Any mechanics in Essex that actually know the Flapper lump?
Discussion
Guys please - let's not argue - just agree to disagree maybe. In the grand scheme of things the fuel pressure made no difference and as I haven't got a rolling road or AFR to check what's happening I'm gonna back it down to 38psi for time being.
I appreciate all input, I also hate this car! Actually I look at it for a few minutes after every time I take the cover off and think it is stunning - the hate comes after about 5 minutes of messing around again, lol!
So I have little time today but intend at some point to plug the plenum breather, run and check the firing of every plug with inductive timing light. Also get some rocker gaskets.
I appreciate all input, I also hate this car! Actually I look at it for a few minutes after every time I take the cover off and think it is stunning - the hate comes after about 5 minutes of messing around again, lol!
So I have little time today but intend at some point to plug the plenum breather, run and check the firing of every plug with inductive timing light. Also get some rocker gaskets.
- EDIT* I will genuinely happily pay anyone who can get it running right - name your price!
Edited by smash on Saturday 19th April 10:37
I lost interest ages ago! Anyways so today I ran it with the plenum breather plugged - idle speed definitely higher but still not happy.
Reducing fuel pressure to 38psi helped but still missing like a b
d. Checked spark on evens bank and all firing fine according to timing light. Didn't get to check odds side as it wouldn't idle long enough.
Looking very much like a fueling issue.
That said, look what came out the breather:
Although there is no real evidence of blown head gasket elsewhere - no mayo in filler cap and no irridescence in water. I haven't done compression test though.
Suspect if I pull the plugs they will be black again - wondering about trying lower fuel pressure than reg to see what happens.
Waiting to hear back from Maston to borrow ECU and AFM
Reducing fuel pressure to 38psi helped but still missing like a b
d. Checked spark on evens bank and all firing fine according to timing light. Didn't get to check odds side as it wouldn't idle long enough.Looking very much like a fueling issue.
That said, look what came out the breather:
Although there is no real evidence of blown head gasket elsewhere - no mayo in filler cap and no irridescence in water. I haven't done compression test though.
Suspect if I pull the plugs they will be black again - wondering about trying lower fuel pressure than reg to see what happens.
Waiting to hear back from Maston to borrow ECU and AFM
Edited by smash on Saturday 19th April 18:40
I'm struggling to believe there are no garages in the south who know their way round a flapper V8! Joined the SD1 forum to see if they know of anyone.
May have lucked out tho as turns out there's a classic Land Rover club right on my doorstep - hopefully they may know someone I can get to look at it.
Meanwhile trying to negotiate a deal on an afm and ecu off a Rover Vitesse.
May have lucked out tho as turns out there's a classic Land Rover club right on my doorstep - hopefully they may know someone I can get to look at it.
Meanwhile trying to negotiate a deal on an afm and ecu off a Rover Vitesse.
OK so fingers crossed we're resolved.
In the end there were two issues: the idling issue which started the whole thing and then the misfiring issue which, it turns out, I was responsible for in my efforts to sort out the idling issue.
So the idling issue - gold star to Adam Quantrill - it was the nearside breather allowing the engine to pull air from via leaky rocker gasket and thus bypassing AFM so engine that flow was lower than it was. So fitting new rubber rocker gaskets cured the idle problem but I didn't know it because by that time I'd created another problem because I'd been changing leads, caps rotor arms etc. First off - do NOT bother with powerspark dizzy caps - they don't fit and are poorly molded.
Because I had the leads off to fit the new cap, fitted the leads and then couldn't get the cap on, took the cap off, went with new rotor and old cap, and then stuck new leads on but the king lead was too short and some of the leads themselves were too short. It didn't seem to make any difference so I swapped back to originals. After this I swapped out ECU and AFM (big thanks to Hallsie) neither of which made any difference. I also checked TPS and this was reading o volts when throttle shut at idle so adjusted for .35V although it only gets up to 3.7 volts fully open.
Checked timing and all good. Then I checked firing with inductive timing light which showed 3,5 and 8 were consistently misfiring. At this point I need to say a massive thank you to Chris - Jack Valiant for taking me back to the start and running me through things one by one offline. After I relayed I'd discovered 3,5 and 8 were missing and that swapping leads hadn't helped he rang me and just for the sake of double checking took me through firing order - I'm sure you're well ahead of me here - 3 & 5 had become reveresed during my messing.
Restart engine dile speed through the roof, adjust back a bit, smooth idle (thanks to Adam) and no missing. Check all leads with timing light and all firing consistently. reving responsively.
So there you are - the simplest of cures for the idle made more complicated by my attempts to fix it introducing another problem. Feel free to take the piss as required, lol!
In the end there were two issues: the idling issue which started the whole thing and then the misfiring issue which, it turns out, I was responsible for in my efforts to sort out the idling issue.
So the idling issue - gold star to Adam Quantrill - it was the nearside breather allowing the engine to pull air from via leaky rocker gasket and thus bypassing AFM so engine that flow was lower than it was. So fitting new rubber rocker gaskets cured the idle problem but I didn't know it because by that time I'd created another problem because I'd been changing leads, caps rotor arms etc. First off - do NOT bother with powerspark dizzy caps - they don't fit and are poorly molded.
Because I had the leads off to fit the new cap, fitted the leads and then couldn't get the cap on, took the cap off, went with new rotor and old cap, and then stuck new leads on but the king lead was too short and some of the leads themselves were too short. It didn't seem to make any difference so I swapped back to originals. After this I swapped out ECU and AFM (big thanks to Hallsie) neither of which made any difference. I also checked TPS and this was reading o volts when throttle shut at idle so adjusted for .35V although it only gets up to 3.7 volts fully open.
Checked timing and all good. Then I checked firing with inductive timing light which showed 3,5 and 8 were consistently misfiring. At this point I need to say a massive thank you to Chris - Jack Valiant for taking me back to the start and running me through things one by one offline. After I relayed I'd discovered 3,5 and 8 were missing and that swapping leads hadn't helped he rang me and just for the sake of double checking took me through firing order - I'm sure you're well ahead of me here - 3 & 5 had become reveresed during my messing.
Restart engine dile speed through the roof, adjust back a bit, smooth idle (thanks to Adam) and no missing. Check all leads with timing light and all firing consistently. reving responsively.
So there you are - the simplest of cures for the idle made more complicated by my attempts to fix it introducing another problem. Feel free to take the piss as required, lol!
Edited by smash on Wednesday 30th April 09:18
Edited by smash on Wednesday 30th April 09:20
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