Another body off!
Discussion
Bizzare - none of the jag spares people or jag for that matter have the bearing seal retainer / dust shields in stock. Weirdly the part is in stock in the USA, maybe it's the Dana connection!
They even work out cheaper than the Cortina wishbone bolts which should have been diamond encrusted for what they cost!
They even work out cheaper than the Cortina wishbone bolts which should have been diamond encrusted for what they cost!
Flaming diff !!
Fitted the new pinion seal last night and the spiral spring around the rear of the seal popped off and no amount of fiddling would get it back on again, so £12 of brand new seal in the bin and an order off to SNG Barrat for another one which will hopefully arrive around the same time as the output seal dust covers !
I did however get the front tie bars, steering rack and EPAS pump put into place although I need to visit my local fixings supplier for some new nut's n bolts to hold it all together.
Fitted the new pinion seal last night and the spiral spring around the rear of the seal popped off and no amount of fiddling would get it back on again, so £12 of brand new seal in the bin and an order off to SNG Barrat for another one which will hopefully arrive around the same time as the output seal dust covers !
I did however get the front tie bars, steering rack and EPAS pump put into place although I need to visit my local fixings supplier for some new nut's n bolts to hold it all together.
Let battle commence...
Replaced both output shaft seals, plus dust covers, reassembled output shafts, fitted a (second) new pinion seal and got the whole lot bolted back together. Then swore a lot getting the 2 front lower diff bolts in as the lower mount fouls the bolts so you have to faff about to get them in anyway the result of lots of toil and swearing...
Hurray diff back in chassis !!
Anyone know what order the washers for the upper mount bushes go in ? Looking at the bible the large washer is between the diff Ali top mount and the bush but looking at the rust on the washers on my car the big washer must have been on top of the bush ?
Meanwhile around the front (avoiding the diff relate swearing at the back of the garage) the old man has been quite busy and got the rack and EPAS pump mounted
ARB and brackets etc. are going to the powder coaters and I need to find some longer M12 fine bottom ball-joint bolts as my usual supplier only had standard HT 8.8 grade but by the look of the (too short) ones supplied with the ball-joints they should be 10.9....
Replaced both output shaft seals, plus dust covers, reassembled output shafts, fitted a (second) new pinion seal and got the whole lot bolted back together. Then swore a lot getting the 2 front lower diff bolts in as the lower mount fouls the bolts so you have to faff about to get them in anyway the result of lots of toil and swearing...
Hurray diff back in chassis !!
Anyone know what order the washers for the upper mount bushes go in ? Looking at the bible the large washer is between the diff Ali top mount and the bush but looking at the rust on the washers on my car the big washer must have been on top of the bush ?
Meanwhile around the front (avoiding the diff relate swearing at the back of the garage) the old man has been quite busy and got the rack and EPAS pump mounted
ARB and brackets etc. are going to the powder coaters and I need to find some longer M12 fine bottom ball-joint bolts as my usual supplier only had standard HT 8.8 grade but by the look of the (too short) ones supplied with the ball-joints they should be 10.9....
There has been a bit of a delay since my last update as I've been busy with the rear suspension modifications...
First we tried this...
Which is actually worse than the standard tie bar as the 45 degree bar is trying to operate in a different arc which meant it changes in length by approx 4mm as the suspension went through it's operating range.. f
k - back to the drawing board or fag packet as it was in my case.
Having a few hours to while away on a flight I got my note book out and came up with this, basically it forms a compression strut from the A frame back to the chassis but as the pivot is in the same plane as the wishbone pivot it runs in the same arc.
Then after a bit of cutting, grinding etc...
NB : Comedy spare wheel is being used to check for play in "that bloody wheelbearing"
First we tried this...
Which is actually worse than the standard tie bar as the 45 degree bar is trying to operate in a different arc which meant it changes in length by approx 4mm as the suspension went through it's operating range.. f
k - back to the drawing board or fag packet as it was in my case.Having a few hours to while away on a flight I got my note book out and came up with this, basically it forms a compression strut from the A frame back to the chassis but as the pivot is in the same plane as the wishbone pivot it runs in the same arc.
Then after a bit of cutting, grinding etc...
NB : Comedy spare wheel is being used to check for play in "that bloody wheelbearing"
Hi Adam.
I'm trying to come up with something that doesn't tear itself to bits !
Previously the tie bars had solid nylon bushes fitted which resulted in the chassis mounting holes being elongated and the washers I welded over the holes also becoming elongated. So clearly the big rubber bush is needed to give compliance as the tie bar is operating in an arc while the upright is moving vertically, which begs a question as to if it needs that much compliance what is actually doing - other than rattling about under my arse !
I did consider the effect of the stock bar to counter act the rotational forces on the hub but looking at the geometry the bar was actually too low to make a huge amount of difference and my Mk1 modification rendered this useless anyway so as you suggest with the A frame Polybushed there is very little movement so the Mk2 option simply extends the wishbone.
I also noted Transmitter Man did an similar mod on his SEAC along with the Jag uprights and outboard brakes, maybe it doesn't work, nothing ventured nothing gained !!
I'm trying to come up with something that doesn't tear itself to bits !
Previously the tie bars had solid nylon bushes fitted which resulted in the chassis mounting holes being elongated and the washers I welded over the holes also becoming elongated. So clearly the big rubber bush is needed to give compliance as the tie bar is operating in an arc while the upright is moving vertically, which begs a question as to if it needs that much compliance what is actually doing - other than rattling about under my arse !
