Wiring a new stereo...
Discussion
Right, I will be collecting a new Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit later in the week and need some advice before fitting it into my V8S.
I have just removed the old unit to see what sort of wiring I am faced with. The multi-plug has nine round pins, one of which is omitted on the headunit side.
Can I purchase an adapter to plug straight into this, or am I likely to need to cut and join the various wires? (as has obviously been done before)
Has anyone sortedout which wire is which and recorded this information? Some seem to be twinned, another forms a loop between two terminals and one is cut off right at the terminal. Looks like a problem waiting to happen!
Any wise words?
I have just removed the old unit to see what sort of wiring I am faced with. The multi-plug has nine round pins, one of which is omitted on the headunit side.
Can I purchase an adapter to plug straight into this, or am I likely to need to cut and join the various wires? (as has obviously been done before)
Has anyone sortedout which wire is which and recorded this information? Some seem to be twinned, another forms a loop between two terminals and one is cut off right at the terminal. Looks like a problem waiting to happen!
Any wise words?
The wiring on these is usually pretty standard - IF - you haven't taken the header plug off. Red is 12V, Yellow is 12V switched (often wired direct to the red to make it indpendent of the ignition), Black is neutral, Blue is a 12V switched output (usually used for motorised ariels or an external amp - probably the one that is cropped off on yours). Purple, Green, Grey and White pairs (?) are for the speakers (I can't remember which is which but the manual for your new stereo will).
Important point is that in each pair, one will have a black stripe on it - make sure you consistently wire this to the -ve terminal of each speaker, otherwise your speakers will end up out of phase with each other giving exciting sound cancelling effects at different positions in the car !
The TVR wiring loom could well use all sorts of exciting colours but these are usually connected to the wires on the header plug by bullet connectors - so as long as you take notes as to which TVR colour is which Header Plug wire before you disconnect the header plug - you should be okay.
Good Luck and happy Audio,
WG
Important point is that in each pair, one will have a black stripe on it - make sure you consistently wire this to the -ve terminal of each speaker, otherwise your speakers will end up out of phase with each other giving exciting sound cancelling effects at different positions in the car !
The TVR wiring loom could well use all sorts of exciting colours but these are usually connected to the wires on the header plug by bullet connectors - so as long as you take notes as to which TVR colour is which Header Plug wire before you disconnect the header plug - you should be okay.
Good Luck and happy Audio,
WG
You new stereo will (probably) have an ISO connector on it which is different to the ford thingy there at present. When I changed mine I got an ISO lead and connected that to the out going wires from the existing ford plug (left this all plugged together as I couldn't be bothered to chop it all back as there wasn't much room to work).
Shouldn't be too difficult (IIRC the wires on the ISO are all labeled) so it should just be a case of 'matching' whats connected to the back of the existing stereo to the new cables on the ISO lead.
Just check which are the switched and permanent feeds for the power etc.
Then its just a case of pluging in the new stereo and 'loosing' the cables in that stupidly small space in the dash....
Hope this makes sense.....
Chris
Shouldn't be too difficult (IIRC the wires on the ISO are all labeled) so it should just be a case of 'matching' whats connected to the back of the existing stereo to the new cables on the ISO lead.
Just check which are the switched and permanent feeds for the power etc.
Then its just a case of pluging in the new stereo and 'loosing' the cables in that stupidly small space in the dash....
Hope this makes sense.....
Chris
woody said:I think pretty much all new stereos have a standard ISO connector on them now - that's why places like Halfords offer free fitting because it's basically a slide out / slide in job.
You new stereo will (probably) have an ISO connector on it which is different to the ford thingy there at present.
Anyhow, if the connector that on that ATM is a standard Ford one, it'd be worth taking a look in Halfords as they do a load of adaptors to allow you to connect an ISO connector to a manufacturer's own. If you can find the appropriate one then it should be a straightforward plug together job.
