Repairable? Or am I looking for a donor body?
Discussion
Update: Struts installed. You don't want to go any more than 100Nm on the bonnet, they are spot on. I ended up recycling two old ones for the boot, both are a lot less that 100Nm which is fne as the boot lid doesn't weigh much.
In other news, I just bought 7 metres of pinchweld and installed it in 1 run from one door across the windscreen and around the other door. Fitted perfectly first time with some persuasion from a soft mallet and riveted at each end due to the tight corner at the top of each door. The doors now close beautifully and there's no movement at all in the roof panel any more because the rubber holds it snug. Result.
She's almost ready to go off the the mechanic for the bits I can't (due to lack of knowledge, lack of a hoist or both..).
i.e. adjust exhaust system for clearance and tighten up, fill, bleed and test brakes, fit rear mufflers, recommission engine bay wiring plus all lights, and check all other electrics (already reinstalled). Front and rear wheel alignment, fit new battery and battery holder (there has to be a better solution that the old plastic strap..), and anything else that doesn't work when tested.
Then, start up.
Aim is to get her licensed and on the road by Christmas. Can't believe I'm nearly there... Still time for it to go t!ts up though I guess.....
In other news, I just bought 7 metres of pinchweld and installed it in 1 run from one door across the windscreen and around the other door. Fitted perfectly first time with some persuasion from a soft mallet and riveted at each end due to the tight corner at the top of each door. The doors now close beautifully and there's no movement at all in the roof panel any more because the rubber holds it snug. Result.
She's almost ready to go off the the mechanic for the bits I can't (due to lack of knowledge, lack of a hoist or both..).
i.e. adjust exhaust system for clearance and tighten up, fill, bleed and test brakes, fit rear mufflers, recommission engine bay wiring plus all lights, and check all other electrics (already reinstalled). Front and rear wheel alignment, fit new battery and battery holder (there has to be a better solution that the old plastic strap..), and anything else that doesn't work when tested.
Then, start up.
Aim is to get her licensed and on the road by Christmas. Can't believe I'm nearly there... Still time for it to go t!ts up though I guess.....
...but not out of the woods yet. I still need to sort the following:
1. Fuel lines in front wheelarch have no protection. Can I check (again) how this should be addressed please as this one worries me.
2. I binned the insipid old horn unit so I need a nice loud replacement. Shouldn't be a problem.
3. Still need to put on side pods, front spoiler and rear exhaust valance when I get the car back.
4. I ended up putting in a big bearing on the steering shaft on the inside of the footwell similar to what others have done. Not sure if others have had the later setup with the SD1 shaft but mine is TR7. The knuckle joint is only 2-3mm from the body in the footwell, not enough to get a collar to bolt into, despite hours of looking at it. Here's a shot of it before I did what I've done. Which was, to use 10mm bolts from the inside and just use washers and nylocs on the outside (wheelarch). Using any sort of plate fouls the shaft joint. I am hoping there is not enough movement to damage the fibreglass but it's rock solid now. Any thoughts? (sorry no photo).
1. Fuel lines in front wheelarch have no protection. Can I check (again) how this should be addressed please as this one worries me.
2. I binned the insipid old horn unit so I need a nice loud replacement. Shouldn't be a problem.
3. Still need to put on side pods, front spoiler and rear exhaust valance when I get the car back.
4. I ended up putting in a big bearing on the steering shaft on the inside of the footwell similar to what others have done. Not sure if others have had the later setup with the SD1 shaft but mine is TR7. The knuckle joint is only 2-3mm from the body in the footwell, not enough to get a collar to bolt into, despite hours of looking at it. Here's a shot of it before I did what I've done. Which was, to use 10mm bolts from the inside and just use washers and nylocs on the outside (wheelarch). Using any sort of plate fouls the shaft joint. I am hoping there is not enough movement to damage the fibreglass but it's rock solid now. Any thoughts? (sorry no photo).
I hear you Zig, but that's the only position where it fits both ends of the steering shaft. There no adjustment at the steering wheel end because the shaft is spot welded to the bracket that supports it/attaches it to the dash. The Bible shows the bracket as a separate part but mines welded.
The dash never came out of the car during the rebuild so nothing's been moved.
Any thoughts on fuel line protection/routing?
The dash never came out of the car during the rebuild so nothing's been moved.
Any thoughts on fuel line protection/routing?
440Interceptor said:
I hear you Zig, but that's the only position where it fits both ends of the steering shaft. There no adjustment at the steering wheel end because the shaft is spot welded to the bracket that supports it/attaches it to the dash. The Bible shows the bracket as a separate part but mines welded.
The dash never came out of the car during the rebuild so nothing's been moved.
Any thoughts on fuel line protection/routing?
Surely the shaft is telescopic, so unless you're at it max (which I doubt), you should be able to persuade it further into the wheel arch. Just need to be careful not to damage it - I've used a hose clip tightened around the shaft inside the footwell, which gives something to press / tap against. The dash never came out of the car during the rebuild so nothing's been moved.
Any thoughts on fuel line protection/routing?
Number 7, I assumed the shaft length was fixed rather than telescopic. that would help A LOT!. I hope you're right.
Zig, I'm just thinking high pressure rubber fuel hose is vulnerable to a nail being flicked up of the tyre or similar. I have a 1 inch hole in the top of the wheelarch through which the fuel lines pass on their way to/from the fuel injection unit. So the hoses have to come up the back of the wheelarch rather than going inboard to pass through it? Mine 1984, maybe they changed this later on?
Zig, I'm just thinking high pressure rubber fuel hose is vulnerable to a nail being flicked up of the tyre or similar. I have a 1 inch hole in the top of the wheelarch through which the fuel lines pass on their way to/from the fuel injection unit. So the hoses have to come up the back of the wheelarch rather than going inboard to pass through it? Mine 1984, maybe they changed this later on?
440Interceptor said:
Zig, I'm just thinking high pressure rubber fuel hose is vulnerable to a nail being flicked up of the tyre or similar. I have a 1 inch hole in the top of the wheelarch through which the fuel lines pass on their way to/from the fuel injection unit. So the hoses have to come up the back of the wheelarch rather than going inboard to pass through it? Mine 1984, maybe they changed this later on?
I have seen the fuel hose on a 400SE coming up through the wheel arch...Strange how the 350i in-between didn't...In honesty i should imagine that the hose would be hard to penetrate unless sufficient force was used to push something into it...If you are worried then perhaps use some still braiding over that section...Mind you a snake could bite it i guess...
On the SEAC the fuel pipes are metal tubes along the sill; the metal tube is bent up into the front wheelach and protected with rubber hose slit lengthways and clamped over the tube. There's then a cover under which the metal tube is connected to conventional rubber hose; the rubber hose then goes though a hole in the inner wing (protected by some edge protector over the GRP) and up to the engine. The cover piece is just a bit of flat plastic sheet bent over the pipes and held in place with self tappers. The whole affair is very close to the tyre on full lock.
440Interceptor said:
Number 7, I assumed the shaft length was fixed rather than telescopic. that would help A LOT!. I hope you're right.
Zig, I'm just thinking high pressure rubber fuel hose is vulnerable to a nail being flicked up of the tyre or similar. I have a 1 inch hole in the top of the wheelarch through which the fuel lines pass on their way to/from the fuel injection unit. So the hoses have to come up the back of the wheelarch rather than going inboard to pass through it? Mine 1984, maybe they changed this later on?
I fitted a bearing kit to the 390 recently and like yours the UJ joint was very tight against the bulk head. I managed to slacken off and find some movement on the two joints heading to the steering rack and then got the steering column shaft to extend further into the wheel arch which gave about 5mm of clearance. A bit of a fiddle but eventually got it all lined up.Zig, I'm just thinking high pressure rubber fuel hose is vulnerable to a nail being flicked up of the tyre or similar. I have a 1 inch hole in the top of the wheelarch through which the fuel lines pass on their way to/from the fuel injection unit. So the hoses have to come up the back of the wheelarch rather than going inboard to pass through it? Mine 1984, maybe they changed this later on?
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