
Edited by dougc on Tuesday 6th April 14:40
If you check the actual groove/hole in the pedal itself then maybe there is a sharp edge on it or something which is catching the cable and slowly cutting through it, also worth taking the pedal itself off and greasing the clevis pin arangement and refitting, if your pedal is stiff then that could put extra strain on the cable.
Cheers.....Tony..
Cheers.....Tony..
I`ve been through 3 cables in 5 years and 16000 miles. 30 quid a cable 
it all adds up, I carry bicycle cable as a spare, of course it has to pass through the existing cable outer on the car and fit the pedal. At the engine end I attach it with the metal inner from a chocolate block electrical connector. Fitting takes about 5 minutes.
it all adds up, I carry bicycle cable as a spare, of course it has to pass through the existing cable outer on the car and fit the pedal. At the engine end I attach it with the metal inner from a chocolate block electrical connector. Fitting takes about 5 minutes.Had a couple or three go on me first time I was giving the old girl the full beans away from lights my big right foot pinged the end of the cable off.
I fitted a Capri cable as TVR carpets were out at the time this lasted for some time but looked really bodged on and eventually snapped at the peddle end.
I then fitted the replacement part from TVR carparts.I must have kinked it whilst fitting as that only lasted a matter of weeks Bugger.
Then decided I must have a real problem so srtipped the throttle housing down and ensured everthing was returning properly also fitted a couple of new springs.Quite a bit of up and down play so reshaped to remove.
Took the throttle pedal off and found the pedal was trapping on its bush. New washers new clevis pin cleaned everything up and took all the sharpe edges off and refitted.
I believe if the cables are kinked at any point then you have had it they will break.
From an old post on here was put onto a company called Spot on Control Cables sent my outer to him and he made me, and sent me back a very substantial cable.
Fitted with a new stop at the pedal end and all seems well so far
Cheers
I fitted a Capri cable as TVR carpets were out at the time this lasted for some time but looked really bodged on and eventually snapped at the peddle end.
I then fitted the replacement part from TVR carparts.I must have kinked it whilst fitting as that only lasted a matter of weeks Bugger.
Then decided I must have a real problem so srtipped the throttle housing down and ensured everthing was returning properly also fitted a couple of new springs.Quite a bit of up and down play so reshaped to remove.
Took the throttle pedal off and found the pedal was trapping on its bush. New washers new clevis pin cleaned everything up and took all the sharpe edges off and refitted.
I believe if the cables are kinked at any point then you have had it they will break.
From an old post on here was put onto a company called Spot on Control Cables sent my outer to him and he made me, and sent me back a very substantial cable.
Fitted with a new stop at the pedal end and all seems well so far
Cheers
Right.
Before I go outside and kill the car with fire and a hammer, HELP!!
Got the old one off OK and thanks to TVR Car Parts proactive marketing
I have a new one ready to go.
Two problems.
One - the slot in the top of the pedal is such that when the pedal is in a resting position (and the system is under tension) the cable simply falls out of the slot. Last time, with much swearing I closed the slot with pliers to spot this happening but I think this may have contributed to the premature failure this time.
Two - At the engine end, the cable attaches via a sort of 'ball and socket' arrangement, with the ball being on the throttle assembly and the socket on the end of the cable. However, the ball and socket is not a snug fit and tricky to get the two to stay together, compounded by the fact that the ball hangs downwards and the socket on the end of the cable, won't turn through 180 degrees to meet the ball without twisting the cable. The cable is then always trying to return to an untwisted position and pulls the joint apart.
Any thoughts? I really want to go out for a drive
Before I go outside and kill the car with fire and a hammer, HELP!!
Got the old one off OK and thanks to TVR Car Parts proactive marketing
I have a new one ready to go.Two problems.
One - the slot in the top of the pedal is such that when the pedal is in a resting position (and the system is under tension) the cable simply falls out of the slot. Last time, with much swearing I closed the slot with pliers to spot this happening but I think this may have contributed to the premature failure this time.
Two - At the engine end, the cable attaches via a sort of 'ball and socket' arrangement, with the ball being on the throttle assembly and the socket on the end of the cable. However, the ball and socket is not a snug fit and tricky to get the two to stay together, compounded by the fact that the ball hangs downwards and the socket on the end of the cable, won't turn through 180 degrees to meet the ball without twisting the cable. The cable is then always trying to return to an untwisted position and pulls the joint apart.