Took the car along to my local car audio shop to day and the chap kindly came out with his catalogue of ISO adapters. Guess what.... nothing matched what I have in my dash (surprise surprise 
)
Think I'll have to cut and join the wires t suit. I have an ISO plug with bare end wires, so just need to join relevant ones from dash to that.
Think I've sussed which are the speakers. The blue wire is probably for the power antenna, as suggested. I have a red (live) and a black (earth) then a brown/purple stripe and 2 purple/red stripe in one terminal. I'm guessing one of these is the direct live for memory?
) Think I'll have to cut and join the wires t suit. I have an ISO plug with bare end wires, so just need to join relevant ones from dash to that.
Think I've sussed which are the speakers. The blue wire is probably for the power antenna, as suggested. I have a red (live) and a black (earth) then a brown/purple stripe and 2 purple/red stripe in one terminal. I'm guessing one of these is the direct live for memory?
pstruck said:
Took the car along to my local car audio shop to day and the chap kindly came out with his catalogue of ISO adapters. Guess what.... nothing matched what I have in my dash (surprise surprise
Think I've sussed which are the speakers. The blue wire is probably for the power antenna, as suggested. I have a red (live) and a black (earth) then a brown/purple stripe and 2 purple/red stripe in one terminal. I'm guessing one of these is the direct live for memory?
Whoops - got it slightly wrong - oddly the yellow is the permanent 12V, it's the red which is switched through the ignition.
All the speaker wires are on one plug and ... oh s*d it - I'll scan the document - hang on a minute ...
Here's a little tip for you: if you want to work out which wires are for which speaker, briefly touch/brush the two wires in question to either end of a AA battery and the speaker will give a little buzz. I'd recommend ensuring that you've already identified the live wires before you do this!
pstruck said:
Thanks WG. In fact all the wires on the new headunit and ISO adapter are labelled. It's the ones coming out of the dash I need to sort out. Trial and error I guess as there's only about 3 which I'm unsure about. Don't want to end up blowing too many fuses though!
You really need to identify which are power switched through the iginition before you go on. You could try making a logic probe using a torch bulb and a couple of wires (12V might blow the bulb mind - check the rating first). Alternatively a red LED in series with something like a 180 ohm resistor would do the trick.
The good news - is that none of them are going to be a phone mute wire though
WonkyGibbon said:I've got a little test lamp thing which cost me a few quid a while back from somewhere like Halfords etc. It's basically a small screwdriver type arrangement with a pointed end and a bulb in the middle; it then has a wire coming out of the top with a crocodile clip on the end which you can clip to an earth point. It really is invaluable for doing this kind of job!
You really need to identify which are power switched through the iginition before you go on. You could try making a logic probe using a torch bulb and a couple of wires (12V might blow the bulb mind - check the rating first). Alternatively a red LED in series with something like a 180 ohm resistor would do the trick.
The good news - is that none of them are going to be a phone mute wire though
Job done.
Had to remove original multi-plug in dash and wire in an ISO lead. Managed to sort out which was the battery constant wire, but the ignition switched power wire was elusive. I think it is the red one, but it's dead. Must be a fault on that circuit somewhere. Wired in a connection to the battery connection so at least it works.
There is a wire on the stereo harness for the dash lighting. Is this as simple as connecting to one of the instrument backlights?
Had to remove original multi-plug in dash and wire in an ISO lead. Managed to sort out which was the battery constant wire, but the ignition switched power wire was elusive. I think it is the red one, but it's dead. Must be a fault on that circuit somewhere. Wired in a connection to the battery connection so at least it works.
There is a wire on the stereo harness for the dash lighting. Is this as simple as connecting to one of the instrument backlights?
pstruck said:I took a feed off the illumination supply for one of the window switches as it was easy to get to with the tunnel in place. If you pull the tunnel out a bit, the ciggy lighter illumination is easy to get to as should be the bulb holder for the switch illumination.
There is a wire on the stereo harness for the dash lighting. Is this as simple as connecting to one of the instrument backlights?
I'd've thought that the intrument backlights would be a bit of a bugger to get to.
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