Any mechanics in Essex that actually know the Flapper lump?
Discussion
If it tries to start when you reconnect the cold start injector then suggest check the wire from the ignition amp to the ECU
Edit: white with black stripe into terminal 1 on the ECU .... probably. Gets cooked at the front of the engine as I recall
Edit: white with black stripe into terminal 1 on the ECU .... probably. Gets cooked at the front of the engine as I recall
Edited by V8 Fettler on Wednesday 16th April 20:08
Good progress. While you have the ECU out it is worth checking over the loom.
What I mean is make sure the ECU connector pin makes it to the relevant sensor connector terminal OK.
If you have a multimeter with a continuity buzzer this will make the job much easier.
The ones that really matter are: engine temp sensor (2 wires) TPS (three wires) and the AFM (5 or 6 wires) and the one from the ignition amp.
What I mean is make sure the ECU connector pin makes it to the relevant sensor connector terminal OK.
If you have a multimeter with a continuity buzzer this will make the job much easier.
The ones that really matter are: engine temp sensor (2 wires) TPS (three wires) and the AFM (5 or 6 wires) and the one from the ignition amp.
Hi Mate...Just a thought...I see you have Champion RN9YCN spark plugs???....Not sure if they are the right fitment but have you checked the gap...I know it sounds silly but if the gap is too big then you will get over fuelling..Mis-fire...Bad spark..Pre-ignition.....
I had NGK BPR5ES in mine and i was getting an intermittent mis-fire after 2000rpm, Especially when hot...I changed to NGK BPR6EIX...Iridium..They are expensive but i haven't had the mis-fire since...Bit of a stab in the dark but you never know...Cheers...Ziga
I had NGK BPR5ES in mine and i was getting an intermittent mis-fire after 2000rpm, Especially when hot...I changed to NGK BPR6EIX...Iridium..They are expensive but i haven't had the mis-fire since...Bit of a stab in the dark but you never know...Cheers...Ziga
0.8 or 0.9 won't make that much difference...
Try here for schematics: http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
Try here for schematics: http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
So fuel pressure gauge arrived - thanks Temple Tuning. Got mid 36psi by flicking the AFM flap on igniton.
Then after a few turns the car actually started! Not at all happy - stalled a few times.
Took this video after it had run for a couple of minutes - as you'll see it doesn't want to idle at all, just dies and it sounds like it's missing to me maybe?
http://youtu.be/K2SpoOCGLOI
Have heard Mowatts used to look after a 400se so am considering trailering down there and let them sort it
Then after a few turns the car actually started! Not at all happy - stalled a few times.
Took this video after it had run for a couple of minutes - as you'll see it doesn't want to idle at all, just dies and it sounds like it's missing to me maybe?
http://youtu.be/K2SpoOCGLOI
Have heard Mowatts used to look after a 400se so am considering trailering down there and let them sort it
Mmmm...Progress...Can you up the idle on the plenum, Sometimes the idle screw can actually become too loose and move about with vibration...As mine did..This was cured with a small rubber bung in there once the idle was set..I'd say you want it about 950rpm...Don't rev it too hard mate until normal operating temperature is achieved..This gives the oil chance to get round.
Is this with the new plugs in?..Ziga
PS: Sorry but some more silly questions..Is the air filter clean?...Is the flap moving smoothly if you push it gently with your finger?...
When you turn it off what does the fuel pressure hold at?...
Is this with the new plugs in?..Ziga
PS: Sorry but some more silly questions..Is the air filter clean?...Is the flap moving smoothly if you push it gently with your finger?...
When you turn it off what does the fuel pressure hold at?...
Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 17th April 18:34
OK so it starts and runs and apparently revs OK - what is the exhaust like when you rev it - clean or really black and sooty?
Mine won't idle from cold either so what happens if you keep it running on fast idle for 2-3 minutes and then will it idle OK? We need to see the temp gauge moving off the bottom really.
If we can get past the cold bit to warm running - then we can work on this bit, or if the problem is just cold idle, work on that after.
Mine won't idle from cold either so what happens if you keep it running on fast idle for 2-3 minutes and then will it idle OK? We need to see the temp gauge moving off the bottom really.
If we can get past the cold bit to warm running - then we can work on this bit, or if the problem is just cold idle, work on that after.
No fuel pressure with just ignition - pressing flap to switch fuel pump = 36 ish
Flap feels quite resistant to move from closed position - wondering if it's a bit sticky.
Perhaps I need to get hold of Maston and borrow Hallsies AFM and ECU for comparison.
