Discussion
gog440 said:
Is this the voice of experience Ziga? (ie made that screw up in the past?)
Unfortunately mate im affraid so..It's a very long story but i bought mine on the strength that it was a runner..And then the truth came out and after that it was stuck on my mates drive for 5 months as a non-runner..Basically the O/S fuel tank had gone rusty as it sat for 11 year's in a garage and then the guy that i bought it from was driving it about which eventually clogged everything up with rust right up to the injector's..That was probably the most expensive time for me..And the RAC...
..But even short periods of time can be detremental to the MFI fuel system and components..Thats why its always good to look for one that has been looked after and used fairly regular, I use mine as an everyday car..And love every minute of it!...cheers...Zigamrzigazaga said:
gog440 said:
Is this the voice of experience Ziga? (ie made that screw up in the past?)
Unfortunately mate im affraid so..It's a very long story but i bought mine on the strength that it was a runner..And then the truth came out and after that it was stuck on my mates drive for 5 months as a non-runner..Basically the O/S fuel tank had gone rusty as it sat for 11 year's in a garage and then the guy that i bought it from was driving it about which eventually clogged everything up with rust right up to the injector's..That was probably the most expensive time for me..And the RAC.....But even short periods of time can be detremental to the MFI fuel system and components..Thats why its always good to look for one that has been looked after and used fairly regular, I use mine as an everyday car..And love every minute of it!...cheers...ZigaI reckon job 1 will be checking the fuel.
PK500 has had this car running and says it sounds sweet but I know it hasnt been used much since the old lady died.
mrzigazaga said:
1. Engine
2. Drivetrain
3. Chassis
4. Interior
5. Bodywork
That way you will have a runner even if it's a little tatty..You can enjoy it by using it while you are fixing it up..
On another note though..PLEASE do not try starting it until you have changed the bulkhead fuel filter and checked the condition of fuel of what comes out of the metering head side of the old one..(Tip a little into a jar and have a look..lid on and no smoking)..If it's full of nasties then it will contaminate the rest of the system...It can be a bit of a nightmare leading to expensive fixes..But if you can drive it most of the time then cost goes out the window cos you will be smiling too much...cheers...Ziga
Yeah you've got the priority list the exact way we've got it set out!2. Drivetrain
3. Chassis
4. Interior
5. Bodywork
That way you will have a runner even if it's a little tatty..You can enjoy it by using it while you are fixing it up..
On another note though..PLEASE do not try starting it until you have changed the bulkhead fuel filter and checked the condition of fuel of what comes out of the metering head side of the old one..(Tip a little into a jar and have a look..lid on and no smoking)..If it's full of nasties then it will contaminate the rest of the system...It can be a bit of a nightmare leading to expensive fixes..But if you can drive it most of the time then cost goes out the window cos you will be smiling too much...cheers...Ziga
We've only really checked lines and plugs and made sure everything is hooked up the way it should be, changed the oil etc. As per your email still waiting for the fuel filter to arrive (hopefully today/tomorrow
)We're just assuming nothing works and slowly ticking things off the list lol
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Mate..It shouldnt be that far away from the metering head..Mine is here..(Yellow arrow)..Some were mounted in different places..
Aaron..Any sign of the dizzy yet mate?...Cheers...ziga
Thanks Ziga I know what it looks like a and a rough location at least now!Aaron..Any sign of the dizzy yet mate?...Cheers...ziga
you really have spent a lot of time/money on shininess havent you lol
gog440 said:
Thanks Ziga I know what it looks like a and a rough location at least now!
you really have spent a lot of time/money on shininess havent you lol
you really have spent a lot of time/money on shininess havent you lol
..I had to get most part's refurbed so i thought i might as well bling it up a bit..Plus whenever i used to go to classic car show's some of the engine bay's were like jeweller's shop window's...Plus it's easier to spot any leakage...
...Cheers...Zigahttp://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That thread has plenty of advice. I have recently been lifting the front of mine using the trolley jack under the front cross member with the addition of a rubber ice hockey puck to avoid damage then putting axle stands at the point a bit further back on the main chassis rail near where loads of bits all join together. Not lifted the rear myself yet.
That thread has plenty of advice. I have recently been lifting the front of mine using the trolley jack under the front cross member with the addition of a rubber ice hockey puck to avoid damage then putting axle stands at the point a bit further back on the main chassis rail near where loads of bits all join together. Not lifted the rear myself yet.
Jon280 said:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That thread has plenty of advice. I have recently been lifting the front of mine using the trolley jack under the front cross member with the addition of a rubber ice hockey puck to avoid damage then putting axle stands at the point a bit further back on the main chassis rail near where loads of bits all join together. Not lifted the rear myself yet.
