Broken easyout

[tutties]

My son has snapped an easyout in the cylinder head of his integra when trying to remove a broken temperature sender. We’ve tried all of our various drills but none of them will look at it. Do we need to get cobalt or tungsten carbide drills before it will make any impression ?

[CharlesW]

Have a look at this. It may help.

http://www.gis.net/~manjo/removing_broken_studs_bo...

Here's someone with the same problem.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/broken-easy-out-no...

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195...

[RDM]

I've never liked easi-outs, they appear to do more damage than good and never really work that well. (When I
use them!)

The main thing I find you need is time. Before the
big guns come out as per the usual advice, drills,
heat, hammers etc. Just take some time, lubrication
and more time.

[wight jr]

I have never liked using easy outs, there tapered shape makes them tighten up the bolt to the threaded hole if its small bolts or studs. What i do if there is any part of the stud pocking out or level is to bore a hole in a bit of flat bar and weld threw it onto the top of the broken stud then turn the flat bar, you could do the same to get out the easy out. The other thing is to batter it with a punch and hammer, the shock going threw it is often all thats needed, i do this with any bolt/ stud that i think is going to snap or round off and most of the time works ok, just a few taps with the hammer.

Edited by wight jr on Saturday 5th January 20:35

[thinfourth2]

Where are you based?

I know a few wizards around the country that might be able to help

[CO2000]

wight jr said:

I have never liked using easy outs, there tapered shape makes them tighten up the bolt to the threaded hole if its small bolts or studs. What i do if there is any part of the stud pocking out or level is to bore a hole in a bit of flat bar and weld threw it onto the top of the broken stud then turn the flat bar, you could do the same to get out the easy out. The other thing is to batter it with a punch and hammer, the shock going threw it is often all thats needed, i do this with any bolt/ stud that i think is going to snap or round off and most of the time works ok, just a few taps with the hammer.

Edited by wight jr on Saturday 5th January 20:35

As above but weld a nut (sized to suit the broken part) on & turn it out using a socket/ratchet.

Co.

[wight jr]

Welding a nut on works well, but can be a little bit tricky to get the weld down onto the stud, when i`v had to use a nut, i bore out most of it first.

[tutties]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I did think of welding a bolt on so tried it on the broken easyout first that wasn't attached to the engine. I used mig with a flux cored wire but the weld didn't take properly to the easyout and i couldnt see how it would work with such a restricted access with the piece still in the head. I hadn't thought of using flat bar with a hole drilled and then welding through the hole..... I think I'll go give that a try next. I think my son originally chose too big an easyout, the part he was trying to remove was already hollow and made of brass (i think,temp sender) and the easyout just pushed through the brass and everything locked up. To answer thinfourth2 we are in Arbroath.
Thanks again for all the replies..... I guess I'm in the garage again today ......

[Reidy10_0]

Easy outs are pretty hard so it will not weld very well to mild steel.
A hard weld would be needed for a good join. (a bit specialised)

If you can make any sort of mark in it with a centre punch try hitting the easy out side on in a revolving fashion. Obviously in the correct direction to loosen it.

Have you removed the head from the car?

If it is removed and you know an engineering shop with a spark erosion machine they would spark it out for you or spark a hex in to the easy out to suit an alan key.



Not such an easy out after all!

Edited by Reidy10_0 on Monday 7th January 23:13

[thinfourth2]

Is the block still water tight?

Maybe you might be ultra lucky and if you get the block hot you might find the not s easy out is a little bit loose

[CO2000]

Reidy10_0 said:

Easy outs are pretty hard so it will not weld very well to mild steel.
A hard weld would be needed for a good join. (a bit specialised)

If you can make any sort of mark in it with a centre punch try hitting the easy out side on in a revolving fashion. Obviously in the correct direction to loosen it.

Have you removed the head from the car?

If it is removed and you know an engineering shop with a spark erosion machine they would spark it out for you or spark a hex in to the easy out to suit an alan key.



Not such an easy out after all!

Edited by Reidy10_0 on Monday 7th January 23:13

I got the Welder at my work to do it & he used a small rod (light blue in colour but too long ago to remember the type) normally worked though.

Edited by CO2000 on Tuesday 8th January 10:06

[Reidy10_0]

You can get carbide drills which will drill a hole in the easy out.
A masonery drill can also be used at a push.

Both drills would need to be used in a pedistal drill or vertical mill to work correctly.

This would not be a option for a pistol drill.

I like the sound of heating up the block for starters and having another go at it.

[Chainguy]

Munro is right about it being in a pedestal drill to give you the accuracy needed to start the repair.

Trying to do it with a hand drill is nigh on impossible, and only likely to make it worst.

Your only option is to put a lot of locallised heat in the area, and if you have enough of the easy out showing, wind it off from there with a set of Stillson's (one of the greatest tools in anybody's Snap On box!). If not, it's a head off job. Which may be easier than faffing around and possibly damaging something else. Okay, it's an afternoon of your life spent, but there it is.

Chainguy. Ex mechanic. Who, back in the day in the garage, had sadly done more of these kind of repair jobs for Joe Punter than he would like to count.

[Reidy10_0]

Did you get it out?