Repairable? Or am I looking for a donor body?
Discussion
KKson said:
I'd pull a couple of plugs out and check the colour. You can then tell if its running too rich or too weak. It could be flooding??
+1Check all the plugs....MFI is mechanical so shouldn't initially be flooding...Over-fuelling is possible if the metering head hex screw has been tampered with...Do you know if the garage touched this?
Leaking CSI could cause it..Incorrectly set metering unit/sensor plate...WUR faulty.
Check your sparks from each lead/Plug
I have a spare spark ignition module and a rubber cover for the sensor plate although it has had a repair if needed.
Regards
Ziga
Thanks Zig. It was out of fuel! I put some in today and we're back to running really nicely. Exhaust sounds great.
In answer to your question, yes the mechanic did adjust the mixture, so I'll try to drive it a bit then check the plugs and see if they clean up at all. Bit hard when its not licensed yet though...
Got the handbrake working in the meantime, result!
In answer to your question, yes the mechanic did adjust the mixture, so I'll try to drive it a bit then check the plugs and see if they clean up at all. Bit hard when its not licensed yet though...
Got the handbrake working in the meantime, result!
440Interceptor said:
Thanks Zig. It was out of fuel! I put some in today and we're back to running really nicely. Exhaust sounds great.
In answer to your question, yes the mechanic did adjust the mixture, so I'll try to drive it a bit then check the plugs and see if they clean up at all. Bit hard when its not licensed yet though...
Got the handbrake working in the meantime, result!
Happy new year mate...In answer to your question, yes the mechanic did adjust the mixture, so I'll try to drive it a bit then check the plugs and see if they clean up at all. Bit hard when its not licensed yet though...
Got the handbrake working in the meantime, result!
Setback.
I took the car to get the wheel alignment done prior to licensing it. Both rears are out and I need to add/remove washers on both trailing arm pivot bolts. Problem is, when I rebuilt it I used whole washers rather than ones with cutouts...
Than means the pin has to come out of the arm...
My mechanic will be doing this on his hoist but I wanted to check with you guys what needs to come apart in order to remove the pins? I'm hoping less than more...
Many thanks, Toby.
I took the car to get the wheel alignment done prior to licensing it. Both rears are out and I need to add/remove washers on both trailing arm pivot bolts. Problem is, when I rebuilt it I used whole washers rather than ones with cutouts...
Than means the pin has to come out of the arm...
My mechanic will be doing this on his hoist but I wanted to check with you guys what needs to come apart in order to remove the pins? I'm hoping less than more...
Many thanks, Toby.
You just need to undo the smaller nut on the inboard end of the pin*. Then slide it out to the point where you can remove the spacer you don't need. Be careful though as you withdraw the pin or they will all fall out! You don't need to know how I know this 
- Hopefully that one will undo and the larger one stay tight as you turn nut other wise the job becomes a little more complicated.
Edited by v8s4me on Tuesday 3rd January 19:04
v8s4me said:
You just need to undo the smaller nut on the inboard end of the pin*. Then slide it out to the point where you can remove the spacer you don't need. Be careful though as you withdraw the pin or they will all fall out! You don't need to know how I know this
Thanks, that's what I thought but I wanted some conformation from those in the know (theoretically of course). The Bush, pin, nuts and ahem, the washers are all new so with luck....- Hopefully that one will undo and the larger one stay tight as you turn nut other wise the job becomes a little more complicated.
Edited by v8s4me on Tuesday 3rd January 19:04
Adam, yeah, I know - rookie error. Felt a pratt in front of this suspension expert (car sent there by my mechanic). Mind you he did say the whole rear assemblies would have to come apart and it would be 3 hours labour.... In my defence I still have the old rusty washers that came of and none of them are C shaped. Live and learn.
Thanks guys.
440Interceptor said:
.... Mind you he did say the whole rear assemblies would have to come apart and it would be 3 hours labour.........
Only if everything is seized and knackered. There is only one adjustment on the rear (assuming it is the same trailing arm set-up as mine) and that is the toe in/out. This is set by adding/removing spacers on that pivot pin. It's as simple as that. An experienced suspension guy would probably be able to estimate what size spacer to fit/remove to get to the figure required and not have to spend too long messing about.This is my training arm pin ....
