Any mechanics in Essex that actually know the Flapper lump?
Discussion
Well if there's been not much running then you could expect a bit of crud being spat out - normally it gets sucked back in and burnt.
Back to HJ2's checklist then - work through the things you haven't checked yet, pick the things that are easy and you don't have to spend out on and check them first.
If you can't get it to idle while working on it, get a piece of card and stick it between the throttle stop and the bit of metal the throttle cable pulls around - it will keep it cracked open a bit.
Back to HJ2's checklist then - work through the things you haven't checked yet, pick the things that are easy and you don't have to spend out on and check them first.
If you can't get it to idle while working on it, get a piece of card and stick it between the throttle stop and the bit of metal the throttle cable pulls around - it will keep it cracked open a bit.
I'm struggling to believe there are no garages in the south who know their way round a flapper V8! Joined the SD1 forum to see if they know of anyone.
May have lucked out tho as turns out there's a classic Land Rover club right on my doorstep - hopefully they may know someone I can get to look at it.
Meanwhile trying to negotiate a deal on an afm and ecu off a Rover Vitesse.
May have lucked out tho as turns out there's a classic Land Rover club right on my doorstep - hopefully they may know someone I can get to look at it.
Meanwhile trying to negotiate a deal on an afm and ecu off a Rover Vitesse.
adam quantrill said:
If you can't get it to idle while working on it, get a piece of card and stick it between the throttle stop and the bit of metal the throttle cable pulls around - it will keep it cracked open a bit.
This leads one to think that the idle air gallery may be blocked with carbon crud or the adjustment screw is fully home. For the record:
Average settings for a 350i:-
- Plenum Chamber Idle adjust - 5 or 6 turns out from fully home.
- Air Flow Meter Idle CO adjust - 2.5 turns out from fully home.
- Throttle Pot Sensor - 0.35 Volts with throttle closed.
- Throttle Pot Sensor - 4.3 Volts with throttle fully open.
- Fuel Pressure Regulator - 26 to 36 psi, not more, not less.
If and when you do fall in love with your car, there is a very informative Ops Manual Available
Another thought: some mechanical throttle set-ups came from a Range Rover classic model having a throttle stop adjust screw which is used to hold the throttle plate open a crack, usually about .002 to .003 inch, measured with a feeler gauge.
smash said:
This was cold, first start with new coil and back to magnecors - cold start injector connected:
http://youtu.be/nhNWTXxhzRY
That sounds like it's in the ballpark to me but missing at least two cylinders. Not misfiring: completely missing.http://youtu.be/nhNWTXxhzRY
Have you checked compressions?
Another cheap thing to check in that case - that all the plug leads are on the correct plugs according to the firing order - working around the dizzy clockwise viewed from the top. If two are swapped over it wouldn't like it.
Pulling one lead off at a time (as mentioned earlier) can help you find this sort of problem - if it makes no difference then it's suspect.
Pulling one lead off at a time (as mentioned earlier) can help you find this sort of problem - if it makes no difference then it's suspect.
adam quantrill said:
Another cheap thing to check in that case - that all the plug leads are on the correct plugs according to the firing order - working around the dizzy clockwise viewed from the top. If two are swapped over it wouldn't like it.
Pulling one lead off at a time (as mentioned earlier) can help you find this sort of problem - if it makes no difference then it's suspect.
= two cold exhaust headers.Pulling one lead off at a time (as mentioned earlier) can help you find this sort of problem - if it makes no difference then it's suspect.
OK so fingers crossed we're resolved.
In the end there were two issues: the idling issue which started the whole thing and then the misfiring issue which, it turns out, I was responsible for in my efforts to sort out the idling issue.
So the idling issue - gold star to Adam Quantrill - it was the nearside breather allowing the engine to pull air from via leaky rocker gasket and thus bypassing AFM so engine that flow was lower than it was. So fitting new rubber rocker gaskets cured the idle problem but I didn't know it because by that time I'd created another problem because I'd been changing leads, caps rotor arms etc. First off - do NOT bother with powerspark dizzy caps - they don't fit and are poorly molded.
