Discussion
Hi I'm new to PH but have been following a number of threads for some time. The thread I have been following lately is on the topic of door hanging/adjustments. The threads and the pictures to illustrate the adjustment process have been really informative. However, I'm still uncertain on how to lift the door on the hinge/pivot bolt. Let me try to explain my problem:
Both my doors, the passenger side is the worst, drop at the rear (at the striker end ) and have to be lifted to engage the stricker to close them. In addition the bottom rear corners are proud by about half an inch. The top and front edge of the doors fit flush.
I have stripped the door cards and removed the glass frames and can see clearly the top and bottom pivot bolts and the four adjustment bolts.But I can not for the life of me, see how I can raise the back edge of the door to get the correct profile.There is play in the door at the top hinge.
So after all this my question is will renewing the plastic hinge bushes help or can I adjust the door using the hinge bolts or am I missing something completely. I would appreciate any help members could give me.......Thanks...TOM
Both my doors, the passenger side is the worst, drop at the rear (at the striker end ) and have to be lifted to engage the stricker to close them. In addition the bottom rear corners are proud by about half an inch. The top and front edge of the doors fit flush.
I have stripped the door cards and removed the glass frames and can see clearly the top and bottom pivot bolts and the four adjustment bolts.But I can not for the life of me, see how I can raise the back edge of the door to get the correct profile.There is play in the door at the top hinge.
So after all this my question is will renewing the plastic hinge bushes help or can I adjust the door using the hinge bolts or am I missing something completely. I would appreciate any help members could give me.......Thanks...TOM
Hi Tom and welcome to the forum...
have you seen this post in the FAQ's ?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... rehanging
good luck (I've not done this)
K
have you seen this post in the FAQ's ?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... rehanging
good luck (I've not done this)
K
Hi Both Phillpot and Ketvrin, Thanks for the welcome and your response to my problem. K, I have seen the thread you sent me and have followed it as far as I can. It says " if the hinge is worn than pack out under the pivot bolt" I do not know if that is between the door skin and the hinge plate or between the door and the sill. When you come to do yours you will see what I mean. The condition of the bolts and the pivot bolts on my car seems really good with no signs of rust, looks like they could have been renewed in the last couple of years
Hi Tom
Welcome.
If your doors have movement, I would suggest either:
The large 17mm bolts that go through the bush have become loose or the bush itself is worn.
I got the bushes from TVR Car Parts. Replacing the bushes that go in the metal hinge is relatively straight forward, you can do one at a time i.e. top or bottom. Leave the door shut so you use the latch and the hinge that you leave in place to hold the door in situ. Don't tighten the bolts fully until you have replaced both top and bottom, this will allow maximum adjustment. Take out the seat use the other side to gain access in and out of the car.
You only need to start worrying about fibre glassing if the bobbins have come away from either the body or the doors.
Hope this helps.
Liam
Welcome.
If your doors have movement, I would suggest either:
The large 17mm bolts that go through the bush have become loose or the bush itself is worn.
I got the bushes from TVR Car Parts. Replacing the bushes that go in the metal hinge is relatively straight forward, you can do one at a time i.e. top or bottom. Leave the door shut so you use the latch and the hinge that you leave in place to hold the door in situ. Don't tighten the bolts fully until you have replaced both top and bottom, this will allow maximum adjustment. Take out the seat use the other side to gain access in and out of the car.
You only need to start worrying about fibre glassing if the bobbins have come away from either the body or the doors.
Hope this helps.
Liam
Hi Gerald, Liam, Thanks for your response. Gerald I live just outside Hinckley and work in Coventry so I could use Adrian Venn but having just bought this car fir my retirement project money is a bit tight for a few months...could you give me some idea of the cost?
Liam, Thanks for your advice, I will send off for the new bushes and try it the way you describe. I will let you know how I get on! Tom
Liam, Thanks for your advice, I will send off for the new bushes and try it the way you describe. I will let you know how I get on! Tom
Hi Liam,
I have been in touch with TVR car parts as you suggested. However, they tell me that the S cars have two different thread sized bushes (M8 or M10) the M8 bush is no longer available but I can have the M10 and the threaded bobbins that the bolts screw into. They do not supply the bolts( my bolts although new seem to be way to long,about an inch and a half shank showing above the bush when fully tightened. Do you know if the M10 bushes are OK to use and where I would get hold of the correct bolts???
I do not want to replace the bobbins as I believe they are bonded into the body and a major job to replace ???