Any thoughts? I really want to go out for a drive
Doug, my thoughts are, firstly regarding the top picture surely if you tension the inner cable correctly then there would not be that slack you show and then cable will rest properly on the the pedal, and regarding the throttle body end shouldn't you have a black metal 'C'shaped clip that keeps the two together ? (like what is on the actual linkage itself)
Cheers.....Tony..
edited because I didn't read the post properly,
If you take the cable off completely and then refit the throttle linkage end first, that will ensure
the hole in the socket is the correct way up and therefore will be straight forward at the pedal end ! and you can take the slack up on the cable with the threaded adjuster as usual. Good luck
Cheers.....Tony..
edited because I didn't read the post properly,
If you take the cable off completely and then refit the throttle linkage end first, that will ensure
the hole in the socket is the correct way up and therefore will be straight forward at the pedal end ! and you can take the slack up on the cable with the threaded adjuster as usual. Good luck
Edited by tozerman on Saturday 10th April 13:00
king btozerman said:
Why not take the cable off and then drill a hole through the metal throttle end (same size as original hole) and just fit it like that ? then it will be the correct way up, it will not make any difference that I can think of.
Cheers.....Tony..
When I got my car my cable was attached using a bolt through the throttle arm (drilled hole just to left of the ball in top picture) and the cable end. It worked fine until I returned it to design intent, then found I couldn't get the right tension so returned to the bolt option, which then had to be reversed again when I got a straight throttle plate. Cheers.....Tony..
HTH
Mark
I have a technical solution (ie bodge) which has worked well on my V8S and saved me fortune. The linkage on the throttle end is different but you might be able to adapt it. I used a length of bowden cable sold by the meter from a motorcycle shop, soldered on a big nipple and then ran the cable from the footwell inside the original outer to the throttle linkage. I made up a link to the throttle lever which attached to the end of the new cable. The whole lot lost less than a tenner. I'll take some photos if you are interested. Joe
pleaseHopefully the pictures are self explanatory but if not just let me know. The "U" shaped bar comes from B&Q and the brass cable fixing is cut out of an electrical connector block. I soldered the brass fitting to the linkage but brazing would have been better. The soldered joint held 2.5kgs for 12 hours so should be good enough though.
Edited by v8s4me on Monday 12th April 22:47
Hi,
I have been reading the various comments about fitting a throttle cable and share the frustration. Maybe a simple question / answer, but how do I manage to get the rubber grommet affair into the two parts of the bulk-head? Should I thread the whole lot from the cockpit end through into the engine compartment or the other way round?
Tim
I have been reading the various comments about fitting a throttle cable and share the frustration. Maybe a simple question / answer, but how do I manage to get the rubber grommet affair into the two parts of the bulk-head? Should I thread the whole lot from the cockpit end through into the engine compartment or the other way round?
Tim
One of the problems with the cable set up is the lack of a stop for the pedal. This results in a lot of force being applied to the cable when the stop is reached at the throttle body end. I have made up a simple stop for the throttle pedal to stop this happening and have not had any breakages so far. I will try to post a picture of the arrangement tomorrow.
Rob.
Rob.
Sorry this post past me by first time around, thus this all might be irrelevant but i'll type because its better than working.
Some of the problems regarding the throttle cable stem from the original ford item having plastic ends. At the pedal end the the plastic stop end was attached to a plastic shoulder section that sat through the pedal thus the wire didnt make metal to metal contact. At the engine end there should be a tubualr clip that fits over the cupped end of the cable, the clip had just enough of a gap to allow the ball to be retained in the cup.
All of which is history and dosent help if you dont have the original parts or clips, hence the addaptions within the TVR ie "bolting" to the throttle arm or shrink wrapping the cable at the pedal end to give some protection.
At the last snap i found by replacing the cable only with new crimped end bits at each end, the existing sleeve was left in place thus the bulk head didnt need to be negotaited, followed up with some oil down the sleeve to assist in smooth operation.
HTH bil
Some of the problems regarding the throttle cable stem from the original ford item having plastic ends. At the pedal end the the plastic stop end was attached to a plastic shoulder section that sat through the pedal thus the wire didnt make metal to metal contact. At the engine end there should be a tubualr clip that fits over the cupped end of the cable, the clip had just enough of a gap to allow the ball to be retained in the cup.
All of which is history and dosent help if you dont have the original parts or clips, hence the addaptions within the TVR ie "bolting" to the throttle arm or shrink wrapping the cable at the pedal end to give some protection.
At the last snap i found by replacing the cable only with new crimped end bits at each end, the existing sleeve was left in place thus the bulk head didnt need to be negotaited, followed up with some oil down the sleeve to assist in smooth operation.
HTH bil
I had a bit of a nightmare with this too, but the cable has been fine since. Re the grommet - I found doing it from the engine end was the only way, or risk knackering your back in the foot well, but I used fairy liquid and a LOT of carefully applied heavy force. My cable (TVR car parts) didnt seem to have the reach required and the original set up I had also went through a hole in the middle of the arm (not the ball at the end). I had to march off to ford to get the required "C" clip as the cable didnt come with one, and finally to make things reach properly had to do a real ugly bodge and set up a new adjuster point about an inch behind the original before I gained the right adjustment and the cable worked freely. Additionally I chucked some WD40 down the cable sleeve itself, as it seemd a bit of the tight side and wouldnt return properly on decelleration.
I will post a photo if you think it might help.
Pete
I will post a photo if you think it might help.
Pete
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