Because I had the leads off to fit the new cap, fitted the leads and then couldn't get the cap on, took the cap off, went with new rotor and old cap, and then stuck new leads on but the king lead was too short and some of the leads themselves were too short. It didn't seem to make any difference so I swapped back to originals. After this I swapped out ECU and AFM (big thanks to Hallsie) neither of which made any difference. I also checked TPS and this was reading o volts when throttle shut at idle so adjusted for .35V although it only gets up to 3.7 volts fully open.
Checked timing and all good. Then I checked firing with inductive timing light which showed 3,5 and 8 were consistently misfiring. At this point I need to say a massive thank you to Chris - Jack Valiant for taking me back to the start and running me through things one by one offline. After I relayed I'd discovered 3,5 and 8 were missing and that swapping leads hadn't helped he rang me and just for the sake of double checking took me through firing order - I'm sure you're well ahead of me here - 3 & 5 had become reveresed during my messing.
Restart engine dile speed through the roof, adjust back a bit, smooth idle (thanks to Adam) and no missing. Check all leads with timing light and all firing consistently. reving responsively.
So there you are - the simplest of cures for the idle made more complicated by my attempts to fix it introducing another problem. Feel free to take the piss as required, lol!
In the end there were two issues: the idling issue which started the whole thing and then the misfiring issue which, it turns out, I was responsible for in my efforts to sort out the idling issue.
So the idling issue - gold star to Adam Quantrill - it was the nearside breather allowing the engine to pull air from via leaky rocker gasket and thus bypassing AFM so engine that flow was lower than it was. So fitting new rubber rocker gaskets cured the idle problem but I didn't know it because by that time I'd created another problem because I'd been changing leads, caps rotor arms etc. First off - do NOT bother with powerspark dizzy caps - they don't fit and are poorly molded.
Because I had the leads off to fit the new cap, fitted the leads and then couldn't get the cap on, took the cap off, went with new rotor and old cap, and then stuck new leads on but the king lead was too short and some of the leads themselves were too short. It didn't seem to make any difference so I swapped back to originals. After this I swapped out ECU and AFM (big thanks to Hallsie) neither of which made any difference. I also checked TPS and this was reading o volts when throttle shut at idle so adjusted for .35V although it only gets up to 3.7 volts fully open.
Checked timing and all good. Then I checked firing with inductive timing light which showed 3,5 and 8 were consistently misfiring. At this point I need to say a massive thank you to Chris - Jack Valiant for taking me back to the start and running me through things one by one offline. After I relayed I'd discovered 3,5 and 8 were missing and that swapping leads hadn't helped he rang me and just for the sake of double checking took me through firing order - I'm sure you're well ahead of me here - 3 & 5 had become reveresed during my messing.
Restart engine dile speed through the roof, adjust back a bit, smooth idle (thanks to Adam) and no missing. Check all leads with timing light and all firing consistently. reving responsively.
So there you are - the simplest of cures for the idle made more complicated by my attempts to fix it introducing another problem. Feel free to take the piss as required, lol!
Edited by smash on Wednesday 30th April 09:18
Edited by smash on Wednesday 30th April 09:20
Hi Mate...This is really great news..This is not a matter of laughing at anyone but more to the point of making a point that sometimes we can make matters worst when we are trying to fix them..Always start with the basics..Im surprised how simple the workings are for the V8, Albeit I'm still learning but i was put off by in the beginning of buying a V8 after reading all the threads about the problems with the efi set up...ECU and AFM...TPS and....But in actual fact as you say sometimes its through our own actions that we complicate the issue....Easily done though..Im guilty of that on some of the things on Delilah...
Hopefully you can start to enjoy the car again and maybe see you and the Wedge at this years Fest...Nice one...Ziga
(Edited to emphasise that there is no malice or derogatory intent intended to anyone reading this...)..
Hopefully you can start to enjoy the car again and maybe see you and the Wedge at this years Fest...Nice one...Ziga
(Edited to emphasise that there is no malice or derogatory intent intended to anyone reading this...)..
Edited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 30th April 14:03
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff