fuel injectors
Discussion
I recently bought some injectors to replace the old ones but having just got to the point of replacing them I noticed they are different.
Does anyone with more experience in these things know if this is going to be an issue or not?
The new ones fit in the hole well and the lead attaches to them but the nozzle doesn't protrude as far.
fairly obviously the black clean one is the new one!
Does anyone with more experience in these things know if this is going to be an issue or not?
The new ones fit in the hole well and the lead attaches to them but the nozzle doesn't protrude as far.
fairly obviously the black clean one is the new one!
orange_dodo said:
The new ones fit in the hole well and the lead attaches to them but the nozzle doesn't protrude as far.
fairly obviously the black clean one is the new one!
Made no difference on mine and went through the Mot today with very good emissions, the ones you have look like the ones I bought. At the end of the day it is a spray from the nozzle which goes into inlet in the form of a mist.fairly obviously the black clean one is the new one!
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Friday 16th April 18:03
I think I'm just nervous as this is the furthest into the engine I have ventured and I don't want to break anything!
The injectors are now in and from the state of the old ones I think they needed changing. Given the fuel rail a lick of paint so I just need to reassemble tomorrow.
Getting the fuel rail off was a right bugger so I have a feeling getting it on won't be easy. Did you clean out any junk that may have fallen in the fuel rail? I haven't disconnected the fuel line as i couldn't figure out how to without cutting the line. I'm worried any dust that has got in is just going to clog up my nice new injectors.
Running the fuel pump with the fuel rail off doesn't seem like a smart idea to me though!
The injectors are now in and from the state of the old ones I think they needed changing. Given the fuel rail a lick of paint so I just need to reassemble tomorrow.
Getting the fuel rail off was a right bugger so I have a feeling getting it on won't be easy. Did you clean out any junk that may have fallen in the fuel rail? I haven't disconnected the fuel line as i couldn't figure out how to without cutting the line. I'm worried any dust that has got in is just going to clog up my nice new injectors.
Running the fuel pump with the fuel rail off doesn't seem like a smart idea to me though!
Well the injectors are now in after i figured out the easy way to remove/replace them as opposed to my cackhanded incredibly difficult approach I used to get them out originally.
I ended up cleaning the fuel rail out with brake cleaner to wash any crap out, although I then discovered it dissolves Hammerite very quickly which was a little messy!
All back in and running now though and it definitely idles better. Off up to cheddar gorge with the South West lot today so that should be a good run to see what the injectors have done and to actually drive the car for once instead of swearing at it
I ended up cleaning the fuel rail out with brake cleaner to wash any crap out, although I then discovered it dissolves Hammerite very quickly which was a little messy!
All back in and running now though and it definitely idles better. Off up to cheddar gorge with the South West lot today so that should be a good run to see what the injectors have done and to actually drive the car for once instead of swearing at it
For anyone wanting to change injectors/fuel rail I thought I'd relay my experiences as it took me 3 days on and off but I could now do the whole job in an hour or 2 probably knowing what I now know. This all started as I had a fast idle problem so needed to remove the ISCV and clean it. Managed to snap a bolt in the process so needed to remove the plenum to get the remainder of the bolt out. While I was at it I decided to replace the injectors and clean up and paint the fuel rail.
Firstly I depressurised the fuel rail by starting the engine and pulling the fuel pump relay (big yellow one in the rats nest in the passenger footwell) out and waiting for the engine to stop which worked nicely.
I then disconnected the battery and the pipes attached to the plenum and removed the plenum. It was at this point that I found my brake vacuum hose was split which explains the shocking brake performance I had recently and possibly my fast idle problem which started this whole palaver.
The plenum is easy to remove and leaves the fuel rail exposed. I had the fabricated fuel rail which weaves its way between the plenum and head but there is also a fuel rail which is sandwiched between the two. The rail I had required the left rocker cover to be removed too to access the 2 left side bolts holding the rail on but this may not be necessary if you have a skinny spanner.
