Repairable? Or am I looking for a donor body?
Discussion
440Interceptor said:
Thanks, how did you get the extra 5mm Keith? Is the column telescopic or not, I guess that's what it boils down to. The car is on a hoist at the mechanics now, so I don't want to ask him to start bashing away unless I know for sure.
On both of mine the steering columns are adjustable for height and reach. There is an inner and outer shaft with the clamp sandwiching the two when all pulled up. I loosened the adjuster and got a set of mole grips on the end of the shaft that poked through the bulkhead and managed to pull the shaft through another 1/2". I'm not sure if the series 1's had adjustable columns or not??
Latest update. I gave the car to my mechanic to check my work and get the car ready for licensing. I said they should do it when they had spare time and they're taking me at my word! Fair enough I guess but I'm getting impatient now. They have made some progress though.
They started the car the other day but we have a fueling problem to solve. The car starts and idles okay from cold, plus it reacts to the throttle as it should, BUT when you release the throttle the engine just dies. It's then very hard to start again unless you wait 10-15 mins. Exhaust smells very rich, so it seems to be over-fuelling.
This is the KJet system on my 280. New accumulator, fuel pump and lines to/from engine bay. New swirl pot too.
Any ideas where to start looking?
Thanks in advance!
They started the car the other day but we have a fueling problem to solve. The car starts and idles okay from cold, plus it reacts to the throttle as it should, BUT when you release the throttle the engine just dies. It's then very hard to start again unless you wait 10-15 mins. Exhaust smells very rich, so it seems to be over-fuelling.
This is the KJet system on my 280. New accumulator, fuel pump and lines to/from engine bay. New swirl pot too.
Any ideas where to start looking?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Toby.
Have you refurbed the metering head?...If so was it reset to factory spec by whomever?...
You could back off the hex screw on the flap but do this in very small increments..Try it 1/4" anti-clockwise and test and then put it back and try clockwise...DO NOT forget where you are with this though...Its best done when idling and the adjustment should be so that when the throttle is blipped then a smooth idle should return almost instantly...
Check the AAD is not stuck open..
This may help....
http://www.auto-tat.co.uk/Bosch%20K-Jetronic.htm
Have you refurbed the metering head?...If so was it reset to factory spec by whomever?...
You could back off the hex screw on the flap but do this in very small increments..Try it 1/4" anti-clockwise and test and then put it back and try clockwise...DO NOT forget where you are with this though...Its best done when idling and the adjustment should be so that when the throttle is blipped then a smooth idle should return almost instantly...
Check the AAD is not stuck open..
This may help....
http://www.auto-tat.co.uk/Bosch%20K-Jetronic.htm
Thanks Zig, that guide could be useful, someone has put a lot of time into it...
All I did to the metering head was change the copper washers, new air hose, new air filter and airbox as mine was cracked.
Haven't touched the adjustment screw. Likewise the other peripherals, I've left them alone as much as possible as all was working fine pre the lay up of the car for 7 years.
All I did to the metering head was change the copper washers, new air hose, new air filter and airbox as mine was cracked.
Haven't touched the adjustment screw. Likewise the other peripherals, I've left them alone as much as possible as all was working fine pre the lay up of the car for 7 years.
Edited by 440Interceptor on Monday 26th December 01:14
mmmm....I hate to say it but if the car has sat all that time and the metering head hasn't been rebuilt then it could possibly be contaminated..They don't like being sat around without being used.
There is a fine metal mesh inside which can become rusty and cause all sorts of issues...You could try what Grady has advised.
Over-fuelling could also be attributed to a leaking cold start injector...Fuel injectors leaking..Control pressure too high....Or the wrong rest pressure...This could be either the metering unit or the WUR.
Does it idle high when started from cold and then settle down to around 900rpm?
There is a fine metal mesh inside which can become rusty and cause all sorts of issues...You could try what Grady has advised.
Over-fuelling could also be attributed to a leaking cold start injector...Fuel injectors leaking..Control pressure too high....Or the wrong rest pressure...This could be either the metering unit or the WUR.
Does it idle high when started from cold and then settle down to around 900rpm?
The mechanic called me yesterday and said it was running well, did I want to take it home for the Christmas break to continue working on it. Car was full warmed up when I got there and behaved perfectly, so I now have her back in the garage at home, just a short (but fun) trip. First time she's moved under her own steam since 2006!
This morning, I Went to check Zig's comment about cold starting. Had to turn the car over for a good while before she caught after some energetic use of the throttle pedal. What actually is the correct cold start position for the throttle? Wide open? Partially open?
