Repairable? Or am I looking for a donor body?

[mrzigazaga]

JVaughan said:

mrzigazaga said:

Hi mate

Is this any good?

Just removed my side panels ... I cannot believe they are made of flimsy plastic. I think this is next on the list to replace

The early ones were a fibre glass panel of much sturdier design..They must of had a load of the plastic sheet left over that was used for the heater boxes.....

[JVaughan]

Na Mate, looks like an ice-cream tub !!... horrible opaque shiney plastic.

Going to make some, cover with new vinyl & replace both sides

[440Interceptor]

Got both doors back on and adjusted. They line up well on both sides so I guess I won't be changing anything as far as packing is concerned.

As far as the roof panel goes, I have to find 5mm from somewhere.

[Mr Tank]

Hi Toby

It's coming along nicely.
Ref the roof gap, I have seen bigger and off course tighter gaps, in fact you don't want it to tight as that can cause problems. Just try a little less down on the three rear bolts, and see what it looks like, and then tighten it up again if you don't like it.
It's just down to adjustment till you get a happy medium and you are then happy with it.

Andy

[GBinUSA]

I think you've achieved better shut lines than are on my S2 !, good job Toby. I've really enjoyed this thread, and alwayslook forward to updates. Keep'em coming!.

Cheers.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate...Thats a good gap!...

You can add a couple of washers to the roof stays which will give you some minor adjustment.

Ziga

[440Interceptor]

Hi Andy, thanks I'll try that.

Everything is tightened right up and there are no washers behind the roof struts at all currently. Can't recall if an came off when I pulled it apart, but I suspect there might have been some behind the bottom ones. I know The Bible says not to use spacers as they can distort things but I might only need a couple.

If I pull the soft top forward there is enough play/stretch to close the gap using medium force so I'm not too worried. Also I'm thinking a self adhesive foam strip placed along one of the edges (maybe the rear roof edge) would prevent any movement. The lugs are secure and won't let the roof out so that's the main thing. Lastly, one of the four lugs has been broken as long as I can remember so that needs fixing. Just another puzzle to work out.

Thanks Gavin, glad you're enjoying it. Me too thankfully, although I'm getting closer now and I want it on the road! Self imposed deadline is Christmas....

[440Interceptor]

Update: Door hardware back in and now the doors open, shut and lock like they should, Zig those clips you sent me work great. Even though they are slightly too small, I had some washers that are exactly the right size to go over the barbs and lock them in place! you have to have a win sometimes..

Next challenge is the door top weather strips (between door and glass). Mine are very tired, as I guess most are by now. From searching threads it seems these are unobtainium by now, so has anyone come up with an alternative that looks the part and does the job?

Toby

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Toby

Are you talking about the waist seal that runs on top of the door?...
Was yours chrome?

Have a look below to see if any good...

ATJ1937
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

Woolies
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1259-window-weathe...

Or is it a flat, If so you could use some nitrile rubber sheet and cut into the width and length you need....

[lfsv8]

Like all the practical aspects of this thread. Just received a great catalogue from 'SEALS + DIRECT' of New Milton, Hampshire [e: [e-mail]; web: www.sealsdirect.co.uk]. They'll send one upon request (probably globally) complete with small sample pieces as needed. I have no connection with them whatsoever and have not used them before but thought their range could be useful to a current TVR-project. Hopefully either original-compatible, or readily adaptable, covering under 'Automotive seals':-
Jaguar; LR & RR; MG; Mini; Miscellaneous; Morris Minor; Running board treads; Sponge rubber seals; Triumph seals; Windscreen, backlight & quarter light rubbers.
Plus an wider variety of sections: 'Adhesives & sealants', 'Caravan seals and trims', 'Extrusions', 'Hose', 'Neoprene - Expanded', even 'Specials', etc., etc.
Obviously most of us have local suppliers but I'm hoping that there should be a solution/adaptation/improvement available, for as & when we are 'snookered'...

