Jacking advice

Jacking advice

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Discussion

Yatesy2012

Original Poster:

975 posts

136 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
quotequote all
Sorry if this seems a daft question but it's better to ask than break something expensive.

I want to get the carin the air as best as I can at home. All I have is the normal axle stands and ramps. As the car is so low, I can't drive it up said ramps. So need to get the front jacked up high enough to shove the ramps under the wheels.

Where I'd the safest point for the trolly jack?

Thanks in advance for the advice. KY.

Danny Hoffman

1,617 posts

262 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
quotequote all
I always jack under the front cross member and the rear member under the diff, then slide in wheel ramps.

I've got 2 sets so can get the car level, handy for checking the gearbox and diff oil.




mrzigazaga

18,553 posts

165 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
quotequote all
Hi Mate..Here is a drawing that show's the jacking points..The axle stands would go on the point's where the tubes join, As the front jacking point arrow indicates on the drawing..Cheers..Ziga

Act Daft

191 posts

156 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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Ive got some of these ramp extensions so I can drive straight up about £15



Edited by Act Daft on Wednesday 2nd January 14:14

ElvisWedgely

2,714 posts

165 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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When you jack the front up with the wheels still on, the front wheels will drop further down because of the suspension and you still won't be able to get the the raps under the wheels. Your best bet is to either buy ramp extensions which I believe is available on ebay or jack the car up and use axle stands to support the chassis. I hope that helps.

Tony. TCB.

Wedg1e

26,800 posts

265 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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If you jack under the front cross-member, use a spreader block or plate as it's common for the jack to buckle the bottom of the member, which fabricated from a length of channel and a closing plate.

To jack the rear I use the diff rear support beam, with a block of wood inserted.

marcus1875

1,512 posts

142 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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i'm with danny on this one. mine is too low to get a jack under the recommended points so i use the front xmember and then two stands under the recommended jack points.
just spent all morning under it this way and it hasnt fallen on me...phew!

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
quotequote all
My top tip is to put some old MDF or chipboard on the garage floor where the wheels go (make sure no nails or screws in it!) and drive onto that, the extra 10mm makes it easy to get the trolley jack under.

I jack the front where the 5 tubes meet, and at the back under the U-channel under the diff, except when working for extended periods when I back it onto ramps.

Don't forget the axle stands as a backup - my jack has never failed even when leaving it overnight but there's always a first time - the chassis is low so will certainly squash you!

The Hatter

988 posts

170 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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My car's too low and long at the front to get my jack to the crossmember without either using Adam's sheet of wood trick or using a small jack under the side rail to raise the car a couple of inches first.

I'd echo Wedg1e's point about a block of wood under the crossmember but make sure it's not too smooth and position it on the back edge of the crossmember so that the edge of it bites into the wood as the car goes up - I've had the car slip backwards as the block of wood slides on the inevitably oily crossmember.

Yatesy2012

Original Poster:

975 posts

136 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
quotequote all
Thanks Guys

I've managed to get it in the air with the aid of a wooden block under the cross member. Had to have two bites at it with some blocks under the tyres. All in all a right pain! New ramp extensions coming my way.

Best news of all cant see any rot other than some surface rust on the front suspension components.

Just need to get these light pods sorted now. Anyone near Cannock who's got a working one I can have a look at?

Cheers Karl

Jon280

195 posts

137 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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Marvellous timing people, just came on here to ask pretty much the same, only to see someone has beaten me to it!

Have acquired myself a trolley jack and 4 axle stands ove Christmas, so now planning on lifting the car to take a look underneath and to do all the stuff like an oil change and hopefully sort out a leaky coolant system. Hoping to find little or no rust once I get under there. Also want to get all the wheels off with a view to tidying them up a bit.

As I am planning on lifting front and back, is there one that's best to do first, or does it make no real difference?

