Discussion
Have a look at this little lot then, see what you think...
www.pixeltechnology.co.uk/wedge/test.html
Mike
www.pixeltechnology.co.uk/wedge/test.html
Mike
Blimey. What is the distance from the front of the tyre to the wheel arch (horizontally) and the rear of the tyre to the rear of the wheel arch?
If you repeat that for all 4 wheels are they all in the middle of the wheel arches? It looks like you need to move the body forward about 20mm!!!
Fitting 205/55/15s may avoid this. That's not normal for a wedge.
BTW that colour looks just like mine.
If you repeat that for all 4 wheels are they all in the middle of the wheel arches? It looks like you need to move the body forward about 20mm!!!
Fitting 205/55/15s may avoid this. That's not normal for a wedge.
BTW that colour looks just like mine.
Mad 'isn't it?!.
I am going to try the 55's and see how I get on.
When the wheels are straight there seems loads of room, when you try and turn in left the gap comes down to about 2-3mm!.
And as you can see under load it has been rubbing.
The other side looks ok.
I have checked all the springs, suspension bits and everything looks ok.
I need to create some room and I am going to try the 55's.
Mike
I am going to try the 55's and see how I get on.
When the wheels are straight there seems loads of room, when you try and turn in left the gap comes down to about 2-3mm!.
And as you can see under load it has been rubbing.
The other side looks ok.
I have checked all the springs, suspension bits and everything looks ok.
I need to create some room and I am going to try the 55's.
Mike
mikeb said:Mike - that doesn't load - Streaky
Have a look at this little lot then, see what you think...
www.pixeltechnology.co.uk/wedge/test.html
Mike
Seems obvious but looks like your tie bars are wound up too far pulling the bottom wishbone and wheel forward also magnifying the castor angle when you turn.
Check under the car - looking across the car the wishbones should look parrellel to the main cross member NOT angled forward.
I have seen a couple of wedges with the tie bars nuts wound as far down the thread as possible - nearer to half way is correct.
Check under the car - looking across the car the wishbones should look parrellel to the main cross member NOT angled forward.
I have seen a couple of wedges with the tie bars nuts wound as far down the thread as possible - nearer to half way is correct.
DJC1001 said:
Seems obvious but looks like your tie bars are wound up too far pulling the bottom wishbone and wheel forward also magnifying the castor angle when you turn.
Check under the car - looking across the car the wishbones should look parrellel to the main cross member NOT angled forward.
I have seen a couple of wedges with the tie bars nuts wound as far down the thread as possible - nearer to half way is correct.
Good thought David, well worth checking.
Well the mystery gets more curious!......
Had the front suspension in bits again today.
Totally replaced the bushes on the front with poly versions had a good look and a poke at all the angles and geometry all looked as it should. But the drivers side wheel still is very near to the front wheel arch and almost rubs (still).
Although by fitting new poly bushes to the leading links and uplinks etc it did create more clearance on the drivers side wheel but nowhere as much as the other side.
I even measured the hub centres on the front and back wheels on the same side with the steering straight, and the two sides of the car measured exactly the same - which would indicate that the leading link setting is correct.
I also measured the amount of thread left on the leading link on both sides and it was identical.
The body is straight to the chassis and the amount of rubber blocks under each side against the chassis measures the same thickness.
The ground clearance to the top of each wheel arch is 25 inches on the fronts (26 inches on the back) with 26 psi on my 205/60/15's.
Finally, I measured the width of the actual GRP wheel arch and the drivers side is about 1 inch smaller than the passenger side!. There is no signs of damage repair, could the TVR mould be different?!.
Measure your wheel arch straight across from where the front splitter joins to where the sill starts on the other side, do your measurements come to the same for both sides?????.
I am going to switch the front tyres to 205/55/15's to gain the extra 10mm clearance and then everything should be ok, still bl**dy odd though.
Mike
Had the front suspension in bits again today.
Totally replaced the bushes on the front with poly versions had a good look and a poke at all the angles and geometry all looked as it should. But the drivers side wheel still is very near to the front wheel arch and almost rubs (still).
Although by fitting new poly bushes to the leading links and uplinks etc it did create more clearance on the drivers side wheel but nowhere as much as the other side.
I even measured the hub centres on the front and back wheels on the same side with the steering straight, and the two sides of the car measured exactly the same - which would indicate that the leading link setting is correct.
I also measured the amount of thread left on the leading link on both sides and it was identical.
The body is straight to the chassis and the amount of rubber blocks under each side against the chassis measures the same thickness.
The ground clearance to the top of each wheel arch is 25 inches on the fronts (26 inches on the back) with 26 psi on my 205/60/15's.
Finally, I measured the width of the actual GRP wheel arch and the drivers side is about 1 inch smaller than the passenger side!. There is no signs of damage repair, could the TVR mould be different?!.
Measure your wheel arch straight across from where the front splitter joins to where the sill starts on the other side, do your measurements come to the same for both sides?????.
I am going to switch the front tyres to 205/55/15's to gain the extra 10mm clearance and then everything should be ok, still bl**dy odd though.
Mike
mikeb said:
The drivers side front wheel is very close to the lower front splitter/front wheel arch on a right hand lock, the other side has a little more clearance but not much.
I definately rubs under driving and any sort of 'load'.
Mike,
I'm running 205/60 R15 and had no problems until recently. I had the alignment of the car setup, and the left front wheel is now occasionally rubbing against the back of the wheel arch! So, my problem is exactly the opposite. Had the car aligned before and never had this problem!
What I think, is that with the setup and especially the tie rods (it is the function of the tie rod adjustment) towards the front, the 'problem' can be corrected.
Hopefully the explanation is clear....
Perhaps try this first, before changing tyres, etc.
Rob (350i, 1987)
Well, took the 350 for a four wheel alignment and the castor angle was out especially since re-busing and fitting new springs.
I did notice before that the car has also started to pull to one side slightly as well.
All corrected now though and the car now drives straight, the steering wheel is now straight and the front driver's side wheel has been pulled back giving extra clearance.
I may still drop the tyre size though, will have to work on burning out the tyres!
See you all at Coombe on Sunday.
MikeB
I did notice before that the car has also started to pull to one side slightly as well.
All corrected now though and the car now drives straight, the steering wheel is now straight and the front driver's side wheel has been pulled back giving extra clearance.
I may still drop the tyre size though, will have to work on burning out the tyres!
See you all at Coombe on Sunday.
MikeB
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