Tom
I have been in touch with TVR car parts as you suggested. However, they tell me that the S cars have two different thread sized bushes (M8 or M10) the M8 bush is no longer available but I can have the M10 and the threaded bobbins that the bolts screw into. They do not supply the bolts( my bolts although new seem to be way to long,about an inch and a half shank showing above the bush when fully tightened. Do you know if the M10 bushes are OK to use and where I would get hold of the correct bolts???
I do not want to replace the bobbins as I believe they are bonded into the body and a major job to replace ???
Tom
Hi Tom
This tread http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/post.asp?h=0&am...
especially this comment
Adrian@Should help - as I said before talk to Adrian very knowledgeable and very helpful
Norman
This tread http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/post.asp?h=0&am...
especially this comment
Adrian@ said:
phillpot said:
Did you take any photo's ?
Would like to "understand" the hinge arrangement a bit better before trying to take some of the drop out of my drivers side door.
Critical to the understanding of the hinge is...that the hinge bolts are NOT just a 10mm bolt, the start of the taper to the shank MUST lock onto the bobbin in the shell, IF the replacement bolt does not lock-out on the shank, then it is relies on the whole bolt bottoming out against the fibreglass holding the bobbin into the tub (on the upper bobbin it breaks through the painted area above) and the threads of the brass bobbin for it's stability and will not last long.Would like to "understand" the hinge arrangement a bit better before trying to take some of the drop out of my drivers side door.
Adrian@
Norman
Tom
if you can wait until Mon/Tues I will post some photos of the hinges and all should become clear. I have taken a pair of hinges from a door on an S2 I broke some time ago, but cant take photos until my wife brings the camers back after going to see our new grandaughter in London
Norman
if you can wait until Mon/Tues I will post some photos of the hinges and all should become clear. I have taken a pair of hinges from a door on an S2 I broke some time ago, but cant take photos until my wife brings the camers back after going to see our new grandaughter in London
Norman
tom traynor said:
Norman,
I can wait until Monday for the photos.........thanks for your patience. I'm still not sure if I should order the bushes,will 10m be OK thats the dilemma!
Tom
See what size spanner fits the head of the bolt, if its 17mm then the shank of the bolt is 10mm, if its 13mm then the shank of the bolt is 8mm.I can wait until Monday for the photos.........thanks for your patience. I'm still not sure if I should order the bushes,will 10m be OK thats the dilemma!
Tom
The ones I have removed today consist of three bolts with the centre one being the hinge pivot and it does extend above the fitting, is M10 and the bobin fixed to the body tub is M10, there are a pair of M8 bolts, one each side which bolt into M8 bobbins fixed to the door. They pass throught oversized hole in the plate which then allow adjustment.
But wait until I can post photos it will become MUCH clearer
Picture from FAQ thread which will help
Edited by Gerald-TVR on Saturday 27th November 16:02
As promised phots of the hinge bits
Complete upper hinge which was 'hacked' out of the body tub
Bobbins inside the door
Exploded hinge
The M10 bobbins and the nylon 'top hat' bushes are available from TVR Car Parts. As I understand it the critical thing is to have the M10 hinge bolt tighten into the bobbin
without any thread protruding, this is certainly so for the top hinge but possibly the bottom bobbin has a void below.
The unthreaded shank needs to be approx 52mm and the threaded length no more than 15mm, to achieve this you will have to have to cut down a longer bolt, probably 70 - 80mm overall length.
Earlier cars possibly S1 but with TVR who knows used M8 bobbins but neither they or the appropriate nylon bush is available. However the outside diameter of the both the M10 and M8 bushes are identical so as long as the bobbin glassed into the body shell is changed to an M10 earlier hinges can be reconditioned.
I have all the other dimensions if anybody would like them
Complete upper hinge which was 'hacked' out of the body tub
Bobbins inside the door
Exploded hinge
The M10 bobbins and the nylon 'top hat' bushes are available from TVR Car Parts. As I understand it the critical thing is to have the M10 hinge bolt tighten into the bobbin
without any thread protruding, this is certainly so for the top hinge but possibly the bottom bobbin has a void below.
The unthreaded shank needs to be approx 52mm and the threaded length no more than 15mm, to achieve this you will have to have to cut down a longer bolt, probably 70 - 80mm overall length.
Earlier cars possibly S1 but with TVR who knows used M8 bobbins but neither they or the appropriate nylon bush is available. However the outside diameter of the both the M10 and M8 bushes are identical so as long as the bobbin glassed into the body shell is changed to an M10 earlier hinges can be reconditioned.
I have all the other dimensions if anybody would like them
Edited by Gerald-TVR on Monday 29th November 15:21
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