Discussion
phillpot said:
Just curious, where are you squeezing in the epoxy?
In short, A. The upper bobbin takes a lot of stress when people enter and exit the car if they hang on the door. In my case, it was a bit loose in the fibre glass, so I cut the bolt head off to avoid any further damage from removal, then took the door off and forced as much epoxy as I could into the small gaps between the bobbin and the fibre glass. In hindsight I might have just been able to re-adjust the upper hinge to lift the rear of the door so it clears the sill, but I wanted to know the condition of the hinges and top hats as well.
S2Mike said:
I am poised with a tube of epoxy type glue ready to inject around the bobbin, just like yourself, please let us know the outcome.
So far, so good! It's all back together, no play, no rubbing. I have no idea how long it will last, but I think next time I will just slacken the upper 2 bolts and adjust with the door in the sagged position. I can't face the thought of having to replace the bobbin.Magpies - I think a good squirt of WD40 around the top hinge should get some lubrication between the bolt and the bushing without resorting to disassembly.
Gerald-TVR said:
I was told that they were identical by someone I know and trust, if you drop me a PM I will send dimensions to you, also if you let me have your address I can let you have an old bush to look at. But as with all information please use at your qwn risk
I'm not sure I'd like an 'old bush to look at' through the post.. am I on the right websiteI recall my battle with mine in the first days of ownership.
You definitely need a modern ratchet to get the bolts out. I had one with 13 or so clicks per 360 degrees and nearly lacerated my arms off in a seemingly endless one-click cycle. Then I bought a 26 (or so) click ratchet and did the other door in half the time.
There was no way wd40 or similar was helping mine
The feeling whn you finally get the barstools out is good.
You definitely need a modern ratchet to get the bolts out. I had one with 13 or so clicks per 360 degrees and nearly lacerated my arms off in a seemingly endless one-click cycle. Then I bought a 26 (or so) click ratchet and did the other door in half the time.
There was no way wd40 or similar was helping mine
The feeling whn you finally get the barstools out is good.
It is a bit since this one was up, assuming my search hasn't missed many posts!
Just to confirm the S1 (or at least my S1, this is TVR after all!) has 8mm door hinge bolts (and 8mm bolts holding the hinge mounting plates to the door itself).
TVR Parts have the 10mm sleeve (part TVR U0007) but not the 8mm one (they didn't even know it existed!)
I don't suppose anybody has any 8mm I.D. sleeves or a source?
If not it looks like it will have to be the friendly man with the lathe. Do I get them in brass or plastic I wonder?
Just to confirm the S1 (or at least my S1, this is TVR after all!) has 8mm door hinge bolts (and 8mm bolts holding the hinge mounting plates to the door itself).
TVR Parts have the 10mm sleeve (part TVR U0007) but not the 8mm one (they didn't even know it existed!)
I don't suppose anybody has any 8mm I.D. sleeves or a source?
If not it looks like it will have to be the friendly man with the lathe. Do I get them in brass or plastic I wonder?
I'd change the bobbins and go 10mm ... 
Is there enough metal to drill 'n tap them out?
Or, better still, rather than the crude tightening onto the end of the thread/ shank of the bolt, have an M8 thread turned onto an M10 bolt leaving the shank the correct length, this will give a little shoulder to tighten onto.
Is there enough metal to drill 'n tap them out?
Or, better still, rather than the crude tightening onto the end of the thread/ shank of the bolt, have an M8 thread turned onto an M10 bolt leaving the shank the correct length, this will give a little shoulder to tighten onto.Edited by phillpot on Monday 26th February 19:33
phillpot said:
Is there enough metal to drill 'n tap them out?
Or, better still, rather than the crude tightening onto the end of the thread/ shank of the bolt, have an M8 thread turned onto an M10 bolt leaving the shank the correct length, this will give a little shoulder to tighten onto.
