Alloy rads or not.
Discussion
Ah, good point,
What I meant to say was that most electric fans I've seen on cars are of two types. One has a big shroud, and the other is composed of a metal cylinder, in which is mounted a motor and a fan blade. The cylinder usually has some kind of rubber seal on it so the cylinder to matrix is sealed with no air gap. I just re-read my message and it is confusing.
What I meant to say was try to seal the gap between the fan case and the radiator, so that all the air the fan moves actually goes through the radiator.
Interesting point about the stagnation effects of the blade, I'd never thought of that before - there's probably an optimum distance too based on air temperature and fan speed.
More Tid-bits please GreenV8s!
What I meant to say was that most electric fans I've seen on cars are of two types. One has a big shroud, and the other is composed of a metal cylinder, in which is mounted a motor and a fan blade. The cylinder usually has some kind of rubber seal on it so the cylinder to matrix is sealed with no air gap. I just re-read my message and it is confusing.
What I meant to say was try to seal the gap between the fan case and the radiator, so that all the air the fan moves actually goes through the radiator.
Interesting point about the stagnation effects of the blade, I'd never thought of that before - there's probably an optimum distance too based on air temperature and fan speed.
More Tid-bits please GreenV8s!
You're right about the two shroud types. If you have a small shroud roughly the same size as the fan disc, you need to ensure the gap round the edge isn't too big otherwise the fan sucks in air round the edge rather than pulling air through the matrix. Not too much of a problem as long as you keep the gap to half an inch or so. The other type of shroud is far better, this provides a shallow 'air box' covering the entire face of the matrix with the fan pulling from a circular hole. This only has to be an inch thick to be effective, and allows the fan to pull air through the whole matrix rather than just the small circle covered by the fan blades. At first glance this looks like it might restrict ram air flow but in practice this effect is negligeable, but this arrangement dramatically improves the cooling when the fans are on because the air speed through the matrix is lower and more of the matrix is being cooled.
Reading with interest. The fans butt up to the rad with a sort of cowl if thats the best way to explain it. It doesn't actually touch the rad, have to check the gap and seal it?
Think I have a few things to try here. Better sealing of the fan and making sure the distance with the blades. A new cowl, as the old one is no longer viable. Knock it up out of alloy but use it to keep the fans close. More to this than meets the eye.
Cheers.
Edited to add
On a 3 week stint with work so try when I can. Thinking of door draught proofer for the fan.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Saturday 29th May 22:33
Think I have a few things to try here. Better sealing of the fan and making sure the distance with the blades. A new cowl, as the old one is no longer viable. Knock it up out of alloy but use it to keep the fans close. More to this than meets the eye.
Cheers.
Edited to add
On a 3 week stint with work so try when I can. Thinking of door draught proofer for the fan.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Saturday 29th May 22:33
Scratching of head big time. Its now creeping up to very hot on a normal M way drive. Checked the tanks and they appear to be an even temp for a hand temp feel. Difference between top and bottom and the fans cowling butts up nice and tight to the rad fins. Also I can touch them without screaming in pain. They are hot though. So sender?
40 ohms between the temp sender and the block. Is there a way to check the sender? I think its playing up.
Or the water pump? Though I would have thought that would allow the engine to get hot quicker?
PS its just been serviced but the engine wasn't touched, no problem as such with it before apart from the creeping temp on tickover.
Going outside now to hit something very very very very hard.
40 ohms between the temp sender and the block. Is there a way to check the sender? I think its playing up.
Or the water pump? Though I would have thought that would allow the engine to get hot quicker?
PS its just been serviced but the engine wasn't touched, no problem as such with it before apart from the creeping temp on tickover.
Going outside now to hit something very very very very hard.
jmorgan said:
Right, rad out then and check it. A few bolts and drop out the bottom?
Hmmm, yes I think that it's either that or an air lock. Better to be sure that it's not an air lock before you take the rad out. Failed water pumps usually leak so that doesn't sound to be on the cards.
jmorgan said:
Looking for an air lock earlier. No indication of one. No loss of water either. Will still get the temp thingy though.
Sounds like a bit of a tricky one to pin down. Temp thingy sounds interesting. Do you top up the swan neck when the engine is cold but running ie you've usually got about 5 to 10 seconds first thing in the morning by switching on with the swan neck cap off - be quick!
Not tried that. I always check the level in the swan neck. Usually there is an air gap. This is removed when I take off the main rad cap. But its always done that nad ran fine (apart from the creeping temp on tickeover). Must get some plumbing as well to fit into the heater hoses to bleed there.