I spent ages fiddling about disconnecting the leads to the injectors and pulling the clips that hold the injectors to the rail off. I then pulled the rail off the injectors which poured fuel everywhere! The easiest way to actually do this is to disconnect the leads and LABEL THEM! (although you may not need to), and then pull the injectors out of the head while still attached to the rail. Mine were fairly tight but a good pull popped them out. This way also saves from pouring the remaining fuel in the rail everywhere.
Once the injectors on one side are out pull the rail the other way and the other 3 should pop out. now the clips will be really easy to slide off and the injectors can be removed (they were seriously tight on mine) over a bucket to catch the fuel.
When you put it all back you'll need either 2 new gaskets for the cast sandwiched rail, or just the top one of the 2 for the other type although I had to cut the gasket as it wouldn't fit with the connecting sections in place.
The injectors were much easier to fit once I had cleaned the holes with carb cleaner on a cotton bud. Beware though, carb cleaner dissolves yogurt pots used to hold said carb cleaner. Oh and it also dissolves Hammerite a treat too....
When the fuel rail was back on I disconnected the starter solenoid (so I couldn't accidently start it) and turned the key to position 2 a few times to re-pressurise the fuel rail and check for leaks. Then back on with the plenum, connect up all the hoses and fire her up!
Hope that helps someone in the future as I couldn't find anything about it when I looked.
Firstly I depressurised the fuel rail by starting the engine and pulling the fuel pump relay (big yellow one in the rats nest in the passenger footwell) out and waiting for the engine to stop which worked nicely.
I then disconnected the battery and the pipes attached to the plenum and removed the plenum. It was at this point that I found my brake vacuum hose was split which explains the shocking brake performance I had recently and possibly my fast idle problem which started this whole palaver.
The plenum is easy to remove and leaves the fuel rail exposed. I had the fabricated fuel rail which weaves its way between the plenum and head but there is also a fuel rail which is sandwiched between the two. The rail I had required the left rocker cover to be removed too to access the 2 left side bolts holding the rail on but this may not be necessary if you have a skinny spanner.
I spent ages fiddling about disconnecting the leads to the injectors and pulling the clips that hold the injectors to the rail off. I then pulled the rail off the injectors which poured fuel everywhere! The easiest way to actually do this is to disconnect the leads and LABEL THEM! (although you may not need to), and then pull the injectors out of the head while still attached to the rail. Mine were fairly tight but a good pull popped them out. This way also saves from pouring the remaining fuel in the rail everywhere.
Once the injectors on one side are out pull the rail the other way and the other 3 should pop out. now the clips will be really easy to slide off and the injectors can be removed (they were seriously tight on mine) over a bucket to catch the fuel.
When you put it all back you'll need either 2 new gaskets for the cast sandwiched rail, or just the top one of the 2 for the other type although I had to cut the gasket as it wouldn't fit with the connecting sections in place.
The injectors were much easier to fit once I had cleaned the holes with carb cleaner on a cotton bud. Beware though, carb cleaner dissolves yogurt pots used to hold said carb cleaner. Oh and it also dissolves Hammerite a treat too....
When the fuel rail was back on I disconnected the starter solenoid (so I couldn't accidently start it) and turned the key to position 2 a few times to re-pressurise the fuel rail and check for leaks. Then back on with the plenum, connect up all the hoses and fire her up!
Hope that helps someone in the future as I couldn't find anything about it when I looked.
Hi Tom
this covers removal of the cylinder heads and covers some of what you describe too.
Dont ask me why I am looking at this
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/engines/12v/V6...
theres more of these in the Useful Links Wiki V6 Engine section...
HTH
K
this covers removal of the cylinder heads and covers some of what you describe too.
Dont ask me why I am looking at this
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/engines/12v/V6...
theres more of these in the Useful Links Wiki V6 Engine section...
HTH
K
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