Cheers!That thread has plenty of advice. I have recently been lifting the front of mine using the trolley jack under the front cross member with the addition of a rubber ice hockey puck to avoid damage then putting axle stands at the point a bit further back on the main chassis rail near where loads of bits all join together. Not lifted the rear myself yet.
edit: @Ziga I have the distributor now looks awesome, will chuck it in at the weekend and then we'll sort out payment
Edited by MonkeykingZX on Tuesday 14th May 17:45
Right guys after 3 months of not having time for the wedge we finally spent a few hours with it today.
After reading gog440's thread we decided to start with the fuel system.
The pump seems to be dead and all the hoses etc need replacing!
So my question to you fine people is what are the correct diameter hoses and pipes needed to replace the vast majority of the system/can you recommend somewhere or someone that I could order the whole lot from fairly easily that know's their stuff?
We've already ordered a replacement pump so no need to worry about that.
After reading gog440's thread we decided to start with the fuel system.
The pump seems to be dead and all the hoses etc need replacing!
So my question to you fine people is what are the correct diameter hoses and pipes needed to replace the vast majority of the system/can you recommend somewhere or someone that I could order the whole lot from fairly easily that know's their stuff?
We've already ordered a replacement pump so no need to worry about that.
Hi Mate..Good that you are cracking on..Just trying to remember the hoses sizes...Here is a link to a previous post..If you are changing any fuel hoses which are on the metering head banjos then get new soft copper washers..Not sure where to get them but you could try KMI petrol injection..Ask for steve and say mark recommended you..Im sure he will send some FOC..For the larger bore for the filler neck and the 51mm ID tank joiner i would use the company in the post..I will try to get my brain going to see if there are any other sizes you might need...Cheers...Ziga
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Have you found the fusebox under the glovebox?
check the purple relay in there as that controls all the injection system, that will stop the pump etc working.
it is a bit expensive from ford (52+vat from my local dealer) but I found one from a fuel injection specialist for half that. it would be worth just cleaning the contacts etc.
check the purple relay in there as that controls all the injection system, that will stop the pump etc working.
it is a bit expensive from ford (52+vat from my local dealer) but I found one from a fuel injection specialist for half that. it would be worth just cleaning the contacts etc.
Cheers guys,
@Ziga: seems like a good website, thanks for that and it's nice to finally be getting back to work on it even if I did spend most of yesterday covered in rust, gone off petrol and mud from the drive lol!
@Gog440: The purple relay seems fine but whether or not it is is another matter entirely, will give the contacts a clean once we've replaced the vast majority of the fuel system and fit Ziga's distributor that I'm currently holding hostage. Hopefully it'll cough to life after that!
@Wedg1e: hadn't thought of that thanks
@Ziga: seems like a good website, thanks for that and it's nice to finally be getting back to work on it even if I did spend most of yesterday covered in rust, gone off petrol and mud from the drive lol!
@Gog440: The purple relay seems fine but whether or not it is is another matter entirely, will give the contacts a clean once we've replaced the vast majority of the fuel system and fit Ziga's distributor that I'm currently holding hostage. Hopefully it'll cough to life after that!
@Wedg1e: hadn't thought of that thanks
Wedg1e said:
I keep reading that some fuel hoses are not suitable for unleaded and will dissolve... one to check before parting with cash.
What I have learnt recently is that it is the ethanol they are putting in the fuel that causes a lot of the issues,it eats the lines from the inside out,so the first you know is when they split.Be very careful what pipes you put in.
What percent of ethanol are they making you use? The pumps over here say "up to 10%". I have heard that regular is about 10% but apparently the higher the octane, the less ethanol they can add. Don't know what the amount in Super is.
There are lots of stories about what it does to plastic fuel tanks (and fuel line) on boats where the plastic was not rated for it. Since boats tend to sit during the winter months, the ethanol collect moisture and either turns to gel and/or dissolves plastic tank.
It's also a solvent and (in time) will tend to loosen any crude in your tanks. Might want to put a filter before the pump and change it every couple of months for a while.
However, modern fuel lines (particularly those upstream of the the pump) should be rated for ethanol. My 2 cents. Grady
There are lots of stories about what it does to plastic fuel tanks (and fuel line) on boats where the plastic was not rated for it. Since boats tend to sit during the winter months, the ethanol collect moisture and either turns to gel and/or dissolves plastic tank.
It's also a solvent and (in time) will tend to loosen any crude in your tanks. Might want to put a filter before the pump and change it every couple of months for a while.
However, modern fuel lines (particularly those upstream of the the pump) should be rated for ethanol. My 2 cents. Grady
On the "West side of the pond" we can easily get the 5/8" hose (tanks to swirl pot to fuel pump); we ask for Coast Guard Approved for fuel. This is ethanol proof and is easy to work with. I don't know who aproves marine products on the East side of the pond - probably some committee in Belgium!
Wilf.
Wilf.
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