Yes, I've been thinking about it and I agree with you Mike, thanks for reinforcing my thoughts. First thing is to investigate tapping out to 10mm, it looks as if that might well be 'on' provided none of the bobbins are at all weak. Then it is simple and OK for the future as the sleeves are available. Then stainless 100mm socket head cap screws for ease! Or, better still, rather than the crude tightening onto the end of the thread/ shank of the bolt, have an M8 thread turned onto an M10 bolt leaving the shank the correct length, this will give a little shoulder to tighten onto.Edited by phillpot on Monday 26th February 19:33
Car is currently in a 'tent' so it remains to be seen if weather will allow me out there tomorrow. Brass money weather and I dont do brazing repairs!
Well that is the drivers door bobbins drilled (8.4mm) and tapped to M10 x1.5. A bit nervous doing it in case the bobbins weren't secure enough but I was gentle and all appears well. New A4 stainless allen screws on their way. New inserts in the swivels in the door. Just got to pray I took enough care and it all lines up OK.
Bit chilly in the tent but being a northerner I just found another old fleece!!!
Bit chilly in the tent but being a northerner I just found another old fleece!!!
This time I will, very unusually, disagree with you Richard 
. The engineer in me has been considering the forces. The size of the bolt going from 8 to 10mm doesn't make any significant difference to the strength of the bobbin itself, the bobbin doesn't break or distort..
It is the ability of the bobbin to take a bending moment which is the first cause of failure, and that doesn't change. That is proportional to the length and weight of the door. (and it is lighter now I have cleared the crap out and widened the drain holes!)
The second cause is the ability to stand a torque load if the bolt seizes in the bush (as we both know they do with lack of maintenance). If the bolt seizes that torque is related to the length of the door not the diameter or the bolt. And anyway as the new bolt is stainless and will be well greased the torque will be minimal!
Am I right?
I will admit to one small problem I created myself. When I bought the car it was pretty well derelict and the door was very stiff. Despite my best efforts to free it the top bobbin was loose and turned in the bodywork. I made a new bobbin, in stainless, with a little serrated plate to help secure it, and with the aid of a little 'keyhole surgery' from above I glassed it in very firmly. Drilling and tapping 10mm into stainless is a VERY different proposition to doing so in brass!! What a bugger!
. The engineer in me has been considering the forces. The size of the bolt going from 8 to 10mm doesn't make any significant difference to the strength of the bobbin itself, the bobbin doesn't break or distort..It is the ability of the bobbin to take a bending moment which is the first cause of failure, and that doesn't change. That is proportional to the length and weight of the door. (and it is lighter now I have cleared the crap out and widened the drain holes!)
The second cause is the ability to stand a torque load if the bolt seizes in the bush (as we both know they do with lack of maintenance). If the bolt seizes that torque is related to the length of the door not the diameter or the bolt. And anyway as the new bolt is stainless and will be well greased the torque will be minimal!
Am I right?
I will admit to one small problem I created myself. When I bought the car it was pretty well derelict and the door was very stiff. Despite my best efforts to free it the top bobbin was loose and turned in the bodywork. I made a new bobbin, in stainless, with a little serrated plate to help secure it, and with the aid of a little 'keyhole surgery' from above I glassed it in very firmly. Drilling and tapping 10mm into stainless is a VERY different proposition to doing so in brass!! What a bugger!
greymrj said:
Drilling and tapping 10mm into stainless is a VERY different proposition to doing so in brass!! What a bugger!
Either redo the keyhole surgery and replace with brass,Or drill ø9 to help the tap through without tearing the bush from the grp.
Like you said, there’s no big torque load so a shallow thread should be sufficient.
magpies said:
You being in Lancashire we gather that the fleece is still on the sheep 
It'll be much warmer that way
That is Wales, not Lancashire Mick, we are civilized up here (well a bit anyway). Only managed 1 1/2 hrs in the tent today, even with the (man made) sheep jacket on the poor old pinkies got too cold to do a good enough job. Long time since I can remember the soldering iron not being able to get warm enough! Getting behind on schedule now, damn.It'll be much warmer that way
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