I didn't rev from cold - it had already run and I'd held it at about 15000 to try and settle it. It did idle for a while then stalled.
Maybe an AFR gauge is the next step?
EDIT - @ Adam - exhaust was clean on reving - no clouds of black. Will attempt to get her warm tomorrow, check timing and report back
@Pwd95 - you think it's missing when it's reving?
Flap feels quite resistant to move from closed position - wondering if it's a bit sticky.
Perhaps I need to get hold of Maston and borrow Hallsies AFM and ECU for comparison.
I didn't rev from cold - it had already run and I'd held it at about 15000 to try and settle it. It did idle for a while then stalled.
Maybe an AFR gauge is the next step?
EDIT - @ Adam - exhaust was clean on reving - no clouds of black. Will attempt to get her warm tomorrow, check timing and report back
@Pwd95 - you think it's missing when it's reving?
Edited by smash on Thursday 17th April 19:19
Hi mate...You can clean the AFM with some brake & Clutch cleaner but be very gentle..You can spray it on a clean rag and wipe the opening out..And the flap surround...You can spray a little into the opening to clean it but don't do it with it upside-down ..You can hold the flap open with your finger from the other side which makes it easier...You can also spray a tiny amount of WD40 onto the pivot of the flap but its not condoned by everyone as it can attract dirt and make it worst.
Ohh err Zig!
Right-ho then it's not idling when warmish. Fuel pressure is normal (although when you stop it does the pressure drop quite quickly - might be a leaky injector).
As there's no big black smoke on revving then probably gross fuelling errors are ruled out.
So let's get the throttle set up next. First you may need to clean out the engine breathers because these upset the idle when they are blocked. Blow down the pipe that goes to the flame trap - it should "pressurise" but feel free then when you take your gob off the air should rush back out (warning - this may taste a bit nasty). If there is a restriction then clean out the pipe and the flame trap gauze.
Then blow down the metal pipe that this pipe fits onto on the throttle body - to make sure the gallery isn't blocked. This should flow air very easily into the back of the throttle.
Assuming this is all clear then set up the throttle gap - there's a spec for this. Then set up the throttle pot (is this 0.36V on throttle shut? - check the specs in vintagemodelaeroplane documents).
Aim for 800-850rpm idle unless you have PAS when you might want 950.
Right-ho then it's not idling when warmish. Fuel pressure is normal (although when you stop it does the pressure drop quite quickly - might be a leaky injector).
As there's no big black smoke on revving then probably gross fuelling errors are ruled out.
So let's get the throttle set up next. First you may need to clean out the engine breathers because these upset the idle when they are blocked. Blow down the pipe that goes to the flame trap - it should "pressurise" but feel free then when you take your gob off the air should rush back out (warning - this may taste a bit nasty). If there is a restriction then clean out the pipe and the flame trap gauze.
Then blow down the metal pipe that this pipe fits onto on the throttle body - to make sure the gallery isn't blocked. This should flow air very easily into the back of the throttle.
Assuming this is all clear then set up the throttle gap - there's a spec for this. Then set up the throttle pot (is this 0.36V on throttle shut? - check the specs in vintagemodelaeroplane documents).
Aim for 800-850rpm idle unless you have PAS when you might want 950.
@Adam - it wasn't warm, I just didn't rev it immediately from first start. Will get the temp up tomoz 
Fuel stayed nicely pressurised after stopping as witnessed by fuel pissing everywhere when I removed the pressure gauge and put the blank in!
Fuel stayed nicely pressurised after stopping as witnessed by fuel pissing everywhere when I removed the pressure gauge and put the blank in!Edited by smash on Thursday 17th April 21:30
Definitely missing. Basics first- Try to identify the non firing cylinders by pulling of leads one by one- change in engine note means cylinder good no change means that's a non firing one -and then work outward from there -
on each duff cylinder:-
Check for spark - dizzy ,dizzy cap, lead and plug
Check for fuel - is injector firing and injecting ?
After that check compression on affected cylinder/ cylinders it could be blown head gasket
If compression good then it may be valves stuck or not operating - bent , broken pushrods or valves
Good luck fella
Ron
on each duff cylinder:-
Check for spark - dizzy ,dizzy cap, lead and plug
Check for fuel - is injector firing and injecting ?
After that check compression on affected cylinder/ cylinders it could be blown head gasket
If compression good then it may be valves stuck or not operating - bent , broken pushrods or valves
Good luck fella
Ron
Edited by Rockettvr on Friday 18th April 10:16
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff