Discussion
Anyone know what the rear hub nut is off on the 400se. I have replaced the bearing but the nut doesn't feel or look too clever. It is very tight trying to wind it on from the very start.
Just in case I nob things up totally, what would the drive shaft to 1st UJ be off? I know the hub is granada bearing size but the shaft is off a ????
Just in case I nob things up totally, what would the drive shaft to 1st UJ be off? I know the hub is granada bearing size but the shaft is off a ????
will get onto them tomorrow.Tony
TVR Car parts are no longer trading, due to the owner Richard being seriously ill in Hospital, and I wish him and his family all the best!
TVR Car parts have been a supporter of wedges and BBWF and were going to do it again this year but they now no longer can! They will be missed in more ways than one!
Andy
TVR Car parts are no longer trading, due to the owner Richard being seriously ill in Hospital, and I wish him and his family all the best!
TVR Car parts have been a supporter of wedges and BBWF and were going to do it again this year but they now no longer can! They will be missed in more ways than one!
Andy
Edited by Mr Tank on Wednesday 7th March 23:01
Cheers MrT, I had forgotten you had said that the other day. Will try my local ford shop in the morning. With a lot of searching around they seem to be coming up as M22x1.5 fine metric, which are easily obtainable.
ETA supposed to have said M22x1.5 not 1.25, fixed now.
ETA supposed to have said M22x1.5 not 1.25, fixed now.
Edited by TOPTON on Thursday 8th March 00:05
After delving further into the depth of nuts, I am now getting 2 sizes mentioned, 1.5 and 1.25 fine pitch. So it seems my first typo may be correct but not 100% sure yet.
1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...
1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?
The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.
I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.
barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.
1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...
1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?
The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.
I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.
barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.
TOPTON said:
After delving further into the depth of nuts, I am now getting 2 sizes mentioned, 1.5 and 1.25 fine pitch. So it seems my first typo may be correct but not 100% sure yet.
1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...
1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?
The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.
I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.
barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.
It's very rare to have a Left handed threaded one 99% of wedges will have a right handed one on each side, also there are metric, but I can't remember if it's 1.25 or 1.5 may have posted on one of my other threads.1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...
1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?
The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.
I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.
barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.
I think I also have a spare one somwhere. also it's worth doing a DIY castleation I did mine with a drill and angle grinder. as they can come loose even if done to the correct torque.
Also it's worth looking at the washer, as they can become overly crushed.
They are usually both RH and www.rtracing.co.uk stock them.
Make sure you torque them correctly, many Wedges have lost rear wheels / hubs usually shortly after replacing the rear nut.
Make sure you torque them correctly, many Wedges have lost rear wheels / hubs usually shortly after replacing the rear nut.
Here's my thoughts. 
As the bearing is roller as apposed to taper it cannot be over tightened. The nut/washer touches the inner race which in turn touches the stub axle, so no extra pressure is on the balls and it's metal to metal contact. So once contact is made, eg 60ftlb any more pressure is not tightening the bearing fitment but is potentially stretching the threads on the nut or stuby shaft.
So why so efin tight!!!!!!!
The use of a new nyloc nut would be recomended once they are taken off, to make sure it holds again, but still, 230ftlb is way beyond tight.
Split pin/castleated nut would be a much better option as mention by some, but still just as tight---WHY????
I have changed many bearings in the past on lots of different cars with a similar setup and never had anything as tight as these before. 100ftlb is tight, even 150ftlb is super tight in any situation.
Wheel nuts are just as important and they are nowhere near as tight
I am going to tighten mine to recomended torque, with a split pin also, but that doesn't stop me wondering
As the bearing is roller as apposed to taper it cannot be over tightened. The nut/washer touches the inner race which in turn touches the stub axle, so no extra pressure is on the balls and it's metal to metal contact. So once contact is made, eg 60ftlb any more pressure is not tightening the bearing fitment but is potentially stretching the threads on the nut or stuby shaft.
So why so efin tight!!!!!!!
The use of a new nyloc nut would be recomended once they are taken off, to make sure it holds again, but still, 230ftlb is way beyond tight.
Split pin/castleated nut would be a much better option as mention by some, but still just as tight---WHY????
I have changed many bearings in the past on lots of different cars with a similar setup and never had anything as tight as these before. 100ftlb is tight, even 150ftlb is super tight in any situation.
Wheel nuts are just as important and they are nowhere near as tight
I am going to tighten mine to recomended torque, with a split pin also, but that doesn't stop me wondering
Edited by TOPTON on Friday 9th March 12:03
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