I think there's a fuel leak in the system somewhere which I will look for - based on smell of fuel in engine bay and time taken to start.
Ran very rough at first and I had to keep the revs up or she would die. After 5 minutes of this she had warmed up sufficiently that she would idle (900rpm). I haven't got her up to normal operating temp yet but if you blip the throttle, she revs and then cannot hold the idle and dies.
This morning, I Went to check Zig's comment about cold starting. Had to turn the car over for a good while before she caught after some energetic use of the throttle pedal. What actually is the correct cold start position for the throttle? Wide open? Partially open?
I think there's a fuel leak in the system somewhere which I will look for - based on smell of fuel in engine bay and time taken to start.
Ran very rough at first and I had to keep the revs up or she would die. After 5 minutes of this she had warmed up sufficiently that she would idle (900rpm). I haven't got her up to normal operating temp yet but if you blip the throttle, she revs and then cannot hold the idle and dies.
mark387mw said:
Ignition module. Any 2.8 Capris there to borrow one from?
I may have a spare somewhere...This just sounds like the adjustment on the metering head as when I was at Power engineering they fiddled with mine...Why I don't know and put it out and it wouldn't start..Reluctantly they confessed to touching it and after I adjusted it..Minimally I must add she started.Definitely check around all the plastic high pressure pipes for fuel leaks but please be careful, Have a fire extinguisher handy.
If you can run the fuel pump without cranking the engine then this would be better...I used to disconnect the green plug on the metering head so that position 1 on the key would operate it but I understand some didn't have this and the US spec cars were a different set up also.
Check the air intake for splits.
Has the throttle stop been touched?...
Something else that can effect the running is the inlet manifold leaking...You can test this by running the engine and removing the oil filler cap...Place the flat of your palm over the opening and if it gets sucked to the opening then the gasket is leaking.
The common weak point on these gaskets is the piece of cork around where the distributor sits...Normally a fair amount of silicone/Sealant is needed there.
I do empathise with you as I was in that place for a long time...Very frustrating and expensive but all that is elevated when the car finally is sorted and the fun begins....I hope its something obvious.
Regards
Ziga
Edited by mrzigazaga on Saturday 24th December 09:19
440Interceptor said:
.......Ran very rough at first and I had to keep the revs up or she would die. After 5 minutes of this she had warmed up sufficiently that she would idle (900rpm). I haven't got her up to normal operating temp yet but if you blip the throttle, she revs and then cannot hold the idle and dies.
I had this. It turned out to be the breather pipe from the oil filler cap to the rubber cover on top of the metering head had come adrift. I'd spent an hour fiddling with things and my neighbour popped round to see what I was doing. He looked at the engine and said "is this meant to be hanging off? 
Another random suggestion is to pull the back rubber cap off and make sure the air metering plate is clean. I've found some kind of gooey oil can collect there and (I guess) effects the weight. Makes it hard to start. Also a small shot of starter fluid can help get the air moving. Grady
Boxing day morning, went out to run through the list of kind suggestions and thinking of air leaks etc, tightened up every thing i could find. Then tried to start it.
She fired up immediately, settled into a nice idle and when revved drops back to the idle perfectly. Thanks Santa.
I found the fuel leak too, return line coming from the metering head. It's a barbed fitting and my rubber hose and jubilee clip aren't sealing properly.
v8s4me - I don't have a pipe going from the oil filler to the air flow sensor (rubber) cap. Instead, I have a separate aperture in the rocker cover, with hose running to the plenum. Achieves the same purpose I suppose,, so I've made sure they are all sealed up properly.
I did notice that the rubber cap itself while serviceable has a couple of small splits in the rubber. I'm guessing these are now unobtanium or is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
Next tasks are;
1. Hand brake not working - only one arm of the mechanism is moving when handbrake applied.
2. Get the bonnet to close - sitting a little proud at the moment and I can't see what its resting on - hope its not the throttle linkage.
3. Fit the side pods and the front spoiler.
4. Drill/cut holes for exhaust pipes in (new) rear valance and fit. Problem is it's already painted so I need to be very very careful.
5. Fuel gauge is reading full but I know there's only 20 litres in it, I put them there.
6. Replace P seal on leading edge of rear window hoop.
7. Trim the boot.
That should keep me out of mischief until the mechanic is back at work then they will:
1. Do 4 wheel alignment
2. Diagnose transmission noise when clutch released - probably the biggest worry at the moment.
Still - one step at a time...