What a flippin evening. Right, still not right. Weeping swan neck cap. Bit of blue hylomer for the mo, local factors shrugged shoulders.
Undid rad (to shine a light around etc not to take out) and had a waft around, no apparent leaks. Opps, otter switch a bit loose with water stains down the tank. Ok, out with otter and reach for the sealant. Pop in back in and in it goes. All the way. All the way to the fecking bottom of the tank
So out with the rad to shake it about to get the switch and the seal. May as well get it checked tomorrow as its out.
Going outside for a while to howl at the moon....
>> Edited by jmorgan on Monday 14th June 22:25
Undid rad (to shine a light around etc not to take out) and had a waft around, no apparent leaks. Opps, otter switch a bit loose with water stains down the tank. Ok, out with otter and reach for the sealant. Pop in back in and in it goes. All the way. All the way to the fecking bottom of the tank
So out with the rad to shake it about to get the switch and the seal. May as well get it checked tomorrow as its out. Going outside for a while to howl at the moon....
>> Edited by jmorgan on Monday 14th June 22:25
19560 said:
Whilst you're at it weld the rad up and install a threaded Griff thermo in the swan neck. Sorry about your plight but you do write an amusing story.
Something I have seen on other threads and intend to do but the present position is around 14-18 inches from the swan neck cap. After a drive and the temp rose again I stuck a thermometer, for wine making (although whine making came into the equation tonight), against the top hose and got around 46 deg C whilst gauge was showing 80 odd (it was higher). Popped it in the kettle boiling and 100 deg C on the scale. So its accurate ish at a 100 deg C so assume its a reasonable guess at lower temps. Havn't got around to the maplins thingy yet.
When the otter popped down the hole like a ferret up wurzels trouser leg, all be it the other way, one of them quiet moments before the storm came over me. Del boy and Rodney came to mind. Then a tirade of expletives involving what a plonker!
Don't mind me, talking to myself again
Rad tested OK. Otter seal (joke in there somewhere) bad, new one provided FOC, Thanks Sercs in Cardiff.
All water returned to system from my cleaned bucket. All water nice and blue and no muck.
Serc mentioned that the rad is not in A1 condition, though not in a bad way either. Keep an eye on it etc but they reconed they could do one that will cool a bit better. Off to Nuneaton for a service shortly so ask Dave for an opinion.
Edited to add
Had the service today and the dizzy was nadgered. On the run back from Nuneaton it ran a lot cooler. Seems the weights were so slack it was too far advanced all the while.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Thursday 17th June 20:34
Rad tested OK. Otter seal (joke in there somewhere) bad, new one provided FOC, Thanks Sercs in Cardiff.
All water returned to system from my cleaned bucket. All water nice and blue and no muck.
Serc mentioned that the rad is not in A1 condition, though not in a bad way either. Keep an eye on it etc but they reconed they could do one that will cool a bit better. Off to Nuneaton for a service shortly so ask Dave for an opinion.
Edited to add
Had the service today and the dizzy was nadgered. On the run back from Nuneaton it ran a lot cooler. Seems the weights were so slack it was too far advanced all the while.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Thursday 17th June 20:34
Mindless ditherings again.
Dizzy shot. New one supplied and fitted. Swan neck cap weeping. Cured. Otter switch leaking. Sort of cured. General cooling problems solved, to an extent.
Rad is going to be done to cure the creeping temp but at the same time I want solder the rad otter up and get a swan neck one. Now then, swan neck pipe off the shelf with an otter switch jobbie? Anyone doing it?
Dizzy shot. New one supplied and fitted. Swan neck cap weeping. Cured. Otter switch leaking. Sort of cured. General cooling problems solved, to an extent.
Rad is going to be done to cure the creeping temp but at the same time I want solder the rad otter up and get a swan neck one. Now then, swan neck pipe off the shelf with an otter switch jobbie? Anyone doing it?
jmorgan said:
Mindless ditherings again.
Dizzy shot. New one supplied and fitted. Swan neck cap weeping. Cured. Otter switch leaking. Sort of cured. General cooling problems solved, to an extent.
Rad is going to be done to cure the creeping temp but at the same time I want solder the rad otter up and get a swan neck one. Now then, swan neck pipe off the shelf with an otter switch jobbie? Anyone doing it?
Tim is gonna be doing the shiny stainless pipes (half price one for me cos i supplied the drawing
) Would have thought he could get that done for you.
Good selling point actually
>> Edited by dickymint on Saturday 19th June 02:35
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