If yous is all new it should (hopefully!) be a piece of cake to drop out or slot in the require spacer. Remember, modern equipment is far more accurate than anything TVR had access to 40 years ago and I'd suggest there was quite lot of "tolerance" on the "factory settings". You can see it now....
Nobby: "'ere Bert we need another 3/16" spacer on this side, 'ave you got one over there?"
Bert: "Nah, you'll have to go to stores for some more"
Nobby: "Bu
er that, it's nearly home time".Bert: Just bolt it up then, it's near enough".
Yep, job done, the mechanic just pulled the pins out, removed and recut the washers into c profiles and it will go the the alignment guy as soon as I fix the next problem which has popped up....
Too much play in steering rack, caused we suspect by the disintegrated rubber bush that sits (or used to..) inside the rubber bellows on the passenger side. It basically crumbled when they inspected that side. It sits between the two sides of the rack which have differing diameters, if that makes sense..
Looks like I can get a reconditioned rack from Burton power for 70 quid plus shipping but I think all I need is that bush, IF its available separately..
That should be the last hurdle before getting her registered again.
Too much play in steering rack, caused we suspect by the disintegrated rubber bush that sits (or used to..) inside the rubber bellows on the passenger side. It basically crumbled when they inspected that side. It sits between the two sides of the rack which have differing diameters, if that makes sense..
Looks like I can get a reconditioned rack from Burton power for 70 quid plus shipping but I think all I need is that bush, IF its available separately..
That should be the last hurdle before getting her registered again.
Hi Toby,
Pretty sure the bushing that's toast on your rack is the same issue that I had. You get a knocking sound when you rock the steering wheel, much like when you have a bad tie rod or ball joint but it's not. It's a plastic bush that sits between the rack and the housing. It can be replaced.
I contacted Kiley Clinton in Birmingham as they had a positive feedback amongst the various threads on PH.
http://steering-racks.co.uk
Rodger at Kiley is great. I emailed him and he called me back the next day on his dime. I'm in the US.
He has the bushing which is just a couple of pounds, and full rebuild kits if so desired.
I ended up getting a complete new rack as the effort to rebuild or replace was the same. The rack has to come out either way. The price was 99 pounds plus shipping IIRC, which was around 70 pounds to the US. They ship via UPS and the rack arrived in about 4 days.
There are cheaper racks around but Rodger garranteed that nothing he sold was made in China. I think the rack I got was made in Italy or Turkey.
Pretty sure the bushing that's toast on your rack is the same issue that I had. You get a knocking sound when you rock the steering wheel, much like when you have a bad tie rod or ball joint but it's not. It's a plastic bush that sits between the rack and the housing. It can be replaced.
I contacted Kiley Clinton in Birmingham as they had a positive feedback amongst the various threads on PH.
http://steering-racks.co.uk
Rodger at Kiley is great. I emailed him and he called me back the next day on his dime. I'm in the US.
He has the bushing which is just a couple of pounds, and full rebuild kits if so desired.
I ended up getting a complete new rack as the effort to rebuild or replace was the same. The rack has to come out either way. The price was 99 pounds plus shipping IIRC, which was around 70 pounds to the US. They ship via UPS and the rack arrived in about 4 days.
There are cheaper racks around but Rodger garranteed that nothing he sold was made in China. I think the rack I got was made in Italy or Turkey.
Edited by GBinUSA on Thursday 5th January 16:46
Progress!
Rack is now sorted, 4 wheel alignment done and....the car went over the pits yesterday and passed!
I will post some photos this weekend but wanted to says thanks again to all of the contributors (shout out to Adam and Zig in particular) to this lengthy post which will hopefully assist others doing their first body off resto. If I can do it, so can you...
DH5872 is alive and well.
Rack is now sorted, 4 wheel alignment done and....the car went over the pits yesterday and passed!
I will post some photos this weekend but wanted to says thanks again to all of the contributors (shout out to Adam and Zig in particular) to this lengthy post which will hopefully assist others doing their first body off resto. If I can do it, so can you...
DH5872 is alive and well.
...
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