[mrzigazaga]

lfsv8 said:

Like all the practical aspects of this thread. Just received a great catalogue from 'SEALS + DIRECT' of New Milton, Hampshire [e: [e-mail]; web: www.sealsdirect.co.uk]. They'll send one upon request (probably globally) complete with small sample pieces as needed. I have no connection with them whatsoever and have not used them before but thought their range could be useful to a current TVR-project. Hopefully either original-compatible, or readily adaptable, covering under 'Automotive seals':-
Jaguar; LR & RR; MG; Mini; Miscellaneous; Morris Minor; Running board treads; Sponge rubber seals; Triumph seals; Windscreen, backlight & quarter light rubbers.
Plus an wider variety of sections: 'Adhesives & sealants', 'Caravan seals and trims', 'Extrusions', 'Hose', 'Neoprene - Expanded', even 'Specials', etc., etc.
Obviously most of us have local suppliers but I'm hoping that there should be a solution/adaptation/improvement available, for as & when we are 'snookered'...

Hi mate...

I recommend them all the time as i have dealt with them on a number of occasions and have always found them very helpful..

[440Interceptor]

What do you think? The vinyl on my door top trim panels is badly worn on both back corners. I have found a very similar colour beige vinyl and a trimmer who can do the stitching etc so they'll look like new.

Question is, I'm considering deleting the ash trays by glassing over the hole in the panel then recovering it as if they were never there. Not "original" I know but not sure that matters too much in this case. I might even find some light fittings that would be a lot more useful than ash trays.

Supplementary but totally unrelated question... I am struggling to get the glass back into the doors. I didn't take them out, the painters did, hence the problem. Do I need to take the glass out of the U channel in order to get the channel back on to the rollers? Currently they are attached and the mechanism in up position. I can't see any way to get them back together. Sweating bullets while handling that glass too. Drop it and I'm toast. Any guidance from those who have been here would be appreciated.

Toby

[adam quantrill]

Fist put some old carpet and rugs on the garage floor under the door then your sweating will diminish and you'll be able to concentrate.

Leave the glass on the U-channel. I spread apart the runner at the front edge for the leading inch and a half. Then it will go into the "knob" thing easier and the back one will go on easier. You have to put it in on the cock with the leading edge lower down, and the scissors fully up, with the wire stop disconnected.

After you have got it back in run it up and down a few times - you might decide to close up the runner a bit again but I usually find it doesn't get on to the spread bit. Set the wire stop to the desired height.

[mrzigazaga]

440Interceptor said:

I'm considering deleting the ash trays by glassing over the hole in the panel then recovering it as if they were never there. Not "original" I know but not sure that matters too much in this case. I might even find some light fittings that would be a lot more useful than ash trays.

Hi Toby


I filled over Dominic's and i did think of putting a light in there...Could be a good call...

Ziga

[440Interceptor]

Thanks Adam, very clear, I shall give it a go now. I'd love to know how they actually got the windows off. Windows up and no power. I reckon they popped them off with a screwdriver...

Thanks Zig, giving it serious thought. Anyone need some ashtrays??

[v8s4me]

440Interceptor said:

... I'm considering deleting the ash trays...

Or how about tweeters?

[440Interceptor]

.....but....that would mean I would have to buy a new set of speakers, and a new stereo to go with them...excellent idea!

Now then, re the window. After fiddling some more I re-read what you said Adam and thought that if you could bend the channel and then bend it back then why not just do that in the middle where the roller is? So I did. 2 minutes later, job done, channel nice and straight again. For the fiftieth time, thanks guys.

[adam quantrill]

A boj well done!

[440Interceptor]

Only a little boj mind..

Whilst playing with the driver side door I noticed the lower guide for the window mechanism is held in by two bolts. remove this guide and undo the height adjustment cable, and you can manoeuvre the window into the top two guides then refit the bottom guide. No bending of anything required, and it gives you a chance to clean and regrease the lower guide too.

[440Interceptor]

Today's update: The heater leaked and wasn't very useful anyway. Plus I don't smoke so I deleted the lighter and the heater (rerouted the hoses weeks ago) and replaced them with a cup holder for me coffee :-) Kept all the original stuff in case someone thirty years from now wants to put the car back to original. I've still got to finish it off, and I'll upload a pic as soon as the site lets me - something odd going on with the upload function at the moment I think...?

Anyway, I need to put the steering column back in, but unsurprisingly the footwell bush is shot. I don't have the tools or skills to do the very clever Wedgineering mod unfortunately. So I guess I am just ordering a new one from RT or another supplier? Does anyone know of an better solution before I do?

Cheers, Toby