She fired up immediately, settled into a nice idle and when revved drops back to the idle perfectly. Thanks Santa.
I found the fuel leak too, return line coming from the metering head. It's a barbed fitting and my rubber hose and jubilee clip aren't sealing properly.
v8s4me - I don't have a pipe going from the oil filler to the air flow sensor (rubber) cap. Instead, I have a separate aperture in the rocker cover, with hose running to the plenum. Achieves the same purpose I suppose,, so I've made sure they are all sealed up properly.
I did notice that the rubber cap itself while serviceable has a couple of small splits in the rubber. I'm guessing these are now unobtanium or is there anywhere I can get a replacement?
Next tasks are;
1. Hand brake not working - only one arm of the mechanism is moving when handbrake applied.
2. Get the bonnet to close - sitting a little proud at the moment and I can't see what its resting on - hope its not the throttle linkage.
3. Fit the side pods and the front spoiler.
4. Drill/cut holes for exhaust pipes in (new) rear valance and fit. Problem is it's already painted so I need to be very very careful.
5. Fuel gauge is reading full but I know there's only 20 litres in it, I put them there.
6. Replace P seal on leading edge of rear window hoop.
7. Trim the boot.
That should keep me out of mischief until the mechanic is back at work then they will:
1. Do 4 wheel alignment
2. Diagnose transmission noise when clutch released - probably the biggest worry at the moment.
Still - one step at a time...
440Interceptor said:
mark387mw said:
Ignition module. Any 2.8 Capris there to borrow one from?
Hey Mark thanks, what's your thinking behind this? Starting from cold would be fine but after running it'd be difficult to start. At the gas station it'd not want to start but give it 15 minutes or so it would be running no problem. An intermittent fault that cleared with a new ignition module.
Not to say yours is faulty but an easy fix if you can obtain one to try.
Hi Toby
Good news mate...Well done....
The rubber caps do come up from time to time...And periodical checking pays off...
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?...
I don't think I have a spare anywhere as I remember giving mine away..Ill check.
I do have an intake hose in good nick if needed.
You could seal up from the outside with a little silicone sealant as anything on the inside could potentially fall off and enter the sensor plate mech...
Ziga
Good news mate...Well done....
The rubber caps do come up from time to time...And periodical checking pays off...
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?...
I don't think I have a spare anywhere as I remember giving mine away..Ill check.
I do have an intake hose in good nick if needed.
You could seal up from the outside with a little silicone sealant as anything on the inside could potentially fall off and enter the sensor plate mech...
Ziga
Thanks Mark, Panther eh? nice!
Thanks also Zig, I put a silicone hose on mine, Can we 3D print these caps yet? Is there a part#?
Started her up this arvo and went for a sneaky drive around the block, misfired over 2k rpm and when I got it back to the house it wouldn't rev up at all and idled slower and slower until it died.
Fingers crossed it might be low on fuel as I don't know how long the mechanic had it running. I'll confirm that before I do anything else. I did pull out one plug and it was black and sooty. Hmmm.
!
Thanks also Zig, I put a silicone hose on mine, Can we 3D print these caps yet? Is there a part#?
Started her up this arvo and went for a sneaky drive around the block, misfired over 2k rpm and when I got it back to the house it wouldn't rev up at all and idled slower and slower until it died.
Fingers crossed it might be low on fuel as I don't know how long the mechanic had it running. I'll confirm that before I do anything else. I did pull out one plug and it was black and sooty. Hmmm.
!
440Interceptor said:
Thanks Mark, Panther eh? nice!
Thanks also Zig, I put a silicone hose on mine, Can we 3D print these caps yet? Is there a part#?
Started her up this arvo and went for a sneaky drive around the block, misfired over 2k rpm and when I got it back to the house it wouldn't rev up at all and idled slower and slower until it died.
Fingers crossed it might be low on fuel as I don't know how long the mechanic had it running. I'll confirm that before I do anything else. I did pull out one plug and it was black and sooty. Hmmm.
!
I'd pull a couple of plugs out and check the colour. You can then tell if its running too rich or too weak. It could be flooding??Thanks also Zig, I put a silicone hose on mine, Can we 3D print these caps yet? Is there a part#?
Started her up this arvo and went for a sneaky drive around the block, misfired over 2k rpm and when I got it back to the house it wouldn't rev up at all and idled slower and slower until it died.
Fingers crossed it might be low on fuel as I don't know how long the mechanic had it running. I'll confirm that before I do anything else. I did pull out one plug and it was black and sooty. Hmmm.
!
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