Cheers and happy new year to everyone

ElvisWedgely

2,714 posts

165 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
quotequote all
I don't know if it's better to jack up the front or the back when you are lifting all four wheels, or that it should matter, but what I do know is that looking for serious rust on these cars is not always immediately apparent, unless you know where to look. Sometimes the chassis and outriggers seem fine, especially if previously coated in the black stuff. Look above the metal plate where the outriggers meet in each corner and the condition of the tubes up behind. That is where the holes can be found. You'll need a good torch to see these. The rears of the outriggers carry the the seatbelt mounts, examine these well for signs of rust and holes. The central tubes are usually better exposed and survive well but should also be examined thoroughly. After all, the chassis is literately the back bone of the whole car.

Tony. TCB.

mrzigazaga

18,553 posts

165 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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Jon280 said:
As I am planning on lifting front and back, is there one that's best to do first, or does it make no real difference?
Hi mate..Happy new year to you too..I dont think it matters which end you jack up first but just choc the wheels on the opposite end to what you are jacking..i:e Front..Then choc the rear wheels..A couple of house bricks will do..Just remember if you jack the rear without chocking the front wheels then it will probably roll..Especially on an incline...Ziga

ferlin

357 posts

239 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
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thats neat, I havent seen these extensions before and they are easy to make. I have had to use lengths of wood before as run ups to clear my front spoiler and get my car on similar ramps.

Act Daft said:
Ive got some of these ramp extensions so I can drive straight up about £15



Edited by Act Daft on Wednesday 2nd January 14:14[/footnote]
[footnote]Edited by ferlin on Wednesday 2nd January 19:25

Act Daft

191 posts

156 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2013
quotequote all
ferlin said:
thats neat, I havent seen these extensions and I have had to use lengths of wood before as run ups to clear my front spoiler and get my car on similar ramps.

Act Daft said:
Ive got some of these ramp extensions so I can drive straight up about £15



Edited by Act Daft on Wednesday 2nd January 14:14
machinemart.co.uk £14.39

Edited by Act Daft on Wednesday 2nd January 19:29

Aeroflop

144 posts

159 months

Thursday 3rd January 2013
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mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate..Happy new year to you too..I dont think it matters which end you jack up first but just choc the wheels on the opposite end to what you are jacking..
Addition to this, don't jack too much at once. When lifting one end of the car, the distance of jacking points (measured from the floor) decreases. Then when you lift the other end, the axle stand(s) on first end might turn at an angle, ending up unstable. This is greater problem when lifting one side at the time (ie. first left, then right or vice versa) instead of one end at the time, but I've seen the effect also when lifting one end at the time.

And as said earlier, but never repeated too much never, EVER, go under the car if it's not supported by at least axle stand(s). Never EVER trust the jack, even the pro ones with the experience that it hasn't failed even once. Also make sure that the axle stands are stable and in good condition and then have some good time working with the car smile.

Jon280 said:
Have acquired myself a trolley jack and 4 axle stands ove Christmas, so now planning on lifting the car to take a look underneath and to do all the stuff like an oil change
My wedge ('86 350i) doesn't need to get lifted for oil change, even though afaik it has been lowered some bit. The oil drain is very practically placed on the left side of the oil pan, so just throw a low bucket under the car, open the drain with a long tool, wait a bit, close the drain and take the bucket out. Then open the engine cover, change the oil filter (if you're changing it) and pour in the new oils. All done in under 15 minutes without even getting your hands dirty, really easy and fast operation.

al 350i

974 posts

195 months

Thursday 3rd January 2013
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always best to lift car from middle front or rear, if you jack up from sides alternately then you're going to end up with milky cornered windscreen!!!!

TA14

12,722 posts

258 months

Thursday 3rd January 2013
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Jon280 said:
As I am planning on lifting front and back, is there one that's best to do first, or does it make no real difference?
Hi mate..Happy new year to you too..I dont think it matters which end you jack up first
Practically you need to jack up the front first. If you do the rear first the front can be quite aukward to slide the jack in place.

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Thursday 3rd January 2013
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I do the front from the side behind the rear wheels, in which case it's actually slightly easier if the rear is already up on the ramps.

GBinUSA

222 posts

124 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
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Race Ramps look to be a good option.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5RZC0SBbhrI