I did consider the effect of the stock bar to counter act the rotational forces on the hub but looking at the geometry the bar was actually too low to make a huge amount of difference and my Mk1 modification rendered this useless anyway so as you suggest with the A frame Polybushed there is very little movement so the Mk2 option simply extends the wishbone.
I also noted Transmitter Man did an similar mod on his SEAC along with the Jag uprights and outboard brakes, maybe it doesn't work, nothing ventured nothing gained !!
Cheers Phil,
Obviously I stole the concept from your car and I had wondered why there hadn't been an update for a while, I can't go back to the stock option anyway as the brackets went when I replaced the out riggers so the mk2 design has been honed and looks viable, over the operating range of the rear suspension the compression strut length Change is negligible so it won't tear itself to bits. I also have the option of replacing the outermost spherical bearing with a polybushed just in case it does need a bit more compliance.
I've just bought a house (with space for a 30m2 garage) so I have to get the wedge back together before we move as it's currently taking up my dad's garage, drive and a lock up so development will stop as we concentrate on getting her back together again.
Can I ask what length shocks you went for??
Obviously I stole the concept from your car and I had wondered why there hadn't been an update for a while, I can't go back to the stock option anyway as the brackets went when I replaced the out riggers so the mk2 design has been honed and looks viable, over the operating range of the rear suspension the compression strut length Change is negligible so it won't tear itself to bits. I also have the option of replacing the outermost spherical bearing with a polybushed just in case it does need a bit more compliance.
I've just bought a house (with space for a 30m2 garage) so I have to get the wedge back together before we move as it's currently taking up my dad's garage, drive and a lock up so development will stop as we concentrate on getting her back together again.
Can I ask what length shocks you went for??
Having escaped house purchasing paperwork for the day I got a few more jobs jobbed.
Completed the front brake lines (no pic..)
After the 3rd attempt I managed to get the correct nuts for the ARB / Tie bar mounts (1/4 UNF BTW...) completing the front suspension apart from the shocks.
I also got some longer 1/2" bolts so the shank passes through both chassis lugs and the polybush, a bit of messing about wondering why One a-frame didn't fit I eventually spotted we had them mixed up - Doh, Hub and drive shaft chucked on to measure up for the new coilovers.
Also made a dummy PAS hose from the original one and found that the Peugeot PAS pump has the same fitting as the rover one. Putting the pump in front of the rack makes a very neat install however we did have to remove some of the rubber from the PAS pump mount as it fouled the ARB, send pictures and dimensions off to get some custom hoses made.
Rear Calipers had been despatched to BiggRed for refurb, some M1144 rear pads and fitting pins are on order.
I just hope the guy at work has managed to get the glued in bearing out !
Completed the front brake lines (no pic..)
After the 3rd attempt I managed to get the correct nuts for the ARB / Tie bar mounts (1/4 UNF BTW...) completing the front suspension apart from the shocks.
I also got some longer 1/2" bolts so the shank passes through both chassis lugs and the polybush, a bit of messing about wondering why One a-frame didn't fit I eventually spotted we had them mixed up - Doh, Hub and drive shaft chucked on to measure up for the new coilovers.
Also made a dummy PAS hose from the original one and found that the Peugeot PAS pump has the same fitting as the rover one. Putting the pump in front of the rack makes a very neat install however we did have to remove some of the rubber from the PAS pump mount as it fouled the ARB, send pictures and dimensions off to get some custom hoses made.
Rear Calipers had been despatched to BiggRed for refurb, some M1144 rear pads and fitting pins are on order.
I just hope the guy at work has managed to get the glued in bearing out !
Edited by B@man on Sunday 22 March 17:45
matt-man said:
There was no way mine would go back in with the manifolds fitted....takes no time to fit them with no body on!
Same here, they are extremely close to the chassis so we decided for the sake of the powder coat to fit them once the engine was back in, Still much easier than trying to work on them with the body on.
Hi Stu,
I'm running MegaJolt 3D ignition only at the moment ( see here,) which is working alongside the 4CU instead of the "hopeless" system. The trigger wheel came from trigger-wheels.co.uk and is their standard RV8 32-1 offering, plus about 4 spacers if my memory serves me, I did get the rear of the PAS pump pulley machined off to make enough space. There are some pictures in the above link.
As I'm already running EDIS megasquirt is a relatively simple conversion
I'm running MegaJolt 3D ignition only at the moment ( see here,) which is working alongside the 4CU instead of the "hopeless" system. The trigger wheel came from trigger-wheels.co.uk and is their standard RV8 32-1 offering, plus about 4 spacers if my memory serves me, I did get the rear of the PAS pump pulley machined off to make enough space. There are some pictures in the above link.
As I'm already running EDIS megasquirt is a relatively simple conversion
Getting there...
Rear brakes back in, hydraulics completed.
After two attempts at painting and a bit of head scratching the prop was wiggled in.
Wideband boss welded into the nearside manifold and both manifolds fitted with stainless gaskets and those expensive bolts.
Finally I guess this means some plum has fitted the wrong water pump?
Rear brakes back in, hydraulics completed.
After two attempts at painting and a bit of head scratching the prop was wiggled in.
Wideband boss welded into the nearside manifold and both manifolds fitted with stainless gaskets and those expensive bolts.
Finally I guess this means some plum has fitted the wrong water pump?
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